can anyone help me make a folding rag top? Im not quite sure on how to make the hinges to make it fold back. Thanks for any help.

I can't imagine what it would take to make one functional, but I did a static 'open' one using Model Car Garage vinyl top material folded back on itself:

In 20+ years of modeling, I've never seen a real working rag top in scale. That would be a Gerald Wingrove kind of accomplishment. I'm sure it could be done, but I would never have the mental fortitude to see it through. I hope your have what it takes. Good luck.

I did a boatload of Yahoo/Google research when my '48 woodie was a WIP. I consider myself a reasonably proficient modeller but this would have been a VERY daunting effort, especially in 1/24 or 1/25. Not only are the hinges difficult, but there's a sliding bar that fits in a slot etc.

Even if you can get the mechanism to function, then comes the fabric top. I tossed the coin between using silk and an old umbrella. Making the folds to represent the seams, then gluing them (I was going to use contact cement, for flexibility) is an incredibly delicate task.

Let's assume you get the mechanism working and the top fabricated. Now you have to precisely attach the fabric to the framework so the mechanism is not distorted or affected by the fabric. Another tough job!

Having said all that, I'd love to see you do that. I'm still contemplating a fabric top, but only on a roadster (MG, Jaguar etc.) because those two-seaters have less complex tops.

Good luck on your effort!

I think I know how Im going to tackle it now. I was thinking in the wrong direction at first. I wanted to make hinges that folded and slid back, but I found an easier way.

Im just going to get either some I-beam or C channel and some round rod to go between the two. As for the material, I was going to use tape... but thats too thick. I think I may have some thin enough material to use. Once I get it started, I'll take some pics to show you guys how it was done.

Thanks for the reply's.

Here's one modeller's answer:

 

http://public.fotki.com/MrObsessive/projects-im-working-on/1964_gto_project/

 

Here is my solution to how i did a working ragtop.  Im sure there are better methods out there, and i am always looking for thinner materials......but this works for me. 

First of all...or course....cut the hole the size you want.

Then......take some evergreen strip and glue around all the edges......leaving some over hanging the edge a little bit........to make a track for the sliding ribs/bows/rods........inside and out.

The material i used was the kind you find in physical therapy/rehab places for doing excercises.  The color i used was the blue....its the thinnest (the color dictates the "strength" of the rubber, or thickness).

I then covered the rubber with masking tape to give it a textured vinyl look.  I also did this to hide the glue marks.........when you glue to rubber, it has a tendency to draw up on the opposite side.  I then colored the tape with a Sharpie marker.

Then i just use either.....rods or flat stock (in this case).........to slide back and forth in the channel you made around the opening.  You can make as many folds as you want depending on the size of the opening and how many rods you use.

Also, i find it easier to lay the masking tape on the rubber BEFORE you cut so you will get straight edges without stretching it.  And instead of having the top overlap the channels a little bit, i cut the rubber to the exact size of the opening.

 Here is an example i did on a truck with a sliding ragtop.

Here is the ragtop with the channels painted black.

You can see the channels it slides in real good here.

 

Nice looking top, Wolfangel.

I'm not sure, but it could be that Butcher might be looking for a more traditional top:

 

If you're talking about a traditional folding convertible top, to do that in 1/24-1/25 scale is next to impossible. In order for the top bows and framework to be "in scale" they would have to be incredibly delicate. Maybe it could be done with brass strips, but getting the whole thing to actually work and fold (and more than just once) without binding, bending or breaking seems to be an impossible task. The whole point of making an operating top would be to show people that it works, so it would have to be engineered to open and close many times over... almost impossible at such a small scale. And that's just the framework... then there's the problem of cutting and attaching the top to the framework. If you ever manage to make it work, post photos!

Harry did you not look at the link I posted?  it's been done with brass...... Go back in this thread and take a look.

 

Plymouth71, thanks for that link. It's not what im going for, but that helps out alot.

 Wolfangel, that really *** close to what im going for. Thanks for the tip and the pics. I was just going to go with a glass top, but that makes things much easier.

Thanks for all the post's guys.

plymouth71:

Harry did you not look at the link I posted?  it's been done with brass...... Go back in this thread and take a look.

 

plymouth71:

Harry did you not look at the link I posted?  it's been done with brass...... Go back in this thread and take a look.

 

I said it would be ALMOST impossible... for mere mortals, that is. Bill Geary is in the Gerald Wingrove league. 99% of modelers can't do what he does. Sure, it's POSSIBLE to inscribe the Lord's Prayer on the head of a pin...but how many of us can actually DO it???

Ok, i dont know who this Gerald Windgrove is, but that is freakin A-MA-ZING....