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Toggle Switches

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  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Ohio
Toggle Switches
Posted by 72MiuraSV on Sunday, June 20, 2010 2:57 PM

Does anyone know where I can get 1/24 or 1/25 toggle switches?

  • Member since
    August, 2005
  • From: Nashua, New Hampshire
Posted by mrmike on Sunday, June 20, 2010 3:50 PM

I am not aware of any toggle switches in that scale (not that they don't exist).  You may have to scratch build them.  Make a base plate for however many switches you need from a piece of sheet styrene.  Use a straight pin, the type as found on a new shirt, and cut off the pin head and then cut sections of the pin long enough to be glued into a hole drilled into the base plate.  Use caution as the pieces of pin will want to fly away when you cut then with a pair of cutters.  I hope this helps.

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  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Ohio
Posted by 72MiuraSV on Sunday, June 20, 2010 7:27 PM

thanks alot i will try that

  • Member since
    January, 2005
  • From: Cape Coral Florida
Posted by BigTallDad on Sunday, June 20, 2010 7:49 PM

mrmike

Use caution as the pieces of pin will want to fly away when you cut then with a pair of cutters. 

This also means the pieces may end up in your eye. Wear eye protection!!!!

"In order to teach a dog, you must first be smarter than the dog" P.R. Ferguson

  • Member since
    September, 2005
  • From: Greenville, SC
Posted by Mkowa PhD on Sunday, June 20, 2010 9:22 PM

...that's why I use plastic rod! You can cut them with an Xacto!

-Mike

* Please Note-I do not sell any of my built or unbuilt kits-Thank you.* Yes, I am a PROUD PARENT OF A U.S. MARINE! (currently-9-11-09-BACK in the USA!) http://s21.photobucket.com/albums/b262/mkowa/
  • Member since
    March, 2010
Posted by Kaleb on Sunday, June 20, 2010 10:52 PM

You could also use 32g wire with some type of small scale bolt for the attachment. Which you have brought a great idea to the table especially for drag and nascar.

  • Member since
    March, 2008
  • From: roanoke, va
Posted by 2ndtimer on Sunday, June 20, 2010 11:42 PM

Taped Shut

 

  • Member since
    October, 2010
Posted by bigmal0 on Saturday, October 30, 2010 3:40 PM
Try coiled solder. Flatten end in vice, use lithoplate on dash drill holes as required then glue solder 'switches' into place paint and adjust as required Cheers Tony
  • Member since
    May, 2008
  • From: South Florida, USA
Posted by roncomatic on Friday, November 05, 2010 3:28 PM

I agree with Mike. I use Plastruct round rod. It comes in extremely small diameters and is easily cut with an xacto knife. I usually make a base out of small gauge Plastruct half round rod and then glue the switch handles to that in various up/down positions.

--ron

 

Slices, dices, makes mounds of julienne fries!

  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Ohio
Posted by 72MiuraSV on Thursday, November 11, 2010 12:39 PM
lots of good ideas, this would be perfect for the tip of the month section in scale auto where they have color drawlings showing how to make different things. Would probabaly help alot of people.
  • Member since
    February, 2008
  • From: Hong Kong
Posted by Fumi on Thursday, November 25, 2010 3:52 AM

Sakatsu makes them:

http://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/sakatsu/500000003061.html

You can try to ask Rainbow Ten or Hobby Search to order them, they are listed "in stock" from Sakatsu's web site.

  • Member since
    January, 2011
Posted by wing_nut on Sunday, January 02, 2011 12:10 PM

Looking at the Sakatsu product... what about simulated hex bolts from www.scalehardware.com?  Bend the bolt a tiny bit to an angle and glue the bolts head in place on the panel.  Snip off the bolt to the length you need.  Or, a hex nut glued ot the panel with a piece of wire or plastic rod glued in place at an angle.

  • Member since
    November, 2010
Posted by under the hood on Wednesday, January 05, 2011 9:36 AM

for scratch build purposes...i use from (Beadalon) bead string wire from Micheals the wire is made out of tin or brass and the dimmension are .015x.024 so it is not round i cut about between .030 <.035 and glue it in a 45 degree in a downward position on a (mcg 2144)instrument panel from the kit here is a photo of it..... Sorry i try to get a better focus but because the part is so small it is grainner than most

http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n594/UNDERTHEHOOD/assembly1-1.jpg

John Clayton

  • Member since
    August, 2005
Posted by sjordan on Tuesday, February 08, 2011 12:45 PM

How about using tire valves? I suppose it depends on the type of switches you want.

  • Member since
    November, 2011
  • From: Omaha Nebraska
Posted by bad@$$bowtie573 on Thursday, February 28, 2013 6:41 AM
Or another thought take a left over tree cut a straight piece off it heat it up in the middle to the point it wants to bend than pull the two ends tell you reach your desired thickness then cut the length off you want and glue to the base plate
  • Member since
    September, 2010
  • From: The Mile High City
Posted by madmaxmachines on Saturday, March 30, 2013 7:21 AM

Here is how I do it:  

These are actually pretty simple to do;  I drill the desired number of holes into a strip of styrene. (It is easier to start with an extra long strip to aid handeling. I will cut it to length once fully painted.)  I then cut a thin sliver from a strip of styrene, and cut that into 3 pieces.  Each one is inserted into the hole and glued from the backside.  Then just position into an up/down orientation and let dry.

Next I have painted the plate in aluminum, and the switches in black.  I have found this is the easiest way to get the black circles at the base.

Then a little red on the levers, and presto: instant toggle switches.  Now I'll just cut off the excess strip.

"How the hell did you get all this together? It just happened, Max, you know? A piece from here and a piece from there."
  • Member since
    September, 2010
  • From: The Mile High City
Posted by madmaxmachines on Saturday, March 30, 2013 7:23 AM

Installed in dash:

"How the hell did you get all this together? It just happened, Max, you know? A piece from here and a piece from there."
  • Member since
    May, 2011
  • From: leominster ma . 01453
Posted by hemi hunter on Sunday, March 31, 2013 3:52 AM

nice idea . thankz for the how to great tip

  • Member since
    November, 2006
  • From: Lake Villa, IL
Posted by vwdave92 on Friday, April 12, 2013 7:36 AM

depending on what you are ultimately gluing the finished piece to - I like to leave the pin head on the pin then feed it through the back of the "base plate".  Makes for a stronger joint.

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  • Member since
    January, 2011
  • From: Toronto
Posted by Jonnogtv on Friday, April 18, 2014 3:01 PM

looking for something like this?

www.hlj.com/.../Aut

  • Member since
    December, 2003
  • From: Texas
Posted by rabidscoobie on Saturday, April 19, 2014 11:42 AM

Madmax's way is exactly the way I would do it.I have made hood pins that way,but I cant remember what i used for the base,too many years ago.

Some good ideas here to.

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  • Member since
    April, 2014
  • From: Los Angeles
Posted by BirdWatcher on Sunday, April 20, 2014 2:49 PM

I think the old Revell Pro Modeler Daytona kit had a photo etched fret with toggles,hood pins...etc.

  • Member since
    August, 2008
  • From: jacksonville fla
Posted by oldnslow on Wednesday, April 23, 2014 7:00 AM

Yes, it does, but they are only two dimensional, being on a flat fret.

Robert Lightsey

Lost in Paradise

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  • Member since
    April, 2014
  • From: Los Angeles
Posted by BirdWatcher on Thursday, April 24, 2014 7:45 PM

Dip the ends in thinned glue, wait to dry, then dip into thinned acrylic paint for some more dimension. problem solved!

  • Member since
    November, 2013
Posted by aspence5 on Tuesday, January 20, 2015 2:33 PM

I do the same thing, But I use tape! like masking or Tamiya, and I tape the Pin on the tape, then cut, won't go flying!  "wink"

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