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Is there a decent "smoke" paint for tinting windows?

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  • Member since
    November, 2003
Is there a decent "smoke" paint for tinting windows?
Posted by scalespeedworks on Wednesday, December 31, 2003 1:25 PM
I hate doing interiors and I'd rather "slightly" show it through tinted windows, rather than just blacking them out "slammer" style. I have no problems making side windows for kits that didn't come with any. I'm looking for a way to tint the glass dark enough, but not so dark so that you can tell that it does have an interior. Any tips?

Ron http://www.scalespeedworks.com http://public.fotki.com/lauron/rons/model_cars/
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, December 31, 2003 2:25 PM
yes its called Black out. Take Acrylic Tammya black and mix it with water and then paint it on. Best to do with air brush if ya can.
  • Member since
    November, 2003
  • From: Arroyo Grande, CA
Posted by MojoDoctor on Wednesday, December 31, 2003 4:16 PM
Tamiya makes an acrylic transparent paint called 'smoke' (X-19), and I use it with great success. I also use it for a wash that helps silver painted parts look like metal. Try it, you'll like it!

Matt Good judgement is the result of experience, Experience is the result of poor judgement. Mark Twain

  • Member since
    December, 2003
  • From: Right Here
Posted by vinnietbird on Thursday, January 01, 2004 5:29 PM
Model Master paints has a spray-on window tint.
"The HEMI turns on where everything else turns off"
  • Member since
    November, 2003
Posted by scalespeedworks on Friday, January 02, 2004 10:39 AM
Thanks, yet a few more things to add to my hobby-shopping list.
Ron http://www.scalespeedworks.com http://public.fotki.com/lauron/rons/model_cars/
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 02, 2004 4:25 PM
what always worked for me is this........

Put a very small amount of what ever colr paint you want the tint to be, say black, into a small container of FUTURE, then just DIP the glass in it, put it on a paper towl and cover it until dry...... make the mix light in color, and just dip until you get the desired tint...
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 06, 2004 2:27 PM
I recently sprayed some Tamiya smoke (X-19) onto an aircraft canopy to tint it. Worked quite well, but it took a few tries. Several thin layers build up will do the job quite nicely.

I like littlemoe's technique for using tinted Future. I tried it years ago and had mixed results. Now that I'm building some 'experience', I'm going to give it another try...

Murray
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 06, 2004 2:47 PM
just be warned, i have always used acrylic paints for tinting in future, and some colors don't mix as well as others, just experiment ....... you'l develope a 'feel' for it!!
  • Member since
    January, 2004
  • From: Westland Michigan
Posted by KRIS MORGAN on Tuesday, January 13, 2004 2:43 PM
One tip I have heard of 4 tinting but,Have never tried is this, Take RIT dye mix with water heat [DO NOT BRING TO A BOIL] on the stove, Then use a strainer to hold the glass in the water, Adjusting the time you hold the glass in the water&Your dye to water ratio shuold adjust depth of tint. Like I said I have never tried this I heard tip a long time ago & forgot about it until I read this.

Hockey players wear numbers because, they cannot always be identified by dental records. Lets go Red Wings!!

  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 13, 2004 8:41 PM
yes kris that does work i have tried it first time was a mastake as with a lot of first time stuff it was in Fine Scale Modler about two years ago i think. They said to bring the water to a boil and when it starts to boil turn the stove down and dip it into the water mix but dont leave it in very long at a time but to dip it several times to achive the darkness. I havent done this but twice the second time turned out ok but if i was going to try to tint windows i would consider some other method.
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, January 13, 2004 8:42 PM
you can also used film negatives
  • Member since
    January, 2004
Posted by vette_lover2004 on Wednesday, January 14, 2004 2:06 AM
Actually I have used the real thing. Tint I mean. Buy the stuff you do yourself at wal-mart. It is real easy to do and takes about 15 minutes max. Just keep everything wet to work with the film. The film is thin to start with and since model car windows are small the curvature doesn't make it bubble. I use 35% because anything like 20% or 5% is way too dark. Some people like that. You can still see inside and it looks real because it is real. Just follow all the instructions and you won't have a problem.
vette_lover2004@yahoo.com
  • Member since
    December, 2003
  • From: Minnesota
Posted by RIPLEY on Thursday, January 15, 2004 1:05 AM
BowWINDOW TINTING: I have been working on this now for about a month. I have tried everything, the Detailer, that looked great, but sometimes it fogs, i tried to airbrush the Detailer on but it did not work. Then i mixed some acrylic paint blue and just a little black, i then mixed it with water, i painted it on, WOW!,did this work, when i titlted the glass to let it dry, it left a perfect suntint on the top part of the windshield, it looked great. I have been experimenting with a touch of green, to get that very realistic look, like glass from the fiffties and early sixties, The only other method I have not tried is the flim negitive type, and i bet this doses look fantastic, but i worry about front windshilds and the rear glass, installation. I have heard of Future polish and using small amounts of acrylic paint. I will try this next and see how this works. RIPLEYAngel
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, January 15, 2004 6:00 PM
The few times I have tinted windows on car/truck models I have either used Tamiya Smoke(like Mojo mentioned) or Tamiya Black/Water(like Chas mentioned)....I have used the future tinting method for a lot of my AC canopies and it works great just havent tried it on Car/truck windows yet.

I have also used real live honest to goodness tint film before......worked great but I lost my source for free tint and I refuse to buy a roll(Yupp you can call me cheap!)to use just for car models as my modelling interest's vary greatly. I would think though a whole roll of "window tint" would last a very long time.....
  • Member since
    January, 2004
Posted by vette_lover2004 on Friday, January 16, 2004 12:04 AM
I happened to have a little left from when I did m 1:1 truck. It works well and you can buy a roll for 5 or 6 bucks.
vette_lover2004@yahoo.com
  • Member since
    January, 2004
  • From: Fairfield, Ohio
Posted by Drackopolis on Friday, January 16, 2004 6:57 AM
I'm a flat black paint on the back side of the glass, man...

It's really cool to strive for realism here, but on a scale auto i have found that even the ligthest of tint will turn out darker due to the small space in the interiors of a scale vehicle.

I guess what i'm saying here is, if you want tint, just go with what works for you. I have never been able to see through un-tinted scale glass all that well, so tinting it will only increase that difficulty.
But that's just me, so i just go for the best glossy appearance possible and live with it, lol.

The whole Future thing still amazes me. i just can't see that working as a clear top coat...
Rev. James D. Baker www.bakerministries.org
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 16, 2004 7:03 AM
QUOTE: I lost my source for free tint and I refuse to buy a roll(Yupp you can call me cheap!)

ok your cheap
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 16, 2004 12:46 PM
LMAO I knew someone was gonna say it. Of course I did ask for it didn't I?

Actually I had a friend who owned a Car Audio shop but they also tinted windows, well to many "small" shops were popping up everywhere undercutting him, though they were using inferior products so he got out of the tinting side of things and focuses soley on Audio/Video for auto's.

Loved the Lumar(?)film though very easy to work with.....No he didnt give me a whole roll as that stuff isnt cheap but when I stopped by on occasion he would give me a "lil" square which was more than enough to do 3 or 4 kits.....
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 16, 2004 6:34 PM
ive used a clear laquer mixed with a couple of drops of paint before, nice thin layers and it comes out a treat, i think i read it in scale auto from that Juha fella.
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, January 16, 2004 10:13 PM
What about Juha Airio's story in the magazine, October 2001. In that story he tells pretty much everything one would need to know about dealing with "glass". I know its an old issue but somebody around you might have it. Just a thought
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, January 21, 2004 4:30 AM
What I have done, and it worked PERFECTLY, is too get yourself a wide soft brush that wont shed of course, and get yourself some paint ( any color will do) and thin the paint alot, more than what you would use to thin an air brush....Anyway, then jsut paint it on in light light coats untill its dark or light enough. Jsut allow time for hte coats to dry first so you dont move the paint around. I did this with yellow paint and it worked so good.

  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, February 02, 2004 11:21 AM
Pactra makes spray on tint in a 3oz. rattlecan. Its mainly used for RC bodies, but will work on clear styrene just as well. Just have to remember to mist in on in light coats and wait for it to completely dry inbetween, otherwise you'll get runs, orange peel, and/or uneven surfaces.
  • Member since
    January, 2004
  • From: East Tennessee, Hillbilly Country
Posted by crzyhorse on Sunday, February 08, 2004 2:23 PM
I'm lucky enough to have a roll of 3M tinted "scotch" tape I pirated at work. I don't know what it's actual use is but I love it for tinting windows.
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, February 10, 2004 5:55 PM
I use a mixture of Tamiya Clear and tamiya gloss black. I sprayed it on the inside of the window. A little experimentation may get the desired reults you are looking for. Test some scrap first. add more black/clear as needed. Oh yeah, almost forgot, i mask the front of the window off before painting the inside. If you get any overspray, you can remove it by using Novus #2.
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, February 13, 2004 12:03 AM
testors makes a awesome rattle can window tint
  • Member since
    December, 2003
  • From: Northeast Ohio
Posted by papi62596 on Saturday, March 27, 2004 7:14 PM
I have used food coloring with Future with good success. Just lay it on a paper towel until it is dry. you can dip it several times to get a darker effect if you want.

Later- Nelson (Papi)
Nelson Lorain, Ohio http://public.fotki.com/papi62596/ http://public.fotki.com/drasticplasticsmcc/1/nelson_fontanezs/
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, May 22, 2004 2:07 PM
Try Window Shades II From premiere hobby products there's alot of colors and there's a detailed instruction sheet to tell you how to airbrush or brush-on the tint and they ever will tell you how to remove it when you screw up email wcarr76009@aol.com
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, May 22, 2004 3:00 PM
another thing that will work and is easy is talk a local auto window tinter into saving you scraps of waste material too small for them to use but more than large enough for model windows...

its thin enought not to be detectable but will accomplish tint effect quick and easy too.

Walt

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