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Decal dilemma.......

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  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Collingwood, Ontario, CANADA
Decal dilemma.......
Posted by Skelly on Wednesday, June 3, 2020 6:44 PM

Howdy from the great white north!!

Maybe it's just me, but lately, I've been having horrible luck applying decals. Mostly the big ones! My latest problem is trying to locate (move around) the decal once it slides off the paper. The decal wants to stay right there and refuses to move. Ive tried to add water to the body before applying the decal, but it just beads off. So, I'm wondering if I were to use something to break down the water's surface tension, like dish soap to allow the decal to "slide". Anyone have any suggestions?

 Skelly 

SKELLY

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by 195X on Wednesday, June 3, 2020 7:25 PM

Well for one, if the water beads, it sounds as though you're putting them over a wax job? Either way, I have heard of folk using a drop of dishwashing liquid but, never tried it m'self. Micro scale has a great line of decal setting solutions. I usually start with a drop in my soak water, then brush on after the decal has been positioned. Sounds like your body is nice and slick. Try this, use a big brush. Not like blush brush big but a larger one that will wick up a deent amount of water. Use the bristles to push under the edge of the decal and force water under it. I always go in the side that's the direction it needs to slide. I hope some of my blather works for you. :)

 

P.S. You never said (or I missed it) how the Gorrilla glue is working out for you?

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by 195X on Wednesday, June 3, 2020 7:27 PM

And since I always forget... if you use a setting solution (Testors has one a tad weaker than Micro Sol) try some on a scrap or extra decal from the sheet first to make sure it doesn't get eaten.

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Nova Scotia
Posted by Bainford on Thursday, June 4, 2020 10:57 AM

I have heard of people using a drop if dish soap in the decal water to break down surface tension, but never tried it myself. It may well work for this problem.

Decal solutions may help. Decal setting solution and decal solvent are two different things, and are frequently confused with each other, but they do very different things. Decal setting solution, such as Microset, prepares the surface for decal application, and sounds like a possible solution for your issue. Use a brush to apply liberally to the area where the decal will be applied, and apply more once the decal is on the body to help it slide around. However, I would think that the stuff may still bead up.

Decal solvent, such as Microsol, is used once the decal is in place to soften the decal to allow it to conform to compound curves and surface irregularities. Heavy application of this stuff can causet he decal to become weak, so go carefully. The decal may also swell up. If so, get it carefully into place then leave it until dry. It will shrink back when it dries, and conform well to the surface features.

Several brands are available, such as the Microscale products mentioned above. Testors and Walthers also make some, and Tamiya makes decal solvent (called Mark Fit) in two different strengths.

"It would be unusual, if the unusual didn't occur."

- Steamboat Gariepy

Trevor

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by 195X on Thursday, June 4, 2020 11:51 AM

Tamiya is good too. I would say their weaker solution is akin to testors, while the stronger would be closer to micro sol. Would you agree Bainford?

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Collingwood, Ontario, CANADA
Posted by Skelly on Thursday, June 4, 2020 2:35 PM

Hey, guys!

Thanx for the advice, looks like I'll give the Testors, Tamiya, and Micro-Sol solutions a try. 
Occurred to me last night at 3:00 AM, (couldn't sleep!), to try the soap trick with some scrap bodies and left over decals in my ever increasing stash. Failing that experiment, I'll order the other items... then wait for a month for them to arrive!
By the way, the Gorilla Glue worked great!!

 Skelly 

SKELLY

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by 195X on Thursday, June 4, 2020 6:28 PM

Excellent! I was thinking more about this, and this is what I came up with, and this is just my perspective.

Just as with testing paints, I say save some of the nicer ones for just this issue. Most decal sheets have a nice long, useless decal that calls out the company and kit #/name. Cut this into three equal lengths and use it on the spoons, to see how hot a grade of setting solution it can handle. This way, never ruin a necessary decal again because of setting solution.To my thinking they would go weakest to hottest, Testors, Micro SET, , Tamiya and Micro Sol. I put Micro Sol as the hottest because it's actually what it's name implies, it's a decal solvent and can actually be used to remove old, cracked decals without harming paint. (Use liberally)

P.S. Don't freak out when the first decal you try wrinkles up like the dickens, it's supposed to and ohhh... 90% (?) straighten out, flatten down and basically become one with the paint.

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Collingwood, Ontario, CANADA
Posted by Skelly on Friday, June 5, 2020 9:26 PM

Thanx for the advice, 195X. I'll try some of that tomorrow... was driving for 14 hours today and I'm pooped. Wife says tomorrow is MINE... YAHOO!!!

Skelly 

SKELLY

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Collingwood, Ontario, CANADA
Posted by Skelly on Monday, June 15, 2020 1:51 PM

Hi, all!

Well, I never got out of the house to get the decal solutions, but I DID try my hand at using a drop of soap to slide the decal around. It worked! Very nicely, too. Gave me lots of time to align the decal, which REALLY helped, because the decals were breaking apart and needed to be "jigsaw puzzled" back together once on the car.!!! I can't win. 
Thanks for all your input, great bunch of guys. Stay healthy.

 Skelly 

SKELLY

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Nova Scotia
Posted by Bainford on Tuesday, June 16, 2020 10:39 AM

Ah yes, the dreaded jigsaw decals. Microscale makes a product to deal with that as well, called Liquid Decal Film. If you have a sheet of decals, especially older decals, that you think may break apart in the water, spray a couple coats of this stuff on the decal sheet and let it dry. Then cut apart and use normally.

I don't have a lot of personal experiance with this stuff, but many others have had good luck with it. There are other makers of a similar product as well. I think Testors may have made something similar.

"It would be unusual, if the unusual didn't occur."

- Steamboat Gariepy

Trevor

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Collingwood, Ontario, CANADA
Posted by Skelly on Tuesday, June 16, 2020 10:48 AM

Hey, Bainford!

 I have run into this problem a lot lately, especially with aftermarket decal sheets. If I suspect a problem, I'll spray the entire sheet with several coats of clear. The downside to this, is if the carrier is only around the image, and not on the entire sheet, you would have to cut the decal out VERY close to the image because the clear spray will not release from the sheet. If you miss one small spot.... torn decal.

 Skelly 

SKELLY

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