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creating a barrier for changing color from body

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  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: CA Gold Country foothills.
creating a barrier for changing color from body
Posted by mishalah on Saturday, February 1, 2020 7:12 AM

I'm not having any luck with the search function so I'm going to ask straight up. 

I have several red plastic 1/12 scale cars that will need to be painted other colors.  The target one right now is a Fujimi Nissan Skyline GT-R Taisan/STP version that I want to paint the yellow that the PENNZOIL Champion car used.  It's not actual PENNZOIL yellow, but a little lighter.  I want to avoid the dreaded bleed through of the red that affects the yellow. 

 

I need to know what is the best barrier colors to use to stop the red from coming back.  I have thought of spraying the entire car black primer, then going to gray primer, then maybe a white primer before any yellow color coats.  UNLESS there is a specific primer or barrier paint to stop the bleed through. 

 

Your advice is much appreciated.  I'm gonna repeat this question up above because most people don't look down here in the paint/body section. 

Thanks

"Help me....I've fallen and I can't get up."...my models are crushing me. my pics: https://public.fotki.com/dallas916/

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Nashua, New Hampshire
Posted by mrmike on Saturday, February 1, 2020 7:36 AM

I have heard of two possible blockers.  One is flat black and the other is silver.  I am more inclined to think that flat black would be the better color blocker than silver.  

"That's Spenser with an 'S' like the poet."

Robert Urich Spenser For Hire 1985

Classic Plastic Model Club

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: CA Gold Country foothills.
Posted by mishalah on Saturday, February 1, 2020 7:45 AM
thank you

"Help me....I've fallen and I can't get up."...my models are crushing me. my pics: https://public.fotki.com/dallas916/

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Nova Scotia
Posted by Bainford on Monday, February 3, 2020 7:27 AM

Some people swear by Zinsser BIN, a shellac based sealer. Apparently it forms an effective barrier against red pigment bleed, though I have no experience with the stuff myself.

"It would be unusual, if the unusual didn't occur."

- Steamboat Gariepy

Trevor

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Midwest
Posted by High octane on Monday, February 3, 2020 9:48 AM

Colored plastic bodies are "no sweat" for me. after washing the plastic and drying it I spray Tamiya Silver Leaf, then my primer, and then my color and clear coats and it works great for me. Try it!

High octane

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: CA Gold Country foothills.
Posted by mishalah on Thursday, July 23, 2020 6:40 PM

High octane

Colored plastic bodies are "no sweat" for me. after washing the plastic and drying it I spray Tamiya Silver Leaf, then my primer, and then my color and clear coats and it works great for me. Try it!

 

;  Thanks.  While that project is waiting I am doing some body prep and removing all the Z/28 emblems from two 1/12 scale monogram 1969 Camaros.  One will painted white, and one will be either bright yellow or that interesting but rare gold they put on a few YENKO Camaros that year. 

 

Obviously, color bleed on such a large car is a serious concern.  I like your idea of the silver, then primer, then color.  I did try some Krylon Fusion white on the underside of some parts on the tree, and after 3 wet coats the orange still could be seen.  I have been told to use a primer SEALER, so In bought a can of gray Dupli-Color sealer at O'Reilleys.  But now, I'm not sure what primer I should use.  I like Duplicolor, but I was trying to start with a white primer, and cannot find it or the sealer in white.  There are so many primers and dual purpose paint/primer combinations on the shelves it gets overwhelming. 

 

So, I brought home some Rust-Oleum 2X flat white prrimer, and some Rust-O BONDING primer.  Ok, so more confused.  Not sure I need "bonding" primer for a plastic model.  The "2X" is apparently thicker.  My issue with both is that they are full of Ketones, Acetone, and Toluene, and methyl isobutyl.  That's strong stuff.  The 2X instructions say that on PLASTICS maximum adhesion is in 5-7 days.  Yeah, 5-7 days.  They must be talking about outdoor plastic furniture.  BUT, IT'S WHITE! 

 

So, maybe go back to a simple WalMart white sandable primer (if available, because WM seems to only have R.O. and Krylon on their shelves) OR, the trusted duplicolor gray primer.  ???  Then, I'd be at gray + gray + selected color (white or yellow or gold).  That's a lot of coats dimishing the details and panel lines.  :(

"Help me....I've fallen and I can't get up."...my models are crushing me. my pics: https://public.fotki.com/dallas916/

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