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Body work and painting order

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  • Member since
    November 2019
Body work and painting order
Posted by Yellow GTX on Sunday, November 10, 2019 7:51 AM

Still trying to get this right. Please help

 

after prime

 

paint 2-3 applications

novus to take out scratchiest parts and smoot 

clear caot with windows in

buff

 

polish

wax

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by 195X on Sunday, November 10, 2019 12:43 PM

I would not recommend clear coating with the windows in. Too many ways it can go wrong. Best bet is to coat the windows with futureshine and set them aside until the body is buffed out.

If your primer base is good, sanding and buffing will be minimal on the final coat only.

 

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

  • Member since
    November 2019
Posted by Yellow GTX on Sunday, November 10, 2019 11:22 PM

Are these the right steps do you use Novus after paint or clear.  Do you add decals over clear and then add another layer of clear.

 

when do you wet sand

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by 195X on Monday, November 11, 2019 10:38 AM

1. Prep the bare body and prime/prep the primer.

2. Inspect for any imperfections in the surface, reprime if necessary.

3. Mist color coat, mist color coat, wet color coat. 

At this point I'm usually ready for gloss. I'll never sand the top color coat unless there's an issue. Any dust or orange peel is taken care of at this point though. If I no longer have complete coverage at this point another two coats. One mist over the thinned area, one wet over all.

4. WASH the cured body, air dry, rub down with an old t-shirt. (The T will be dry) This removes any residue and water droplets from the washing.

5. Satisfied with my paint, I clear coat. More often than not with automotive (I love Duplicolor!) clear. My offhand go-to is Tamiya clear. This is not to say those clears are compatible with ALL paints, but most. 

Same process as the paint. Mist, mist, wet.

A lot of times (You'll experience this as you progress) No polishing is needed after the final gloss. If it is, break out the polishing kit and follow it's instruction to the T. 

6. With the gloss coat finished, I will do my decal work. I use micro-scale setting solutions. 99 percent of the time, I don't clear over my decals, especially if they have white on them (They will yellow over time with the wrong clear). First off, a properly done decal does NOT need a clearcoat, but there are those that insist they do for protection. I had models I gave away not long ago that had been on the shelf 30 years without a decal issue and beleive me, they got handled a lot.

As for Novus. Great stuff but, it's a plastic polish, not a paint polish. Depending on your paint, choose a polish that's compatible with that particular paint. If you use automotive clear you can do no better than Mother's car polish, followed by McGuiar's No 7. (Yes they're a tad pricey but, they last forever)

If you insist on clear coating over decals, use Futureshine and do one coat. You'll never need to worry about polishing that car again.

I've noticed over the years futureshine is actually dust repellant and, when you do get dust on them, cleanup is as easy as grabbing a polishing cloth and wiping it down.

For the best possible polishing cloth grab an eyeglass polish cloth from any vision care store.

I think that's it. (?)

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by 195X on Monday, November 11, 2019 10:44 AM

Whoops! "Wet" sanding: Wet sanding is done because the water helps lubricate with sanding and washing off the sanded trash. Any sanding I mentioned above (At any point in the process) is wet sanding. You can dry sand without issue but, it requires another wash and rub afterward. Dry sanding you will notice, ruins the sand paper by clogging it with trash from the paint and leaves particles all over the car, NOT just where you sanded. Wash again, dry and rub with a clean dry rag.

Even if you do wet sand, always make sure the car is well rinsed and rubbed afterward.

Finally, and I can't stress this enough, if you don't wear gloves wash your hands every time you go to handle the model. Your wors enemy in the entire process is... skin oils! ;)

KEEP IN MIND... this is just one addled mind's way of doing things and may not work perfectly for someone else. Hang tight and I'm sure there will be more methods presented here. There's a lot of talent on this board and they all have their varying techniques for certain things so, you'll have to take what you feel is the best advice and build your skill base, practicing those methods.

Just starting out? Beleive me... you're about to have a blast!

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

  • Member since
    November 2019
Posted by Yellow GTX on Monday, November 11, 2019 7:12 PM

Thank you for the detail infomation.  I just ruined the hood of my challenger by using Novus directly on the paint lol.  I’ll just sand and re-paint.  I got to the point where I was stuck on what to do next. This clears it up..

 

best of luck

 

Rich

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by 195X on Thursday, November 14, 2019 10:21 AM

Photos not showing up. Can I assume you want to go from air grabber to flat? If so, the hood you seek can be found on ebay. I made some a couple years back but I'm pretty sure the mo;d is trashed.

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

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