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Decal help

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DDD
  • Member since
    March, 2019
Decal help
Posted by DDD on Tuesday, April 02, 2019 9:35 PM

I'm building a 39 wagon rod which has wood grain impressions. My ? is can I apply decals directly to the bare body? or do they have to have some kind of primer/paint laid down 1st? I would like to tape those sections off before primer and paint so I will not loose the grain affect by covering them over with primer. I don't want the decals to look like a brown stripe, any suggestions?

  • Member since
    January, 2017
Posted by 195X on Tuesday, April 02, 2019 10:58 PM

DDD

I'm building a 39 wagon rod which has wood grain impressions. My ? is can I apply decals directly to the bare body? or do they have to have some kind of primer/paint laid down 1st? I would like to tape those sections off before primer and paint so I will not loose the grain affect by covering them over with primer. I don't want the decals to look like a brown stripe, any suggestions?

 

You never want to lay decals over bare plastic. They'll lift within a year or two, likely on a hot day. I going to take a short leap here and guess you're talking about wood grain decals.

For best adherance and to protect your surface you can mask before primer. When you're ready, mask the area the decals are to go on and give them a mist coat or two of a gloss paint designed for styrene. Let it cure for at least a week. Your grain should be intact and show well after your decal is applied.

Please note, most decals are translucent to an extent by nature. When choosing your base paint, I suggest a wood color. Not a brown like you're thinking, but a light color like pine or chamomile as a base. Any beige or light tan to simulate the color of raw wood. This will make the wood decal pop and won't create an off color like white or gloss black would do. Hope this helps.

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

  • Member since
    January, 2017
Posted by 195X on Tuesday, April 02, 2019 11:00 PM

As an aside, you'll definitely want to use a decal setting solution if you want to pick up all the detail AND get the decal to lay flat.

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

DDD
  • Member since
    March, 2019
Posted by DDD on Wednesday, April 03, 2019 10:15 AM

Thanks 195X, yes they are wood grain decals but, the rasied grain affect is in the body where the decals are to be laid. Wouldn't the gloss paint be thicker then the primer? and fill in those rasied areas and make it smooth were the decals wont sink down using micro set/sol.

  • Member since
    January, 2017
Posted by 195X on Wednesday, April 03, 2019 11:16 AM

I can't see or feel the depth of the grain you're talking about but no. We're talking about mist coats here. Even a straight, wet coat when dry, is only microns thick. This is how they get away with casting the script to the body yet it can still be seen clearly after painting. :)

Either way, you gotta bite the bullet and try. Set your paint can in a sink of warm water for about five minutes before spraying. This will loosen the paint up more and you'll feel the can cool in your hand as you shake it. It should help you get a good, thin coat.

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

DDD
  • Member since
    March, 2019
Posted by DDD on Wednesday, April 03, 2019 12:41 PM

Thanks for the tip 195X, I'll give it a try. Later.

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