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Using Testors Metalizer Sprays?

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  • Member since
    October, 2011
Using Testors Metalizer Sprays?
Posted by OrangeR/T on Monday, June 25, 2018 2:01 PM

I picked up a can of Testors Buffing Metalizer laqcuer spray, i've never used their metalizer paints before but i see them used in articals all the time. My question is, do they have to be clear coated?? It says to use Non-buffing Metalizer Sealer over the paint, but the store didn't have any. Will plain old Testors clear laqcuer work with light mist coats? Is the clear even nescisary?? Does the stuff mare up easy with finger prints whne assembling the model? I was gonna do the exuast system on the GTX i'm working on. Thanks for any help!!

  • Member since
    March, 2012
Posted by AstroDad on Monday, June 25, 2018 2:35 PM

Hi OrangeR/T

I use the Metallizers frequently (both buffing and nonbuffing varities). I would suggest NOT using the sealer or clear over the Metallizer as it kinda messes up the metal effect of the paint.  For the buffing varieties after buffing, most of them are pretty stable, but not super durable to handling.  So for example if you use it on the an engine or exhaust system that will not be handled much ofter installation it will be fine, but you may get some on your fingers during the installation.  If you are going to put in on a frequently handled part (eg on a body) the handling will show up in a short while so in that situation a sealer would probably be necessary, but you will lose some of the metal appearance in the process.

 

The non-buffing varieties seam to be much less sensitive to handling so really not much need for the sealer/clear coat.  

 

Hope this is helpful.

  • Member since
    October, 2011
Posted by OrangeR/T on Monday, June 25, 2018 3:35 PM

Thanks, yup that helps!! I sprayed another exhuast system to expirement with the stuff, seems like it works pretty well. I lightly buffed the finish and it looks like real metal. I did notice my fingers were turning silvery tho, but really didn't see any finger prints or maring in the finish. Alway's looking to learn new techniques and products to try!

  • Member since
    February, 2008
  • From: Seattle, WA
Posted by gbk1 on Monday, June 25, 2018 9:09 PM

Metalizers are great stuff. I swear by 'em. Here are some tips from my experience.

1) You can greatly improve the durability of metalizers by letting it cure thoroughly. It dries so it can be handled very quickly, often within 5-10 minutes. But it's still soft and rubs off on your fingers, as you've already experienced. If you wait 8-12 hours before handling it, it gets pretty hard and a lot less ever comes off. Also, for the buffable Metalizers, letting it cure improves the polishing effect.

2) Clearing or sealing it really will dramatically dull the metalic sheen. But the Sealer that Testors makes really does seal off the Metalizer and makes it very durable. I would experiment with the Sealer to see where the resulting look is in line with what you want to achieve. For example, I find that for cast metal parts like transmission casings and rear ends, Metalizer Aluminum Plate under sealer looks very much like what I want and it's tough as nails

I've used clear paint over Metalizers and the result totally destroys the metallic sheen. Clear over Aluminum Plate, for example, just looks like plain old silver paint. I would avoid using clear paints over Metalizers.

3) Testors says Metalizers are for airbrushing only, so a lot of modelers new to Metalizers who don't airbrush will only buy the spray can metalizers. But there are only 4 Metalizer colors in spray cans: Aluminum Plate, Titanium, Gun Metal, and Stainless Steel. While these are all very useful, the Metalizer in the little jars comes in 13 colors, including really cool effects like Brass (which can look like gold), Burnt Metal which is a neat bronze kind of shade, and colors like Burnt Iron and Exhaust which look like the kinds of heated metal shades found on engine parts.

Here's a secret many modelers discover for themselves because they want to try these other colors: Metalizers can be applied with a brush with excellent results. Just avoid applying multiple coats. But one smooth coat applied with a good brush looks much like the sprayed on variety. This is especially useful for small parts when detailing out suspension parts or a motor. Also, using varied shades of dark metalizers is just the ticket for an ultra-realistic undercarriage.

4) Finally, even though Metalizers are lacquer paints they are extremely mild and won't effect styrene at all, So you need not worry about crazing. This is important if you want a really strong metallic sheen effect. The smoother the substrate the nicer the sheen. But Metalizer doesn't play nice over glossy paints as a rule. So, while Metalizers go down well over primers, the texture of the primer can reduce the metallic sheen. I suggest either of two options: a) Paint directly over bare styrene or resin. Just be sure the surface is very smooth and scratch free. Airplane modelers do this a lot. b) Polish out the primer so its smooth before applying the Metalizer. This is useful on parts that you have had to work over before painting.

I hope you find this info useful.

Bernard Kron Keep On Buildin'

  • Member since
    April, 2018
Posted by jchrisf on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 4:57 AM

So the enamel metalizers are not the same thing in the .5 ounce Model Master jars?  That's all we have around here.

  • Member since
    February, 2008
  • From: Seattle, WA
Posted by gbk1 on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 10:03 AM

jchrisf

So the enamel metalizers are not the same thing in the .5 ounce Model Master jars?  That's all we have around here.

 

I'm not sure what you're referring to. These are the only Testors Metalizers that I know of.

Here's a link to the main page for "Testors Metalizer Lacquer Paints" on the Testors web site: https://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/model-master/metalizer-lacquer-paint For a complete list of the colors available in the small jars go here: https://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/model-master/metalizer-lacquer-paint/bottles

Despite the fact that these paints are very mild and can be applied directly to bare plastic they have never been refered to by Testors, a far as I know, as enamels. They are clearly marked lacquers.

Bernard Kron Keep On Buildin'

  • Member since
    October, 2011
Posted by OrangeR/T on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 3:45 PM

Thanks for the great info gbk1!! I picked up the spray can at my local Hobby Lobby, the aluminum plate is the only shade they carry (at my local store anyway). I didn't look close enough but i don't think they carry the bottle metalizers, i will look again just to see next time i'm up there. I've been expirementing with the can i got, it's very neat stuff, it buffs almost to point of looking like chrome! I'm gonna lightly buff the exhuast  pipes, and shine the mufflers up a little brighter, it may not be perfect shade for an exhuast system but i think it looks a little better than just plain silver paint i've used in the past. It's great all the tools out there to take scale model building to that next level!!

  • Member since
    February, 2008
  • From: Seattle, WA
Posted by gbk1 on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 4:37 PM

OrangeR/T

Thanks for the great info gbk1!! I picked up the spray can at my local Hobby Lobby, the aluminum plate is the only shade they carry (at my local store anyway). I didn't look close enough but i don't think they carry the bottle metalizers, i will look again just to see next time i'm up there. I've been expirementing with the can i got, it's very neat stuff, it buffs almost to point of looking like chrome! I'm gonna lightly buff the exhuast  pipes, and shine the mufflers up a little brighter, it may not be perfect shade for an exhuast system but i think it looks a little better than just plain silver paint i've used in the past. It's great all the tools out there to take scale model building to that next level!!

 

Your welcome! I use old t-shirts (soft cotton) to rub out Metalizers. I tried facial tissue but it's actual too rough! If you let it harden up you can get Aluminum Plate very close to chrome. Below is a photo of a motor I built a few years back that uses tons of Metalizers. The heads and intake manifold are Metalizer Non-buffable Aluminum and the transmission is Metalizer Stainless Steel. The exhaust manifolds were done in Metalizer Aluminum Plate and then buffed out. The back half of the exhaust system, the long pipes with the slant-cut tips, are real aluminum tubing which I polished to a chrome-like finish with Simichrome, which is a metal polish that people who prep show cars and motorcycles use to polish metal parts to a very high sheen. The carb stacks are also Simichrome polished aluminum tubing. It's amazing how close you can come to the same finish as the polished aluminum with buffed out Metalizer Aluminum Plate if you let it cure properly.

Bernard Kron Keep On Buildin'

  • Member since
    April, 2018
Posted by jchrisf on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 5:54 PM

gbk1

 

 
jchrisf

So the enamel metalizers are not the same thing in the .5 ounce Model Master jars?  That's all we have around here.

 

 

 

I'm not sure what you're referring to. These are the only Testors Metalizers that I know of.

Here's a link to the main page for "Testors Metalizer Lacquer Paints" on the Testors web site: https://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/model-master/metalizer-lacquer-paint For a complete list of the colors available in the small jars go here: https://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/model-master/metalizer-lacquer-paint/bottles

Despite the fact that these paints are very mild and can be applied directly to bare plastic they have never been refered to by Testors, a far as I know, as enamels. They are clearly marked lacquers.

 

I believe I have been confused all this time :)

For some reason I thought the metallic paints with the same name (aluminum, steel, etc.) at Hobby Lobby that are enamels were the metalizers.  If I can find them I am looking forward to getting some metalizers (lacquers) especially since they dry faster.

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