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Clear Coat for Tamiya Lacquer

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  • Member since
    April, 2018
Clear Coat for Tamiya Lacquer
Posted by PorscheDreamer on Saturday, April 21, 2018 11:34 AM

Hi guys,  my current build is the 1:24 Tamiya Porsche 911 Turbo ‘88,  which I have painted Tamiya Gloss Aluminum TS-17.  I’ve generally shied away from metallic finishes as I like to polish out my finishes as opposed to clear coating.  Tried polishing out a silver finish many years ago and found out why you don’t polish metallics. 

Lesson learned,  so with the next metallic finish I clear coated,  but unfortunately after a number of years it yellowed horribly. So now I’m back to square one.  

The only thing I have in the drawer is a couple of cans of Testors High Gloss Clear.  From what I’ve read,  some people say it’s good stuff,  but many others claim it has a strong tendency to yellow over time.  

I’ve seen Rustoleum Lacquer and Duplicolor discussed as giving good results, and high resistance to yellowing as well.  As the TS-17 is a lacquer itself,  I should be safe in spraying another lacquer over it,  correct? I want to find something that won’t yellow as it ages. Thanks for any replies.

  • Member since
    August, 2016
Posted by mini man on Saturday, April 21, 2018 7:34 PM

I have used a product called Promatic and it is great,also in 2k cans!

 

Nigel.

 

  • Member since
    January, 2010
Posted by dreamsinplastic on Saturday, April 21, 2018 9:05 PM

Do you have an airbrush & compressor/air source ?? You might want to look at the 2-part automotive clear products (they are available in smaller quantities). Check the "?" at the top of the page.....ask your question.(articles /posts will appear with info). 2k clear in the cans work (I shot some of my bike parts & fender with it..Nice!). The down side is....once activated,you have maybe 24 hrs.(?) to use it...when it sets up,the rest is wasted. ....And you don't get the control with the rattle can,as you would with an airbrush & thinning adjustments.....IMHO.....GOOD LUCK Cuz !!......I'm sure many others will chime in !!...........JohnZ 

PS: If you choose 2k or 2-part clear........SAFETY from Inhaling or Exposure is a MUST do !!...Ventilation,Respirator (No paper masks)& neoprene gloves,long sleeves....at the very least.

"Taking a short hiatus from building models....... Projects/Work around the house.....It's riding weather.....Get in the Wind & down the Hwy....."

                   

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    April, 2018
Posted by PorscheDreamer on Monday, April 23, 2018 12:35 AM

Yes,  I have an airbrush/compressor but don’t use it for painting autos.  Only  used it when I used to build military vehicles.  I haven’t used my airbrush in a long time,  just can’t be bothered with the extra time involved in clean up as my hobby time is fairly limited as it is.  

I will probably just end up picking up a can of Tamiya TS-13.  Will definitely stay away from the Testors  clear enael,  which seems to have a bad reputation for yellowing.  

  • Member since
    December, 2003
  • From: Nova Scotia
Posted by Bainford on Monday, April 23, 2018 10:58 AM

Enamels are suseptable to yellowing by nature of their make-up. This goes for clear and white, and perhaps other very light colours too to a lesser degree. I primarily paint with enamels, and rarely use clear coat except when painting metallics. If I am painting a model white, or need a clear coat, I avoid enamels. Acrylics resist yellowing, and it is my understanding that lacquers do as well. You should be ok with the TS-13.

My current project is white, and I avoided using enamel paint specifically due to its yellowing tendancies. My last project was also white so I chose Tamiya acrylic paint, but I found the Tamiya acrylic to be a real pain for other reasons, and swore I would never paint a car body with Tamiya acrylics again so long as there was an alternative. So, this time around I chose Tamiya lacquer. Time will tell, but I am expecting it to remain white.

Que the Vikings: "Spam Spam Spam Spam Spam Spam Spam Spam ..."

  • Member since
    April, 2018
Posted by PorscheDreamer on Friday, April 27, 2018 9:51 PM

Bainford

Enamels are suseptable to yellowing by nature of their make-up. This goes for clear and white, and perhaps other very light colours too to a lesser degree. I primarily paint with enamels, and rarely use clear coat except when painting metallics. If I am painting a model white, or need a clear coat, I avoid enamels. Acrylics resist yellowing, and it is my understanding that lacquers do as well. You should be ok with the TS-13.

My current project is white, and I avoided using enamel paint specifically due to its yellowing tendancies. My last project was also white so I chose Tamiya acrylic paint, but I found the Tamiya acrylic to be a real pain for other reasons, and swore I would never paint a car body with Tamiya acrylics again so long as there was an alternative. So, this time around I chose Tamiya lacquer. Time will tell, but I am expecting it to remain white.

 

Thanks for the detailed explanation;  I didn’t know that enamels have a greater tendency to yellow.  Just always assumed that it was a case of an inferior manufacturer or simply a bad batch.  

I just painted a Tamiya 300ZX Twin Turbo with Tamiya  TS-26 Pure White,  which I believe is a lacquer.  I didn’t clear coat it,  just polished it out.  Hopefully no issues with yellowing.  

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