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Tips for painting candy?

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  • Member since
    October, 2016
  • From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Tips for painting candy?
Posted by modeller123 on Monday, March 19, 2018 5:44 AM

hi I am attempting to paint candy red it will be my first time panting candy and I was wondering if anybody has any tips to offer 

Tags: Candy , paint

PizzaDinner

 

 I'm a modeller not a fighter 

  • Member since
    March, 2010
  • From: Midwest
Posted by High octane on Monday, March 19, 2018 9:56 AM

Yes, you must use a base coat over your primer and the most poplular base coats are either silver or gold. When dry(the next day) spray your candy red in LIGHT coats and not too many. If you spray too many you'll lose the "candy effect" and you end up with more of a maroon color as I've seen guys do this. Here's my candy red Big John ove a gold base...................................

DSC01141

DSC05369

High octane

  • Member since
    October, 2016
  • From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Posted by modeller123 on Monday, March 19, 2018 1:13 PM

I was told that I had to use a siver base coat over a transparent red. If I did that what effect would I get?

Tags: paint , Candy , Body work

PizzaDinner

 

 I'm a modeller not a fighter 

  • Member since
    August, 2016
  • From: Wisconsin
Posted by jwrass14 on Monday, March 19, 2018 6:21 PM

Modeller123,

Go to page #3 I posted a History and Tutorial about a year ago titled Kandies 101.

This should help! If you have any questions... Give me a shout!

Jimmy "rass" 

"I Have Flying Monkey's And I'm Not Afraid To Use Them"

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Ohio
Posted by HineMotors on Monday, March 19, 2018 6:25 PM

Primer coat 1st, base coat (Silver or Gold) Gold gives a warmer effect, then your candy color. In that order, otherwise you will defeat the whole idea of candy color, you can also once you have the candy coat done you can bury it deeper with a couple clear coats.

Same process for "Metalflake" which would be the final clear with flakes and then more just clear coats to bury the flakes.

  • Member since
    October, 2016
  • From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Posted by modeller123 on Tuesday, March 20, 2018 8:48 PM

 Now I understand what you meant hinemoters I though I wrote silver under red but I wrote silver over red

jwrass14 thank you that was really helpful

do I use  transparent red or a solid red? 

Tags: paint , Candy , Body work

PizzaDinner

 

 I'm a modeller not a fighter 

  • Member since
    October, 2016
  • From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Posted by modeller123 on Tuesday, March 20, 2018 8:54 PM

High octane that is the kit that I am working on what did you do with the little tabs on the hood The clip it the body because I don’t want to have to push the hood sides in to much otherwise it might break 

Tags: paint , Candy , Body work

PizzaDinner

 

 I'm a modeller not a fighter 

  • Member since
    March, 2010
  • From: Midwest
Posted by High octane on Tuesday, March 20, 2018 11:02 PM

Remove the tabs on the hood as that's what I did, and fill the openings where the tabs were supposed to go. I've built at least three of these Revell '41 Willys kits, and I may not be done yet as I love gassers.

High octane

  • Member since
    December, 2007
  • From: Portland Oregon: Tree Country. Most beautiful area on the West coast.
Posted by Treehugger Dave on Wednesday, March 21, 2018 10:25 AM

A lot of great advise for candy painting, but one major step not included here or well known among model builders.

Whatever base coat color you use be it silver, gold or yes even white pearl (George Barris invented it - candy over white pearl) you cover the base coat in 3 coats of clear. Let that dry a day and sand sommth - final paper around 800 grit to a 1000.

THEN start shooting your candy color until you get the depth of color you want. Let dry a day and then shoot 3 couats of clear coat. No sanding needed - just polish.

Now remember you need a proven technique for all this. You don't just jump in the very first time and shoot a perfect candy paint job.

There is  all kinds of proper drying times, distance away you shoot, proper spray over-lap, getting all your pieces the same shade so it doesn't look like a circus car of different shades, and the list goes on.

I'd suggest you PRACTICE your technique on some scrap plastic or even better some white plastic picnic spoons. Their made of the same plastic as your model kit and will react to the paint and primer you use the same as your model kit. REMEMbER - this is the hardest discipline in model building - THIS IS NOT JUST PLUG AND PLAY!!!

Whatever you choose to do, good luck on your project Thumbs Up.

This is multi-colors of candies over silver metalflake covered in each step with several coats of clear - all urethane paints and the clear is catalyzed. IT TOOK OVER A WEEK TO PAINT.

Love Velocity channel, Mecum Auctions and Barrett/Jackson auctions 

 

 

                                     

 

 

  • Member since
    January, 2011
  • From: long island, new york
Posted by chucky on Wednesday, March 21, 2018 12:25 PM

That picture is worth as many words as you choose to write, Dave! I had not heard of clearing over the base coat and sanding prior to the candy coats, but I imagine that with metalflake it would be a good idea. I've never cleared over fine gold and silver basecoats intended for candy topcoats because they generally lay out nice and smooth. Your idea certainly has merit. I remember how much clear I had to pile on 1:1 Metalflake paint jobs in order to be able to sand and polish without getting into the flake. Of course, if the car was outdoors a lot (especially red), the flake would fade in a few years making the whole process an expensive waste of time. Glad to have today's UV protected clears and colors. Thanks for your helpful reply, as always. Smile

chucky

  • Member since
    October, 2016
  • From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Posted by modeller123 on Wednesday, March 21, 2018 7:56 PM

I have a 1933 willis body that I am practicing with. I will try the clear over the base coat and see how it works out

Tags: paint , Candy , Body work

PizzaDinner

 

 I'm a modeller not a fighter 

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