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Clear coating Molotow markers

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  • Member since
    February 2017
Clear coating Molotow markers
Posted by JohnDB on Saturday, January 13, 2018 10:32 PM

Just wondering if anybody has found a really good spray can clear coat that doesn't fog up the Molotow markers? I have tried Testors wet-look clear lacquer, Tamiya clear gloss, and they turn the Chrome into a grayish silver looking paint. I also tried using Testors metalizer sealer, did the same thing. The best results I have gotten so far is using testors enamel gloss clear coat, the Chrome still has reflective qualities using the enamel. If anybody finds anything better please post on this forum. My two cents worth on these molotow markers is that I don't use them for chrome trim on the body, I use it on small trim pieces and the Chrome pieces that are cut off a tree and always have a bare spot , they work pretty good for that.

  • Member since
    July 2015
Posted by Moparfan on Sunday, January 14, 2018 8:44 PM
I hear you.I can not find a clear coat that works either.And just like you,I use it the same way.I tried using it on a pair of resin valve covers.Took almost 2 weeks to dry.You can't use as a thick layer.

Anthony DeMarco

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Nashua, New Hampshire
Posted by mrmike on Monday, January 15, 2018 7:44 AM

Unfortunately, there is no spray can clear coat that can be used on Molotow Liquid Chrome.  The best that several members of my Club have found is Alclad II Gloss Klear Kote through an airbrush.  I don't know if this is available in a spray can or not.  

"That's Spenser with an 'S' like the poet."

Robert Urich Spenser For Hire 1985

Classic Plastic Model Club

  • Member since
    August 2016
Posted by mini man on Monday, January 15, 2018 7:32 PM

Off the wall thought,what about hair spray? will do an experiment tomorrow - before N after and post em here.

 

Nigel.

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Fall River, Ma.
Posted by baycolony on Monday, January 15, 2018 9:43 PM

Did you try Future floor polish.  You can brush it or spray it and it is water based.  Just wondering, why do you want to clear coat the chrome finish anyway.  Is it not durable enough?

 Here is a link to my other completed kits: 

http://public.fotki.com/GilCosta/

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Nova Scotia
Posted by Bainford on Tuesday, January 16, 2018 8:02 AM

One respected community member who was doing experiments with this stuff found Alclad Aqua Gloss to have the least detrimental effect on Molotow ink.

As for durability, I find the stuff to be reasonably tolerant of handling. The less handling the better, of course, but when cured it seems stable. Able to withstand some light, incidental final assembly handling.

"It would be unusual, if the unusual didn't occur."

- Steamboat Gariepy

Trevor

  • Member since
    June 2015
Posted by dimaxion on Wednesday, January 17, 2018 1:19 PM

I appreciate this information .. Thanx .. 

  • Member since
    June 2013
  • From: Sugarloaf, PA
Posted by Johnt on Monday, February 5, 2018 8:42 AM
Future works for me.
  • Member since
    March 2019
Posted by BillG-MN on Tuesday, March 26, 2019 6:56 PM

I tried a few things.

Alclad II, works pretty well if it is an extremely thin airbrushed coat, but the coat is so thin that it doesn't protect the finish.  Thicker coats, or multiple thin coats, and it gets cloudy.  Applied KBS later, clouded up the one with thin Alclad II.

KBS Diamond Coat (urethane automotive clear coat), straight on mirror finish. Clouds it badly.  Don't do this.

Scotts Liquid Gold floor polish (I'd imagine Pledge would do the same but Scotts is all my local store carried) The clouding is barely noticable, even with several coats.  Maybe maintains 95% of the chrome effect. When I dip the part in KBS Diamond Coat after protecting it with the floor polish, it maintains all of the chrome effect that it had with just the floor polish.

For what it is worth...

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by 195X on Tuesday, March 26, 2019 8:31 PM

The first thing one must remember is that Molotow is NOT a paint. It is an ink. The thinner you can get it on the model, the better off you are. Airbrushing is best.

It takes 48 hrs to fully cure to the touch, another 48 should be waited for before clearing. The Allcladd clear and futureshine are the only things I've found you can clear it with, without loss of shine but it has to be fully dry first. It does hold up and handle well after full cure. Clear coating in this case should be only when absolutely necessary.

Hope this is a help.

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Nova Scotia
Posted by Bainford on Wednesday, March 27, 2019 9:32 AM

195X

The first thing one must remember is that Molotow is NOT a paint. It is an ink.

Sure, but what does that mean? Technically, what is the difference between paint and ink? According to Molotow their product is an acrylic base similar to hobby paints. It has some seemingly unique properties, but many dedicated paint formulations do, so what makes it 'not paint'?

 

"It would be unusual, if the unusual didn't occur."

- Steamboat Gariepy

Trevor

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by 195X on Wednesday, March 27, 2019 9:46 AM

They can explain it better than me apparently. 

 

https://www.molotow.com/en/applications/marker-applications/liquid-chrome/

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Nova Scotia
Posted by Bainford on Thursday, March 28, 2019 11:47 AM

For anyone who may be interested, I had a little look into this. Hearing the term 'ink' related to this product and seeing it on the pens got me curious as to what that really meant, and quite skeptical given the way some words are thrown around in marketing circles.

I have found two definitions describing the difference between paint and ink. One is very technical and deals with the way the pigments are manipulated within the solution (I'll spare you the gritty details). Another is an older definition and deals with the way the solution interacts with the medium onto which it is applied. Regardless of which definition your prefer, Molotow is very clearly paint, unique though it may be.

Often times the product in question is referred as a paint or an ink depending on how it is used. Generally speaking, anything you paint with is paint. Mud would be paint if you dipped a brush in it and painted the fence with mud. In fact, if you paint with ink, then ink is paint, or if you loaded a pen with paint, then the paint is ink. As an example, silk screeners call the products they use ink, but they are actually paints. Similarly, artists water colours are not paint, but technically ink.

So the bottom line is, Molotow is paint, an alcohol based acrylic paint, but that doesn't really matter. The little bottle of chrome like fluid doesn't care what you call it, its bahaviour will remain unchanged.

I realise all of this is OTT and likely no one cares. My curiosity got the better of me, and so just reporting the findings of my cursory investigation. Cheers.

"It would be unusual, if the unusual didn't occur."

- Steamboat Gariepy

Trevor

  • Member since
    May 2008
Posted by TerryB on Wednesday, April 3, 2019 12:22 PM

you can clear it,use spaz stix ultimate clear with very little lose of shine,(i use it from a spray can but can be airbrushed) just put one decent ccoat on and walk away!

There was a very hewlp ful artical in scale auto a few months ago about it!

  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Tehachapi, CA
Posted by PatrickN on Tuesday, April 9, 2019 1:33 PM

Did anyone try using the Molotow clear rattle cans to seal the chrome?

Has anyone used anything but the chrome such as the gold or other metals?

Thanks in advance!

"Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana."- Groucho Marx

 

 

  • Member since
    January 2010
Posted by edseldave on Tuesday, March 10, 2020 10:14 PM

Ive been using the pen / stick Molotow chrome for detailing & like the finish . But have been having issues with what seems to be the paint drying up in the tip & not getting it to work after that . Anyone have the same problem ?  And what to do to stop this ...  

I dont use them a lot , so the pen may sit for a couple weeks between use . It is frustrating for it not to work when Ive used it only 2 or 3 times ...  

Ive had the same trouble with Pilot brand paint pens .. 

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Nova Scotia
Posted by Bainford on Wednesday, March 11, 2020 6:44 AM

Others have also experienced drying or clogging in the tip when the pen is used infrequently. I have not tried this, but some have removed the white tip piece and soaked it in a jar of lacquer thinner to clean it out. Apperently this will help and restore the action.

I use my pens infrequently as well. They are a couple years old now, and will sit for months between uses at times. I have found lately that the stuff dries with a bright, metal flake silver appearance rather than a smooth chrome appearance.  I have been told that this may be a result of the way I store my pens, though I am skeptical. I store them tip down, but this may promote clogging, and some suggest they should be stored tip up.

Just passing on things I've heard, not sure the degree to which any of that is fact.

"It would be unusual, if the unusual didn't occur."

- Steamboat Gariepy

Trevor

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