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Polishing photo etched parts.

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  • Member since
    January, 2017
Polishing photo etched parts.
Posted by 195X on Tuesday, August 29, 2017 7:26 PM

One area of modeling I've had limited exposure/success with, is polishing photo etched items.

I see so many exquisite parts polished to a chrome like shine well above the shine they come with, I wonder if you all would share your polishing techniques?

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

  • Member since
    January, 2011
  • From: long island, new york
Posted by chucky on Tuesday, August 29, 2017 7:34 PM

I have had success on PE using the regular polishing cloths up to 12000 grit. I have a set of "used up" cloths that I use for polishing aluminum tubing, photo-etch and other metal items. I keep a separate "fresh" polishing kit for paint jobs to avoid possibly scratching the paint with imbedded metal particles. Metal polish on a cloth also works, but I usually end up snagging the cloth and damaging the points or corners of the PE. (Do your polishing while the PE is still attached to the backing and framework.)

chucky

  • Member since
    January, 2017
Posted by 195X on Tuesday, August 29, 2017 8:00 PM

chucky

I have had success on PE using the regular polishing cloths up to 12000 grit. I have a set of "used up" cloths that I use for polishing aluminum tubing, photo-etch and other metal items. I keep a separate "fresh" polishing kit for paint jobs to avoid possibly scratching the paint with imbedded metal particles. Metal polish on a cloth also works, but I usually end up snagging the cloth and damaging the points or corners of the PE. (Do your polishing while the PE is still attached to the backing and framework.)

 

I have had the same issue with snagging, which prompted this thread. I thought about backing it up with tape, but it seems to me that would cause another world of issues. Sure it would help hold the edges down, but then you've got the polishing cloth sticking to the tape.

Where I've been making my mistake (I think) is that I have been mounting them to the kit, THEN trying to polish them. I'm a pretty bright guy, but sometimes I can be really thick!

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

TnT
  • Member since
    September, 2016
Posted by TnT on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 12:24 AM

What about compund on a q tip? Easier to control.

  • Member since
    January, 2017
Posted by 195X on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 12:29 AM

TnT

What about compund on a q tip? Easier to control.

 

Well, I don't really know what compound to use. Someone once told me to use toothpaste on a q-tip. Unfortunately the loose fibers of the q eventually snagged and ruined the part.    Crying

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

TnT
  • Member since
    September, 2016
Posted by TnT on Wednesday, August 30, 2017 1:23 AM

When i had all of my motorcycles i had a tube of polish that would make any silver metal shine. Worked great on aluminum, chrome, and other metals. I will look and see if it might be in my mess of a garage. It was expensive but well worth the price. Very little effort involved to brighten anything.

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