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Having Some Bodywork Problems

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  • Member since
    August, 2015
  • From: Hamptonville, NC
Having Some Bodywork Problems
Posted by TarheelRick on Sunday, August 20, 2017 6:20 PM

Been trying to get my MAGNUMSRT8RPU ready for paint.  I puttied in the rear door lines, all door handles, and the joints where the front and rear fascia join the body, I am going for the clean look.  I got the body sanded, using a rubber block behind my sandpaper, sprayed with Duplicolor gray sandable primer.  The door lines and door handles are gone, however the fascia joints are still visible;: it appears as if they have sunk in.  I reputtied, resanded, reprimed, and have had the same issue.  The first time I used Tamiya white putty, the second time I used Bondo spotglaze.  After the second time, I used a dental bit and ground out the putty areas and reputtied using Bondo.  After primer, had the same issue.  Yesterday I spread a fine layer of Tamiya white, sanded, primed with Duplicolor white sandable primer and still have the same issue.  As I said, the door lines and door handles came out fine.  Any suggestions?

I build models because I can't afford the real thing!

  • Member since
    January, 2017
Posted by 195X on Sunday, August 20, 2017 7:40 PM

Having a hard time understanding this one. I use Bondo glazing filler exclusively and have never had this issue. I use it because of the miniscule shrinkage.

One peice of advice I can offer is that the glazing putty should always go on top of primer, never on bare plastic.

I suggest removing the putty. Then use a gap filling glue on the fascia until the separation is all but gone. Then prime and apply the putty. If that doesn't help I'm out of ideas.

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

  • Member since
    January, 2011
  • From: long island, new york
Posted by chucky on Sunday, August 20, 2017 7:46 PM

I'm not familiar with this particular kit, but I'm assuming that you had to attach the front and rear fascias to the body. Since the rest of your fill work seems to be stable, I would question what glue was used to attach the fascias. If regular styrene model cement was used, you may have created a softening of the plastic at the joints. I have had certain kits with plastic that never fully "hardened" after gluing with Testors styrene glues. That's why I use only thick CA glue for body mods as it doesn't soften the plastic and also serves to fill the joint. Both the Bondo spot glaze and Duplicolor solvents may contribute to the continuing softening of the joint, producing shrinkage as the solvents escape. Just a guess, but I feel your pain. Super Angry

chucky

  • Member since
    August, 2015
  • From: Hamptonville, NC
Posted by TarheelRick on Monday, August 21, 2017 3:39 AM

Thanks for the suggestions.  They do sound plausible.  I am using straight MEK for glue, it works very well.  I have heard of the "forever soft" expecialy on some of the newer Revell kit plastic.  I will give it a try today and let you know the results.

I build models because I can't afford the real thing!

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