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painting red 56 t bird and foil

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  • Member since
    February, 2013
painting red 56 t bird and foil
Posted by 1940fORD on Sunday, April 23, 2017 5:51 PM

A while ago I red (pun intended) that the red plastic will bleed through unless one uses a good primer. Final coat will be white. Your thoughts? 

Also, I am going to try doing the foiling first, painting, and then wiping the paint off the foiled areas. Any tricks or hints on how to do this? 

Thanks, 1940 Ford 

  • Member since
    March, 2010
  • From: Midwest
Posted by High octane on Sunday, April 23, 2017 11:02 PM

On colored plastic, red, green, yellow, etc. I use Tamiya Silver Leaf as a barrier on the bare plastic, then primer, and then my color coats and clear coats. I have no "bleed through" problems with this method.

I would use BMF on the emblems & scripts under the paint, but it seems like too much work to clean off the paint on the window trim and spears, etc. I myself find it easier to use BMF around the windows after I paint the body.

High octane

  • Member since
    February, 2013
Posted by 1940fORD on Monday, April 24, 2017 11:57 AM

Thanks. 

Previously I had painted with Zinsser Bin primer and Dupli-color white. Came out fine on the top, hood, but had a problem on the body, so stripped it to start over. Was just wondering if I could skip the primer and just go with the color coat, so I don't have to keep wiping the paint off the emblems.. 

Also, should I use a dry cotton swab to wipe the paint off the emblems or have a slight amount of thinner on it? Should I wait until the paint is dry or try to do it just after I apply the paint? 

Thanks. 1940 Ford 

  • Member since
    December, 2003
  • From: Nova Scotia
Posted by Bainford on Monday, April 24, 2017 8:16 PM

There are probably different ways to go about this, but this how I do it.

When doing the 'BMF before paint' method of foiling emblems I only remove the paint once, after the final colour coat. And I do it only after the paint has cured enough to allow the body to be handled/polished. If you have any colour sanding or coarse polishing to do, do that first. Leaving the paint on the emblem will protect the foil.

I start by removing paint carefully with a micromesh polishing pad, probably 4000 or 6000 depending on how much paint there is to remove. Stop short of actually rubbing the polishing pad against the BMF.

With most of the paint removed, the rest will be removed with lacquer thinner (or perhaps high percentage isopropyl alcohol for acrylic). A toothpick dipped in thinner (with the excess wiped off) works well for this. I have also used a pencil eraser sharpened to a point and dampened with thinner.

A regular cotton swab will likely be too coarse to have the necessary control needed to cleanly remove the paint from the emblem. I have some hobby specific swabs from Mr.Hobby (part# GT37:280) that are small and very firm. The package includes two types, round end and point end. The pointed one is perfect for this when dampened with thinner. There are other options for firm and pointed swabs out there too.

I advise practicing on a scrap body before trying this on a nice paint job, just to get the feel of it all.

Go slow. Use maganification. Be easy on the foil. Don't use too much thinner. Good luck.

Perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.
       - Antoine de Saint-Exepury

Trevor

  • Member since
    February, 2013
Posted by 1940fORD on Tuesday, April 25, 2017 12:29 AM
Thanks so much 1940 Ford

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