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Raised Letters on Body's

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  • Member since
    March, 2017
Raised Letters on Body's
Posted by adangelojr69 on Monday, March 13, 2017 11:41 PM

Anyone have any tips on how to make the chrome letters on car body's stand out? I have read where you should BMF the letters prior to paint then rub the paint off with a q-tip and thinner but... I am open to other suggestions.

  • Member since
    March, 2010
  • From: Midwest
Posted by High octane on Tuesday, March 14, 2017 9:14 AM

Well if you don't want to use BMF under the paint, you could VERY carefully paint the letters by hand using a 3/0 brush or smaller or the end of a toothpick. If your building a custom, you could always sand the letters, emblems, and scripts off before painting the body. Sometimes there are photo-etched sets that you could use for the lettering as well.

High octane

  • Member since
    December, 2003
  • From: Nova Scotia
Posted by Bainford on Tuesday, March 14, 2017 11:45 AM

I often do the 'BMF before painting' procedure for chrome badges. Of course it has a lot to do with the quality of the engraved scripts or badges on the body. If the scripts are well molded on the body, the result is much better than PE scripts.

Before any work is done on the body, I tape over the script or badge with a small piece of masking tape just large enough to cover the script. This protects it from damage during the priming and body prep stages, preserving maximum crispness of the molded script.

After the prep work is done I remove the masking tape and replace it with a piece of BMF. Burnish it carefully into the contours of the script or badge. Give the area one last (light) shot of primer, then feather out any visible BMF edges.

Paint body as usual and let cure. The trickiest bit is removing the paint from the script without messing up the BMF. I use a number of tools for doing this; fine Micromesh abrasive pads, pencil eraser sometimes dampened (not soaked) in lacquer and sometimes without, toothpick dipped in thinner, eraser with fine polishing compound, etc. The two primary tips here are; use lots of magnification, and work very slowly & carefully. Don't rush it. The result can be stunning. For some scripts, following up with a touch of black washing adds much realism.

Definately try this on a scrap body first. With a bit of practice it can produce spectacular results.

Power matters in the straights.
Lightness matters everywhere. - Colin Chapman

Trevor

  • Member since
    March, 2017
Posted by adangelojr69 on Thursday, March 16, 2017 3:11 AM

Thanks! I will give it a shot!

  • Member since
    December, 2007
  • From: Oregon: Tree Country.
Posted by Treehugger Dave on Thursday, March 16, 2017 9:47 AM

For me it depends on the quality and crispness of the script or other features I'm going to foil. I don't like to lock myself into any one way of doing something. Being flexable about my choices has always worked well for me.

Sometimes I foil before I paint and sometimes after. The affect I want to get has some influence on which I want to use, and if I'm going to use clear over the foil affects my choices too.

We all have our "Personalized" ways of doing things, and I don't think there is any one style that suits everyone.

Practice and experiment to see what suits you best on some sample donor bodies, that you can do over and over with stripping the paint and foil off in-between, before you do your project your working on. Better to mess up a donor body that can be redone or thrown away than your project with lots of time invested. 

I love Mecum Auctions and Barrett/Jackson auctions.

I bought all the model stuff I wanted for Christmas because no one else would spend that much on me Laugh Laugh

 

                                     

 

 

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