There is an upside that I have used for the last sevaral years mixing enamels and lacquers using spray cans.
Over the years here on SA there was an understanding that you can't shoot lacquers over enamel, but several of us have developed our own technique of doning just that - shooting in my case clear coat lacquer over enamel - works every time with never a failure.
Thr reason I started doing it at times was because I liked the colors I found in certain enamel colors that no one else made. The enamel paints were good quality and my clear works great with everything (It's no longer made ).
It's a simple system that I use. After you've decided what paint type and color to use, do your prep work with the appropriate primer and primer color. Primer colors affect the base code shade and brightness.
I let my primers final coat dry a week and then I sand.
Next, using my spray can of enamel, I use a modified 1,2,3 painting system...Light, medium and wet with about 10 minutes between each coat for tacking.
After the final coat I let the base color dry for an hour but no more.
Then I begin my 1,2,3 steps of clear coating with the same drying time. I let it dry for 24 hours and then go straight to a med to wet coating stage for gloss. The body is mounted on a holder of my own design so once I'm done spraying I can continually rotate the body so the heavy clearing won't run. I rotate it about 10 minutes and then set it into the other part of the two-piece holder so it can continue to dry, and has a place to sit until the next day when i rub it out.
I never sand a paint job on models - ever, except for light dust particles. Even though the paint appears to be dry, it is still in a fluid state, and the special cloth I use and the compound for rubbing actually force the paint to smooth out and become glass-like with absolutely no orange-peel, and hardly any removal of the clear.
After a week the clear coat will harden and dull a tiny bit, and that's when I hit it with the same polishing compound and then polish with a super-fine 3m polishing product, then finish with a Meguiers polishing show car glaze. I use clothes made just for this. Inexpensive and makes all the difference.
This painting process I use, using lacquer over enamels I learned from my mother who was an artist many decades ago.
It's called painting wet-in-wet. The paints are combined while still wet and haven't changed chemically yet due to drying. You sort of "lacquerize" the enamel while still wet. The attacking we're used to hearing about or seeing, sometimes called "Alagatoring" is due to the paint drying to long and changing it's chemical make-up.
Actually for model cars,at least for me, over-drying is my worst enemy.
Having a fair knowledge of a paints chemical make-up has been one of my best tools for knowing how to combine all types of paint, along with proper understanding of dry times and conditions for painting your cars in along with proper paint prep proceedures.
When you master the wet -in - wet spray system it will be a huge game changer and open up doors to a whole new world of spray painting.
It may sound complicated, but if you spend the time needed to learn, after a while it becomes second nature, and with a dependable painting system you don't have to "Sweat" messing things up with a bad paint job, and you'll have a finished model you can be very proud of .
PS - Remember to always do samples first before doing it on a finished project.