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Dust and particles after wet coat

9 replies
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  • Member since
    December 2016
Dust and particles after wet coat
Posted by Valentyn on Sunday, December 4, 2016 12:33 PM

I'm not a begginer scale modeller but certainly new in auto modelling. While working on my first car model (well, at least first not scrap model) I run into the issue of having dust or dry paint particles on wet coat. Model Masters enamel is used.



The questions are:

- Shall I polish the body and clear coat after?

- Shall I clear coat and then polish?

- Shall I polish only?

- Are there any other options (please don't suggest to strip the paint completely and start from scratch, I tried this once and it's a hell)?





Tags: dust , finish , wet
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Nova Scotia
Posted by Bainford on Monday, December 5, 2016 10:11 AM

To get rid of the junk in your paint, polish using some type of firm sand pad (such as micromesh), or sanding film (such as Flex-i-grit) wrapped around a sanding block. I use a vinyl drafting eraser as a sanding block. Start with finer grit and work on the area with trash in the paint. Move down one grit coarser if its going too slow. Once the debris has been flattened out move back up to finer grits to restore lustre. Becareful to not remove too much paint from any spot.

Clear coating is an option. Most builders tend to do it, though in the vast majority of cases I prefer not to. I just polish the existing paint to a nice shine. Metallic paint is an exception as it can't be directly polished. It must be clear coated first.

If you chose to clear coat, it can be done after the flattening of the debris in the paint. Once the clear coat has cured it can be polished to the desired shine.

"It would be unusual, if the unusual didn't occur."

- Steamboat Gariepy


  • Member since
    December 2016
Posted by Valentyn on Monday, December 5, 2016 6:54 PM

That is the solution I was leaning towards originally. Thanks Trevor, I'll post the result of polishing to make sure I'm doing it right. 

  • Member since
    May 2015
Posted by Goofy62 on Monday, December 5, 2016 7:24 PM

How long ago did you paint it?

Being as you used Testors enamel, I wouldn't go near it with any sand paper or polishing pads for a good couple of months!

Enamel takes a long time to cure & there's a good posibility you'll do more damage than good if the paint isn't cured.



  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Midwest
Posted by High octane on Monday, December 5, 2016 11:03 PM

I would start painting any future models with lacquer paints from now on. Lacquer dries much faster, is more forgiving, easier to fix, and looks great when the clear coats are "polished out."

High octane

  • Member since
    December 2016
Posted by Valentyn on Tuesday, December 6, 2016 5:29 PM

I built very simple drying booth where the temperature is around 100F, plus climat over here is dry. It takes about 3 days for MM enamel to cure in it.  

  • Member since
    December 2016
Posted by Valentyn on Tuesday, December 6, 2016 5:36 PM

I tried lacquers few times without much success. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but MM enamels work better for me because of longer drying time and self-leveling

  • Member since
    June 2017
  • From: Fontana, CA
Posted by fontuckydick on Wednesday, June 14, 2017 3:42 PM

Could you tell me how to build a drying both? No matter what kind of paint or how I apply it I always get dust in it before it drys, thanks


  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by 195X on Thursday, June 15, 2017 11:47 AM

I would gently knock the tops off the dust particles with an emery board (white side, the red is too rough) then sand the area up to 3,000 grit. Then clear coat away and repeat the sand/polish step if necessary.

Dust is a fact of life in painting car models. I have found it better to worry less about dust and focus more on polishing. Bringing out that shine is where you really start to love your model! ;)


Could you tell me how to build a drying both? No matter what kind of paint or how I apply it I always get dust in it before it drys, thanks



Or you could get a food dehydrator. 

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

  • Member since
    January 2009
Posted by DAYTONA on Friday, June 16, 2017 9:31 AM

...immediately after painting, I would hang the parts upside down, body included....rarely had a dust/dirt issue


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