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How to remove paint runs

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  • Member since
    April 2011
How to remove paint runs
Posted by GetYourModelOn on Sunday, June 2, 2013 7:40 PM

Hello Everybody,

I recently spray painted a model I was working on using Tamiya Pure White (TS-26) which is a Lacquer. I layed it on pretty thick thinking that I would not have any issues with running paint since I have used Tamiya Lacquer spray paint in the past with no issues. Unfortunately, I noticed that the paint began to run. I immediately stopped painting and put it aside thinking that it would self level, but it did not. The question that I have is what would be the best way of removing these runs?

I really do not want to strip the paint off the model!

Thank you

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Midwest
Posted by High octane on Sunday, June 2, 2013 7:48 PM

Join the club as I've had that happen to me earlier this year. I think that I let it dry ( cure, gas out, harden) for about a week and then I wet sanded the run with3600-4000 grit sanding cloth and then went up to 6, 8, and 12,000 grits if I remember correctly. I then just re-shot the affected area and cleared the body the next day. The results came out well.

High octane

  • Member since
    July 2005
Posted by Snake45 on Sunday, June 2, 2013 8:18 PM

Yup, wait till it's dry and then sand it out. I'd start with #800 wetordry paper, wet (maybe #600 if the run is big or lumpy enough) and then go to #1000 and then #1500 or #2000. With a SOLID color and lacquer, you should have no problems as long as the paint didn't run into a detail area such as a nameplate or emblem.

Recovering aircraft modeler. "I can see me bound and gagged

Dragged behind the clownmobile...."

--Warren Zevon, "Hostage-O," Life'll Kill Ya, Artemis Record 2000

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: leominster ma . 01453
Posted by hemi hunter on Sunday, June 2, 2013 9:45 PM

S 45 thankz for the tip as i have a small run myself an your tip just solved my problem  . thankz again hemi

  • Member since
    January 2011
  • From: long island, new york
Posted by chucky on Sunday, June 2, 2013 10:11 PM

Gary, if it's a heavy run, the run itself will take longer to dry than the surrounding paint. If there are no nearby obstructions (moldings, emblems, etc.) you can "shave" the run as is done on 1:1 cars. Using a NEW single edged razor blade held between your finger and thumb, lightly drag the edge of the blade along the run at a 90-degree angle to the surface. By using very light pressure, you can reduce the height of the run without incurring additional damage. Since you will now have exposed uncured paint, let the newly shaved area dry thoroughly before sanding with the progressively finer grit polishing pads or papers. Utilizing this method allows you to start with a flat/level surface so you don't end up with a shiny but slightly raised area where the run formerly existed. If you are hesitant to try the razor blade method, practice on some scrap plastic to get the feel. If you stopped painting before you completed the application of all necessary paint coats, you can skip all the polishing grits and simply wet sand the "shaved" area with 2000 grit and continue painting.

chucky

  • Member since
    May 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, June 4, 2013 7:25 AM

GYMO, I'd start with another body.   Removing runs is near impossible, even on  full size "Models"!  H/O must have got lucky, or he's that darn good!   LOL!   The trick is not to get runs..  Oh, well.............

When you sand a run,  you have the tendency to undercut the area next to the run, and you usually expose the primer, while still leaving the paint "run line".  Honest!!.  It's known in the body shop trade as a pain-ters "signature". You can buy a "Shaver", which helps, but again it's full size.  So, it's nearly impossible.

And stripping doesn't usually work, because strippers usually only work on enamel products. (You did lacquer)   The only  good way, then is to sand it off and redo. And if ya' screwed it up once, you'll probably do it again!

Murphy can be rough.....Hence, Choose your poison.  Get on ebay and buy a corresponding junker!!!!!  S56->

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