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1932 5 window coupe masking

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  • Member since
    January, 2019
  • From: Sydney Australia
1932 5 window coupe masking
Posted by BarryS on Tuesday, January 08, 2019 5:14 PM

Hi All,

This is the first model I have built in over 40 years. It has been a bit of a learning curve.

I'm up to the stage of spraying the rectanglar vinyl roof section with matt black paint.

Before I start does anyone have any tips on how to mask, given there are no straight lines and there are rounded corners.

Would I be better to using Tamiya masking tape and try to edge around corners or use Tamiya vinyl making tape for curves. What do I do where the tap starts and finishes.

The body colour is down so I want to avoid any paint getting on the body coats.

Any advise would be much appreciated.

 

  • Member since
    February, 2008
  • From: Seattle, WA
Posted by gbk1 on Wednesday, January 09, 2019 1:25 PM

The simplest and most effective method I've found is to mask the whole body area you want to protect using a good quality masking tape that is flexible enough to conform to the contour of the surface. Standard Tamiya masking tape, IMHO, is as good as it gets and will do an excellent job. I never found vinyl tape to be especially beneficial.

Overlap the masking tape into the area you want to leave exposed, in this case the cloth top panel, and then, with a sharp, fresh #11 blade, and using the bead on the roof panel on this model, cut away the overlapped masking tape. This will give you the most accurate edge. Then burnish down the edge to make sure there are no bubbles or gaps for paint to leak through.

I also would suggest painting the area with whatever the last color was that was on the neighboring surfaces. For example, if that was gray primer, then use that, or if you are up to color coats use that. The other option is to spray with clear before moving on to the flat black. This coat will act as a sealant and prevent any possibility of visible leakage.

Now apply you paint to the exposed area, in this case flat black.

This is pretty much a universal approach to masking. If you can place your masking tape exactly where you want it then you can avoid cutting with the #11 blade. In this case for example, you could do that for the straight edges and just cut around the rounded corners. But cutting ensures precise accuracy where you require it.

Last fall I finished a Revell Deuce Tudor Sedan and did the cloth top exactly this way. I did the top first, before applying the final color coats to the rest of the body. The top was chopped so the body had been primered during body work. Once the roof was painted (in this case in flat black primer) and the paint well cured I masked it and only removed the masking tape once all the subsequent paint was applied, including clear in order to preserve the flat black.

Here's a picture from an earlier project showing the masked area under color and clear before removing the masking at the end. This car is black so the only difference between the main body color and the cloth area was the gloss.

And lastly here's are a couple of projects showing two approaches to masking overall,

This T-Bird I just finished was originally painted green and then the gold stripes and scallops applied by laying the stripes, etc. in masking tape, then masking the entire body and removing the masking tape for the stripes and scallops. Then the exposed areas were sprayed with Testors Pure Gold. After unmasking the entire rest of the body the whole job was clear coated. This is not something I usually do because I'm risking the entire rest of the paint job if I get something wrong, but I had already done the body paint so... Any rounded corners and curves you see were finished off using the #ll blade mentioned earlier. The straighter areas were done by lining them up egainst contours in the bodywork as guides and eyeballing it.

This is a project I have on my bench now. This is the way I mainly do these. The car is a candy red so I painted it in Testors Pure Gold as the candy undercoat. The stripes and scallops are gold, so they were masked off and then the entire rest of the body painted in Tamiya Clear Red. There are still decals to apply so the body paint hasn't been clear coated.

The skinny masking tape used on both these projects is from Jammy Dog and is available down to as narrow as .5 mm and very flexible so you can "draw" rounded curves without cutting into the surface. See: http://www.jammydog.com/index.htm

When removing the masking tape if possible I remove the tape while the paint is firm and set, but not fully cured. This helps avoid the possibility of the layers outside the masked area pulling up with the masking tape. Where I can't do this, for example in projects where I must apply decals before clear coats and there's matte surface that must remain protected, I will give the masked edges a light pass with a sharp #11 to make sure the masking tape pulls free without lifting the later coats up.

I hope this info proves useful and good luck on your project. Welcome back!

Bernard Kron Keep On Buildin'

  • Member since
    January, 2019
  • From: Sydney Australia
Posted by BarryS on Wednesday, January 09, 2019 3:46 PM

Thanks for taking the time to detail this process Bernard. It's been really helpful.

 

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