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Need help on building a 4 links suspension from scratch

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  • Member since
    May, 2004
  • From: Great White North
Need help on building a 4 links suspension from scratch
Posted by plymouth71 on Wednesday, May 14, 2014 11:38 AM

I'm working on a model for a friend, and I was going to use the prostreet setup on the 70 superbee kit, but I would like to try my hand at building a better replica of the 1:1 car.  I need some help on building the rear suspension. Any ideas on where to start?

Here is the rear end

 

 

 

  • Member since
    August, 2013
  • From: West Seneca, NY (Buffalo)
Posted by Snork56 on Wednesday, May 14, 2014 2:04 PM

If I was you Plym, I'd head for YouTube and check out the tube frame and chassis videos..  It's always a good idea to know some info on what you want to build, way before you start building it!  Also check the forum here for a very informative tube frame tutorial by a member who put it together for our members benefit!!!  And honestly with the picture you've got there, It's pretty self explanitory!

To get back up when you are down, fight when you are struggling, give the extra effort when you are in pain, come back when no one expects you to and stand up tall when people try to pull you down.    That is what makes up a true champion!!   Snork56 (S56) Henry D.  

  • Member since
    May, 2011
Posted by MIKE1017 on Saturday, May 24, 2014 10:09 AM

Scale Modeling By Chris sells a pro stock 4 link.Check it out.

The only easy day was yesterday.

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by Foxer on Saturday, May 24, 2014 12:18 PM

Consider each part as a model in it's own right and look at what plastic materials would make it .... It looks like some plastic rod and some sheet for brackets would do most of this. Add some resin nuts and there's not much else there.

  • Member since
    October, 2007
  • From: Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Posted by carmad1957 on Monday, June 09, 2014 7:42 AM

"Consider each part as a model in it's own right"....words to live by Foxer~

Plymouth, a 4 link is a fairly basic structure and there are several part builders out there who have available some really nice suspension parts at more than fair pricing I might add! I'd suggest contacting Ted over at  tedsmodelingmarketplace.com for the materials/supplies you'll need. As far as reference goes, wring out Google images(keywords: "4 link suspension")  for all it's worth and you'll end up with more than you need- and take it from there!


Carmad1957. Oklahoma City, Ok.

Take a peek at my webpage!  Carmad's Model House

  • Member since
    December, 2004
  • From: Umea Sweden
Posted by Force on Saturday, July 19, 2014 7:27 PM

I'm a little late here but that setup is not a 4-link, a 4-link is just what it says, 4 bars connecting the rear end to the chassis that allows the axle to travel up and down without changing the pinion angle.
A 4-link suspension has 4 mounting points on the rear axle and 4 on the chassis, not 4 and 2 as in the picture in the first post.
That setup is a modern interpretation of ladder bars.

Here is a picture of a typical 4-link setup for drag racing.

Håkan Persson Sweden

John Force 16X NHRA Funny Car Champion

  • Member since
    November, 2013
Posted by Daddy_O on Sunday, July 20, 2014 11:06 AM

Force is right, that's a 3-link setup that's becoming more popular lately.  Its easier to adjust on a 1:1 and is ideal for a Pro Street setup.

  • Member since
    January, 2005
  • From: Stuttgart Germany
Posted by showersg on Wednesday, January 21, 2015 7:39 AM

Here is how a set up my linkage when building:

1.  Lay out your frame points on the piece of paper.  Make sure everything is to each other.

2. Make a jig to hold the rear end and frame piece in place.

3. Use a caliper to get the distances for your rod.  For your build I would use styrene rod and some RB tie rod ends.  You have to drill a hole in the end of the styrene for the tie rod ends, so take your time when drilling.  Use a black marker to blacken the end of the styrene, this will allow you better see the end of the rod.  I then us the tip of a new #11 blade to start a pilot hole.  Use a small bit first, then the correct size for the tie rod end.

4. Test fit.  Test fit again.  Then test fit some more.  Use a drop of super glue to hole the parts together.  After all fits correctly lay down a good bead of super glue to all of the joints.  I have an old paint brush that I cut the bristles off, and then I shoved a piece of wire into the bristle end.  It made for a perfect gluing.

Hope this help you.  Cool           

On the shelf: Too Many!

  • Member since
    November, 2013
Posted by Daddy_O on Saturday, January 24, 2015 11:46 AM

That's not even a true 3-link setup.  a 3-link has the triangle bar on top and replaces the two separate bars..  The top bars on this pic are like none I've ever seen and might actually be a circle track setup.  

  • Member since
    January, 2011
  • From: Baytown, TX.
Posted by rigbuilder on Wednesday, May 13, 2015 8:42 PM

Thank you Force for posting that pic. That helps me out tremendously.

I love building models.

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