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1/12 Tamiya Yamaha YZR500 2001

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  • Member since
    July, 2014
  • From: Roswell, GA USA
1/12 Tamiya Yamaha YZR500 2001
Posted by Ergo Proxy on Wednesday, January 20, 2016 8:57 PM

I started this about a month ago. I'm using Scale Motorsports PE and CF decals. The PE and decals aren't specifically for this kit but the PE is an exact match for it. The CF patterns matched a few parts, but I had to make my own too. Anyway its still under construction. Here's a few photos:

The box art:

Front struts:

Top of handlebars:

The wheels:

A walk arond the bike:

Too many models to build in a lifetime.

  • Member since
    January, 2005
  • From: sunny Sydney, Australia
Posted by nottheband on Sunday, January 24, 2016 4:24 AM

Wow, those photos look like a 1:1 bike.  Great start.  Cheers

Steve

  • Member since
    February, 2008
Posted by justmike on Tuesday, January 26, 2016 5:57 PM

That is some great work. Those photo etch kits add so much. Are the brake discs photoetch? I will be looking to this build for pointers.

Feelings are like scents: The more they are analyzed, the worse they smell.
  • Member since
    July, 2014
  • From: Roswell, GA USA
Posted by Ergo Proxy on Wednesday, February 03, 2016 7:08 PM

Yes, the brake rotors are photo ethched. The rear brake is totally constructed from photo ethched. Here's a little more preparation on the tuned pipes. I clipped off all the mounting brackets and replaced them with the P.E. parts before painting:

Too many models to build in a lifetime.

  • Member since
    February, 2008
Posted by justmike on Sunday, February 07, 2016 8:11 PM

Can't wait to see how you paint those. I plan on using spastix to get the proper chrome look on the exhaust headers when I do mine.

Feelings are like scents: The more they are analyzed, the worse they smell.
  • Member since
    July, 2014
  • From: Roswell, GA USA
Posted by Ergo Proxy on Tuesday, February 09, 2016 7:40 PM

Here are the pipes with the heat staining done. I had to figure it out as I went along. I've done heat staining before. No two sets of pipes are alike. Here's this set:

Too many models to build in a lifetime.

  • Member since
    February, 2008
Posted by justmike on Wednesday, February 10, 2016 10:37 PM

Allright!!! Now I got questions!  Did you do alclad and then paint with a brush the blue ( and what kind of blue? ) and are the other staining colors; orange and goldish done by brush? I would love to get that look on the exhaust headers of the FZR I'm prepping right now.

Feelings are like scents: The more they are analyzed, the worse they smell.
  • Member since
    July, 2014
  • From: Roswell, GA USA
Posted by Ergo Proxy on Thursday, February 11, 2016 5:50 PM

Hi Mike. I'm glad you like them. I had to figure it out as I went along. But I do have a few "how to's" on doing it too. But I went further. So here's how I did it. First is my reference photo.

I used it because it is the closest thing I could find to the kit. It is very close. My pipes didn't come out exactly the same as I was hoping but it still came out pretty good. I also learned about doing this from someone at our ACME NNL. I remember this guy had a super detailed bike (he won a top 15 too). And he told me what he used. The Alclad colors. Below is a photo of what I used although I have more heat staining colors in addition to these:

So first was the AlClad black. Next I used the Alclad Holographic chrome. But you can use the Spaztiks chrome or polished alum too. Then next I used is AlClad Titanium Gold because I wanted to add the goldish hue and tone down the holographic chrome. After that I used a Silver Gel pen and went over all the weld beads to make them silver of course. Next I used (I forgot to photograph this) Tamiya Weathering Master (that stuff that applies like women's makeup). I smudged on the red and blue. Next was the Alclad Transparent Blue and Hotmetal Red. By the way I use a Grex Tritium airbrush. It has a "throttle stop" which I backed it down almost all the way. Then I test spray it to see how much I'm spraying. Plus I can get like about 1/8" from the pipe. So I carefully  spray back & forth applying the hues. But I saw it needed some golden color too it. I have Gold SNJ polishig powder (I don't know what you can substitute). I rubbed very little of it in places with a Q-tip. AND that is how I got those pipes looking that way. I really couldn't believe it. I mean its not really that hard to do. I remember the first time I ever saw heat stained exhaust systems on model I was just amazed. Well, I hope this helps you out Mike. Good luck. Remember, it's not really that difficult.

Too many models to build in a lifetime.

  • Member since
    February, 2008
Posted by justmike on Sunday, February 14, 2016 1:26 PM

Boy did you ever explain that well for me! I now have to see about purchasing those colors. Is the holographic better than Alclad's regular chrome stuff, Alclad 2 chrome? Thanks for the details. I have almost finished prepping the FZR and hope to start painting in a few weeks.

Feelings are like scents: The more they are analyzed, the worse they smell.
  • Member since
    July, 2014
  • From: Roswell, GA USA
Posted by Ergo Proxy on Sunday, February 14, 2016 1:59 PM

They are different but its a matter of the effect you are looking for. Have you ever done heat stainging before? Because no two look alike which gives you some freedom. You have to figure it out as you go along. The holograhic chrome adds to the effect when it's under some bright light. But you don't need to use it. You will still get a good effect with ordinary chrome or polished alum. I have another YZR500 2 stroke that has an etirely differen't heat stained effect because I used a different example photo I had found that was very close to that bike kit. Good luck and keep me posted with your pictures.

Here's pictures of the other YZR500 startting with the reference photo:

Here's the model:

Notice those little coil springs that hold the pipes to the engine. I made those myself from finw wire strands. I have to do the same for this bike too.

Too many models to build in a lifetime.

  • Member since
    February, 2008
Posted by justmike on Monday, February 15, 2016 10:17 PM

You really caught the effect of the heat staining on the very front of those exhaust headers. And its funny you mention those springs 'cause I just noticed them in a reference pic and I thought " Oh great, I wonder if I should try and imitate those?" I'll see. I am doing this model for a friend and need to decide how good a friend he is.Smile

Feelings are like scents: The more they are analyzed, the worse they smell.
  • Member since
    July, 2014
  • From: Roswell, GA USA
Posted by Ergo Proxy on Tuesday, February 23, 2016 8:08 PM

Hey Mike. Here's a whole buch more photos. Its looking more like a bike now. The pipes are installed now:

Too many models to build in a lifetime.

  • Member since
    May, 2014
  • From: Redcliffe, Queensland, Australia
Posted by Aussie Mick on Wednesday, February 24, 2016 12:06 AM

Looking good. You should put a black wash on the clutch. It will bring up the  detail a lot more. 

  • Member since
    February, 2008
Posted by justmike on Wednesday, February 24, 2016 11:38 AM

That is fantastic! The close-ups of fhe engine area look real. What a great job.  And thanks for all your suggestions when I start mine

Feelings are like scents: The more they are analyzed, the worse they smell.
  • Member since
    January, 2005
  • From: sunny Sydney, Australia
Posted by nottheband on Monday, February 29, 2016 1:54 AM

Your bike looks amazingly realistic, great job.  Thanx for sharing your techniques, I'll try the heat stain look when I start on my NSR500 Honda.  Cheers

Steve

  • Member since
    July, 2014
  • From: Roswell, GA USA
Posted by Ergo Proxy on Monday, March 07, 2016 7:52 PM

Well, it's finally done. It's not perfect as the decals gave me a little trouble. Here's the pictures:

Too many models to build in a lifetime.

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