1/12 Cord 812 Phaeton (a problem build)

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1/12 Cord 812 Phaeton (a problem build)

  •  Hi Guys - for the last couple of months I've been struggling with AMT's 1/12 Cord.   I hadn't planned on doing a WIP on this kit but to be frank it has got so bad that I thought I'd post a few bits as a warning to any one else out there planning on getting this thing out of the box in the future.  The pieces are clumsy and badly moulded and the fit absolutely atrocious but this can be overcome to a greater extent until we run across a fundamental problem that makes it almost unbuildable - and that's the doors! 

    Here's a shot of the body in primer after 10 days trying to sort it out.   Mainly again it's the doors that cause the problem.   The right hand side wasn't too bad but the left one was over 2mm too big to fit the aperture - other problems were just sink marks and flash, but we're used to that.

    The doors are meant to open and the windows wind up and this means that there is a cog mechanism on the inside - this works OK but makes the doors very thick (the glass holder is way too thick in my opinion) and heavy for the hinge.

    Here's the hinge - despite making sure that it is bonded well and as accurate as I can get it the door drops alarmingly when open.

    Now the real problem, after all that waffle....

    Look what happens when the dashboard is fitted

    Oops! the doors won't shut and this is after I have taken nearly 3mm off the front of the dash in an effort to move it forward to clear the interior door cards.  

    And that is where I'm at so far............................

    All I can think to do now is (1) either shove it all back in the box and forget about it or (2) carry out major surgery on the door inners, dump the thick windows with thinner acetate, forget the winders and thin down the door cards to let the doors close on the dash.  Whether I can still fashion some hinges, because they will go when the edges of the door cards are sanded down, remains to be seen.   It may end up with the doors bonded shut.

    Any comments or other useful ideas appreciated. 

    Martin 

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Beauty is in the eye of the beer-holder http://www.freewebs.com/martsmodels/
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  • I wish I could offer some help, I have 3 of these kits, but I haven't built any of them yet. I don't know if trashing the thick windows will work for you though, the window frame looks like it would still be the problem there. If you want, I could pull one of my kits out and see if I have the same issues, my kits are from the last reissue and don't have the roll up windows and working headlights. I also have many pictures from the ACD Museum in my photobucket, feel free to use them as referance. Also check the Auburn Parade albums.

    http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/slantasaurus/ http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/ad261/slantasaurus_2/ There are 3 things that will survive anything. Cockroaches, Keith Richards, and Slant 6 Dusters. "I'm not trying to change anybody's mind about anything, I'm just trying to ease my mind about everything" - Todd Snider
  • I think I would consider trashing the thick windows and would probably try to thin down the tops of the inner door panels too. I have one of these monsters in my basement too and I will look at it a bit more to see if I can be of any more help. May the force be with you!

    Eric

    Why can't I stand to slap these things together like I did as a teenager? On the bench 1930 Packard 734 Speedster Victoria, 1932 Duesenberg J Judkins Coupe, 1934 Ford Cabriolet, 1926 Ford Model Ts-the complete set of all six bodystyles.

  •  Thanks a lot for that offer - this is the older kit I think (gray box with yellow illustration #2424).

    Put plan 'B' into action last night and performed radical surgery on the door inner card on one side

    In doing this I've dumped the winding mechanism (who needs gimmicks anyway?) and the door fits nicely now (I'm sure Gordon Beuhrig didn't design 1-1/2 inch thick door glass - that's the scale thickness!).   I've spent so long on this thing ironing out problems that I just want to get it out of the way so don't think I'll bother trying to fashion new hinges as that would mean having to find a way to keep the door shut too.

    Now for the other side!!

    Haven't had a look at your refs yet but will do so now - thanks

     Martin
     

    Beauty is in the eye of the beer-holder http://www.freewebs.com/martsmodels/
  • I'm with you in this . I have recently given up on the OOOOhhhhh Coooool on parts functioning on my models . I want a nice display car on my shelves . No buldging appreatures .

         I am one of the kids in the '60's that clammored for Opening this and working that . It just cannot be done in Plastic . It doesn't have the Strengh of Steel . We are trying to build replicas with a different material . Look at Die Cast's if you may . The operating parts are out of scale . More so than Plastic .

         I'm gluing all of my doors shut . I've filed , fiddled anf fussed . I've haven't made a likable replica to ~my~ liking as of yet . My 2 cents" href="BLOCKED SCRIPTinsertSmiley('My 2 cents');">Thanx...     

    It is Stryene I'm addicted to ! Too many cars , too little time .
  • Well-- I wouldn't give up just because of fiddly things like too thick doors or delicate steering! It's your car, you can make it any way you like (that's my credo)! God knows how many cars I have that I just glued the doors & trunks shut, and the steering as well. It's not cheating, but a sturdier, more solid feeling car is the result. I concentrate on detailing and quality body painting in enamels (which is a challenge). Not whether "toy like" functions such as steering and doors opening should hold together. Anyway, I glue the wheels even, because if they roll really well, they might roll off the shelf! So don't feel you have to make it with everything opening. It's up to you.

  • The doors have both been done now and fit beautifully although they will be put on without the opening hinges.   The body can now be mounted on the chassis and I'll do that tonight but thought I'd post one more picture which covers two other weak points in this kit.

    The first one concerns the radiator which has a flange on both sides at its base so that it can sit on the chassis rails.   The width at the top is wider than the bodywork and although the bonnet (or hood) fits OK the body cannot be fitted with the rad in place and is supposed to be glued in after the engine and body  have been bonded to the chassis.    The trouble here is that those two flanges at the base won't allow it to fit inside the nose of the model.   To get over this I sawed off the flanges and fitted them directly onto the chassis flush with the rails.   This way the radiator can be slipped in and is the same height as it would have been originally.    You can see these in front of the steering box in the picture - they look a bit crude but can't be seen with the body on.

    Next is the steering box and poseable steering set up.    The tie rods are a bit tricky to fit and have the idler arms fitted into cups and this works OK until we get to the steering box itself which has a cog inside it which is supposed to be cemented to the pitman arm which then fits onto the drag link via another short piece and cup.   (with me so far? - you've probably gone to sleep by now!!)   I found that if it was done like that there was too much friction when the steering was moved and the cup on the drag link would keep opening up even though it appeared to be cemented tightly.   The cog in the steering box doesn't need to move because it isn't connected to the steering wheel in any way so I inserted a piece of alloy tube into the box and secured the pitman arm with a small self tapper.  At the other end of the arm there is another screw and washer fitted the other way round and fixed with CA glue into the cup (not visible in the picture).   Not a big modification but it now allows the pitman arm to move freely and the wheels can be turned with no problem. (the two large holes in the chassis are for the drive shafts which fit through the hubs when the engine is installed.   The idler arms through the hubs will be glued later to make sure the wheels are fitted in the straight ahead position).

    Thanks for your input so far - hopefully the build can go ahead now without any more problems.

     

    Martin 

     

    Beauty is in the eye of the beer-holder http://www.freewebs.com/martsmodels/
  • I'm glad you're finding these problems before I build my Cord. I just pulled out my kit to look through it. I started on the engine and painted a few other parts, but not too much done. Strange thing was the instruction sheet is missing, I have no idea where that might have gone, I haven't looked at this kit in several years. At least I have 2 other kits with instructions. All 3 of the kits I have are from the early 90's reissue. Looking at your pics, it looks like you have the yellow plastic late 70's issue. I think that was the last time the kit had working windows. I tried mocking up my doors and dash and didn't seem to have a problem in that area. I have a question for you, does your kit have the opening headlights ? I know the first issues of this kit had working headlights, but they didn't work/fit right and it was changed. The roll up windows were "deleted" in the reissues I have for the same reasons. In my kit the side windows can be up or down, but don't "work". Same for the steering, poseable, but not working. I'm gonna have to clear some space and start working on this kit myself.

    http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/slantasaurus/ http://s942.photobucket.com/albums/ad261/slantasaurus_2/ There are 3 things that will survive anything. Cockroaches, Keith Richards, and Slant 6 Dusters. "I'm not trying to change anybody's mind about anything, I'm just trying to ease my mind about everything" - Todd Snider
  •  Hi Ron - I didn't know there were so many variations of this kit.   Yes this one is the yellow bodied kit.

    Steering and windows only work - not the lights.   I had contemplated separating the covers and re-fitting them but in the end left them as they are.

    I put the three main body pieces together last night and have just slipped it over the chassis - went on a treat, no problem.   You'll find you can slide the engine in at any time and don't need to fix it to the chassis as in the instructions (in fact if it is in situ already the body is harder to fit, but you'll probably work that out for yourself).

    Good luck with it - Martin

    A bit of useless trivia for you - did you know....................the headlights were landing lights from the Stinson aircraft which was another Cord group company. 

    Beauty is in the eye of the beer-holder http://www.freewebs.com/martsmodels/