Foose Ford FD100 Pickup Is Completed

There should be a set of coil springs or coil overs here.  This metal axle can be seen when viewing the front suspension.

The first step is to fill in the notches in the frame.

More to come...

On the rear of the frame are these supports for the rear axle.  These have to go!

That's better!  Much more accurate, too!

More to come...

Just cut  short pieces of 1/16th plastic rod and glue them in the holes for the axles. Then glue the wheel backs to the little bit of rod that you have sticking out. This is pretty simple and it works.

That is all in my plan to make this FD100 a better model!  Thanks for the suggestion H/O!

I got the Roush 427 engine assembled and ready for primer and paint.  This engine will be painted black.

I plugged the hole in the oil pan with a piece of styrene I had lying on the bench.

It was pointed out that there is quite the gap between the cab and the bed wall.  I used my Dremel and a grinding bit removed some plastic from the running boards at the lower front fenders.  This helped close the gap.

More to come...

Hi Mike,

Just wanted to remind you that since you moved the bed/rear fender and running boards forward a bit you probably will have to move the rer axle forward a bit too to center the rear wheels in the rear fender opening.

Barry

Thanks Barry!  Actually the bed stayed in it's required spot.  I moved the cab back a little to close up the gap between the cab and the bed wall.  The front axle centerline is where it should be in the center of the fender opening.  Due to the molding of the bed and the running boards, the running boards push the cab forward slightly at the back of the front fenders.  There is a wee bit of a gap and I would like to close it up more, but I doubt that I would be able to, so I'll leave everything where it is and proceed to painting it all.

A little bit of progress to report.  The cab top leaves a bit of a gap above the rear window, so out came the Bondo to fill in the gap.

I inserted two lengths of 1/16 styrene rod into the back of the front wheels with some glue.

More to come...

I painted the wheel centers with Humbrol Metallic Grey and when that dried, I coated the wheels with two coats of Model Master Semi Gloss Clear.

The Roush 427 R motor got two coats of Model Master Aluminium Plate and two coats of Model Master Semi Gloss Clear.

More to come...

I've been considering this kit for a while. I like your progress, mrmike, really good stuff. I'm keeping an eye on this one!

PotatoCam

Inspite of the few little whoops on Revell's part, this is another good kit to build.  

Mr.Mike,

does the c6 have a separate transmission pan?

Yes, there is a seperate pan for the custom C6 transmission.

I painted the Foose FD100 this morning.

More to come...

Nice colour. That's going to look great with those wheels.

Thanks Trevor!  I'm not entirely happy with my paint job on the wheels.  I may strip them and start over.

Well, it had to happen.  My painting luck has turned against me.  At first, I thought the paint was so hot that is crazed the plastic, but I'm starting to think that the hot Testors paint reacted with the Tamiya primer.  This morning, I tried to polish the paint with some Meguirs Scratch X 2.0 and the rough surface turned smooth.  There is still no luster as I think the Tamiya primer may have been a little damp when I started to spray the Testors De Ja Blue One Coat Lacquer and the primer may have mixed with the paint.  I am planning on a wet-sanding session to see if the primer had mixed with the paint.  Time will tell...

More to come...

Well, it seems that I take two steps forward and one step back.  I didn't like the job I did on the wheels when I painted the spokes.  I tossed them into a container with Easy-Off to strip the chrome and paint and I'll start over.

The frame has it's suspension attached.   

The distributor has plug boots.  I just need to attach the base and paint it.

More to come...

aaahh yes! Easy Off. One of my most used painting ingredients.  Oh how I hate having to pull that stuff out from under the sink!

Absolutely!  I use the Fume Free formula so I can tolerate the smell!

I was looking at the interior parts and I noticed that the seat has no back to it.  I'm sure it doesn't show, but I had to put a back on the seat just to satisfy myself.

The wheels are out of the Easy-Off bath and were washed.  A little cleanup and they'll be mounted and ready for paint.

I haven't decided on using flocking or embossing powder for the carpet.  Decisions, decisions.

More to come...

I got the wheels painted with Tamiya TS-42 Light Gun Metal and trimmed with rim edge with my Molotow Liquid Chrome Pen.

I painted the side panels and dash with Tamiya TS-48 German Grey.  Not shown is the seat which was painted with the same paint.

The exhaust and the radiator where painted with Model Master Aluminium Plate Metalizer and then coated with Testors Semi Gloss Clear.

More to come...

Just before I had started this build, I had posted in Builder's Corner my dis-satisfaction with the two metal axles that were included with this kit.  I even described my solution to eliminating that axle from the front suspension and closing up the hole in the oil pan.  I was basically admonished by another member for taking this road and that straight out of the box, that axle would not be seen.  In the first picture, when looking straight up from the bottom of the chassis, you can clearly see the axle running from the frame outwards to the wheels.  My solution is filling in the slots in the frame and the holes in the oil pan.  The wheels wil be located via pins in the wheels and into the front uprights. 

The rear axle was going to be supported by two stanchions hanging down from the frame.  I eliminated those and chose to assemble the rear suspension and glue it to the frame and have it supported by the coil-over shocks just like a 1:1.

I wanted to demonstrate why I did this.  To me, this is far more accurate looking than the way Revell wanted this built from the box.  Now, I can move forward.  

More to come...

I applied the decals to the air cleaner and valve covers this morning.  I'll let these dry awhile, then spray some gloss clear over them.

I applied some decals to the engine and installed the MAD distributor.  Once the valve covers are on, I'll run the wires to the heads.

The wheels and disc brakes are all glued on so this FD100 is not going to roll off the table and hit the floor.  I did a mockup to check the stance and I like it!

More to come...

I love the stance too . and the colour , and the wheels .... 

Those HT leads are going to need one HELL of a spark to fire the motor from there !!!

I recently watched a re run of the "surprise!" Overhaulin' with this one . 

Thanks Spencer!

I wet-sanded the body to get rid of the trash and unevenness in the paint.  My goal was to prep the body for another coat of paint.

The 427 R Roush engine is now wired and installed in the chassis.

And, the interior is complete.

More to come...

The engine installation is complete with the upper radiator hose detailed and installed.

I had almost forgotten the coil-over shocks for the front suspension.

More to come...

I agree, nice work, I particularly like your interior, the small orange striping looks great.  Is the carpet embossing powder or flocking?  Cheers, thanx.

Steve