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1990 F150 4x4 WIP- It's Done!

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  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
1990 F150 4x4 WIP- It's Done!
Posted by basher on Sunday, May 8, 2011 7:59 PM

When I saw the Monogram F250 Super Duty kit, I thought, "Cool! I can build a model of my 1:1 truck, like this:

I got the kit, and discovered it is an F250 extended cab, with a V8, automatic trans, 4x2, power windows, bucket seats, body side moldings, and the wrong mirrors. My truck is none of those. Other than that, they are just the same!

So I added the Lindberg F150 Off Road, and the Monogram '80 Bronco. The Bronco has the right mirrors! Here's the kits:

To be continued:

 

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Orlando, Florida
Posted by tabbysdaddy on Sunday, May 8, 2011 9:31 PM

I'm going to do the same thing... eventually. I'll be watching.

"Why do they call them buildings when they're already done building them? They ought to be called builts." - Gallagher

 

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: Zion,IL
Posted by generaltso on Monday, May 9, 2011 8:34 AM

I've been thinking of replicating my 1:1 '88 Bronco with a similar combo. Guess I should follow along to. LOL

There's no replacement for displacement...

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Monday, May 9, 2011 5:49 PM

The first step was to sand off the body side moldings from the cab, bed, and tailgate. I thought this would be drudgery, but it wasn't too bad.

To be continued:

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: Zion,IL
Posted by generaltso on Monday, May 9, 2011 6:35 PM

Is the only thing you're using from the Lindberg the bench seat?

There's no replacement for displacement...

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Monday, May 9, 2011 8:07 PM

My Lindberg has bucket seats. I did use the tranny, transfer case, and starter. So far.

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Monday, May 9, 2011 8:24 PM

Got the cab cut down. Turns out 3/4" masking tape is just right for marking what needs to be removed. I put a strip up each side of the cab, covering the back window, and connected them with another strip across the roof. Traced along both sides of the tape, and that gave me two parallel cut lines.

I cut inside the lines with my razor saw, flat sanded the front and back parts of the cab, and taped them together.

Ran some liquid cement around the seam inside the cab. Standard cab!

Advice and comments appreciated

To be continued:

 

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: Zion,IL
Posted by generaltso on Wednesday, May 11, 2011 8:11 AM

Nice work man! Made it look easy LOL. Cant wait to see how this turns out.

There's no replacement for displacement...

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Wednesday, May 11, 2011 8:40 PM

Next the interior bucket. Pretty much the same as the cab.

 

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Wednesday, May 11, 2011 8:49 PM

None of the kits had a bench seat, except the back seat of the Bronco. It was much too narrow. So I cut it in half, and cut the center section out of the  F250 seat.

I cut the backrest off the F250 center section, and replaced it with a piece of sheet styrene. Then put the whole works together.

It doesn't match my vinyl bench seat perfectly, but it'll do.

To be continued:

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Wednesday, May 11, 2011 11:28 PM

generaltso

Nice work man! Made it look easy LOL. Cant wait to see how this turns out.

The cab was purty easy, general. I spent a fair amount of time sanding to get a nice tight seam, and to make sure everything was even on both sides, but that's about it. Cut and strut!

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Thursday, May 12, 2011 7:37 PM

Time to cut the frame. I didn't trust myself to keep it straight, so I built this jig. The rear frame section can move forward while still being in alignment.

I wanted a strong joint without adding reinforcing plates that would make the frame rails thicker, so I decided to use a half lap joint. I had to cut away parts of the floor pan to make that joint.

I made a 3/4" half lap, put it back in the jig, and welded it. Here is the finished frame.

Just as strong as the original frame, and with a little sanding, you'll never find the joints. Smile

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Saturday, May 14, 2011 2:48 PM

Time to start making this thang into a 4x4. The Bronco front axle matches my truck, but the front crossmember on the F250 frame sits much too low. Whackin' time again. I glued a piece of styrene on the back of the crossmember to hold it while I cut it, and to make it wider.

Then cut off the bottom:

Added a new bottom, and a piece on the front to match the back.

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Saturday, May 14, 2011 2:56 PM

My truck has dual front shocks, so I used sheet styrene to widen the shock mounts, and to make bosses to hold the springs.

Made some shocks out of aluminum tube, and stole some springs out of ball point pens.

Had to scratch some shock mounts for the front of the axle, and we're good to go!

To be continued:

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: pottsville pa 17901
Posted by Michael J Murphy SR on Wednesday, May 18, 2011 8:38 PM

that is amazing the work you do i cant wait to see this one doen its some amazing work.awsome job i mean that i wish i had 1% of that talent

have a good one yall!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Thursday, May 19, 2011 1:13 PM

Thanks, Michael. I'm doin' the best I can.

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Thursday, May 19, 2011 1:19 PM

Now for the rear end. This is the stance I'm looking for:

The stock rear end sits too low. Fortunately, Ford solved that by putting riser blocks between the axle and the springs. I did the same. Added new U-bolts and shocks.

 

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Thursday, May 19, 2011 1:25 PM

My 1:1 truck has  a receiver hitch, So I made this one.

Some square brass tube, styrene square tube and sheet, and a little piece of aluminum sheet.

To be continued:

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: North Carolina
Posted by barrett37 on Thursday, May 19, 2011 1:30 PM

man i have to say, that is some really nice work. cant wait to see more.

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Thursday, May 19, 2011 1:38 PM

Thanks barrett, I will keep on keepin' on.

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Thursday, May 26, 2011 9:50 PM

The tie rod on the F250 is bass ackwards! It is even backwards from the way it is shown in the instructions. It should bend up with the steering box connection away from the axle. By the time I got it bent into the right shape, it was about ready to break. Plus, I didn't like the way it was just hangin' out in the breeze, so I built a steering box.

Here is the finished frame.

And the finished frame with the receiver hitch and spare.

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Thursday, May 26, 2011 10:00 PM

Now to make this thing a manual transmission. The Lindberg gear shift is perfect, the transfer case shifter, not even close.

The transfer case shifter is kinda notched into the tunnel, so I added a block under the boot, and made a new lever. It will get a blob of epoxy to make a knob. (Sorry about the crappy photos.)

The shifters are in place, had to add a clutch pedal, manual transmission! Now I can cut the prndl off the steering column.

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Thursday, May 26, 2011 10:08 PM

No power windows in a work truck! I sanded off the power window controls, and made some cranks.

Here is the finished interior. Yes, there is a little dot of blue paint in the middle of the steering wheel.Wink

Advice and comments always welcome.

To be continued:

 

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: NorCal
Posted by Rodent on Thursday, May 26, 2011 11:08 PM

Awesome! This is turning out much better than I imagined it would when we were discussing paint colors! You are using a Kitchen Table Resin 4.9, right?

-- Steve

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Friday, May 27, 2011 7:54 AM

Thanks Steve, Yeah, I'm using the 4.9l, with parts from all three trucks. Turns out that paint is still an issue tho. You were dead on with the Wimbeldon white, I sprayed some on the 1:1 truck and you can't tell it's there. I sprayed the underside of the bed on the model, tho, and it looks really dark and yellow/brown, especially inside. I'm thinking of going with a plain white instead, even tho it's not technically correct.

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Barrie Ont. Canada
Posted by crewsy on Friday, May 27, 2011 6:56 PM

basher

Got the cab cut down. Turns out 3/4" masking tape is just right for marking what needs to be removed. I put a strip up each side of the cab, covering the back window, and connected them with another strip across the roof. Traced along both sides of the tape, and that gave me two parallel cut lines.

I cut inside the lines with my razor saw, flat sanded the front and back parts of the cab, and taped them together.

Ran some liquid cement around the seam inside the cab. Standard cab!

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/z412/whozit1/F%20150/f150060.jpg

Advice and comments appreciated

To be continued:

 

 

I did the same thing to the cab of the Ford F-350 Dually. I didn't finish it though. Maybe I should look for it and finish what I started.

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: NorCal
Posted by Rodent on Saturday, May 28, 2011 4:45 PM

I'm not sure if it is the color or the paint itself. My AMT '66 Mustang looks OK outside or under a Reveal light bulb. It looks REALLY brown under flourescent light inside. I also have a "daylight" CFL that it looks OK under. It seems browner than I remember the 1:1 cars were. I could swear that 1:1 Wimbleton White was somewhat whiter than the later Colonial White truck color.

I had a white 5.0 Mustang when my dad bought a Colonial White Ranger STX 4x4 in 1987. The Ranger made the Mustang look like a refrigerator and the Mustang made the Ranger look beige. I inherited the Ranger in 2003 when my dad passed away and sold it a few years later.

-- Steve

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Saturday, May 28, 2011 9:41 PM

Hey Steve, Yeah it's definitely worst indoors under flourescent light. It looks like my almond refridgerator. (That tells you how old my fridge is.) Even under regular incandescents, it looks dark. Strangest of all, I held the model up against the part of the 1:1 where I sprayed the Testors, in direct sunlight, and it still didn't match, that was pretty close, tho. This thing is most likely to be seen indoors, so I'm gonna use something whiter.

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Monday, May 30, 2011 12:36 PM

I really wanted to ignore these blobs of plastic on the fender. I just can't do it. They gots to go!

They're gone!

Filled in.

  • Member since
    November 2010
  • From: Virginia
Posted by basher on Monday, May 30, 2011 12:40 PM

While I was at it I cut off the air cans. I will replace them later. You can also see part of the new heater blower.

Cleaned off the firewall. The cut out, set back section is like the 1:1, to make room for the 4.9L. Added a new heater blower and a clutch master cylinder. Hard to see, this stuff will show up better after paint.

To be continued:

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