Aston Martin Db4-1/25 Revell Monogram...A detailed Story!-Update May 14, 2012

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Aston Martin Db4-1/25 Revell Monogram...A detailed Story!-Update May 14, 2012

  • For a last alteration of the out of the box components, I cutted the turn signal switch and place instead a metal pin length. Again, with glue and satin black paint made the knob.   Finally, everything is together in place...      


  • One of the main attractions of the cockpit is this correct great Derrington Steering wheel kit from Replica & Miniatures of Maryland. I thought to use a Renaissance Nardi one, but, it would be completely incorrect. It comes with the two real wood halves, the photo etch rim, and metal line to make the rivets.   I started sanding it until I could see the light through the inner part of the wood halves.    Finally, the wooden parts for the steering wheel are off.  The rim was perfectly polished, but, I had to hold the temptation to leave as it is, because the correct factory stock look is covered by satin black paint.   After glue the halves, the metal lines are placed trough the rim and the wood. After that a nail cutter is used to give it a flush cut.   Uffff, after 4hours!!!...I finished the part. Next, masking and paint the center.   I take out some old cans of real wood paints and make some tries to see which color I would use. The upper right corner was the winner, after I painted it, I should use the upper center minwax one, but, it was already painted!:confused: Final look: 


  • Toggle switches from Sakatsu, their knobs made out of metal tubing and photo etch washers and photo etch bolt heads made everything look real different. Here's how the final dash looks.
  • Masking tape was used to do the shift stick boot and the emergency brake level boots. The shift stick is a Sakatsu one that I altered its shape with my Dremel and the Emergency level with metal tubing.     The side floor panels also were treated with flocking and also were scribed in order to get the lined pattern. Vents controls were made out of thin wire and the knobs are white glue with semi gloss black paint.   General overview of the seats area.   A last time view to the out of the box dash look.     The Dremel and this tiny polishing swabs help me to open the enclosing for the gauges and toggle switches.   I chucked in my Dremel a Sakatsu toggle switch and re-shape it in order to make the glove box lock.   Some bare metal foil to the molding and this is how it looks now.   Model Car Garage black gauges faces and its bezels made the perfect combo for what I had in mind. In order to get the deep look of the bezels, I stocked them one over the other and have what I wanted.    


  • Before the new update, I have to give credit to my good friend Dave Morton who pointed me a misplace of the rear brake lines to the correct master cylinder. After had spent so much time looking the underside upside, I forgot what goes up and what goes down:tongue: Here's the correct placement, thanks Dave!  Ok, here I will go from the downside to the cockpit of the car. Like I said at the beginning, I won't follow the instructions order due to a modification I did to the body. I started painting the two basic shades for the carpet and leather upholstery. Light blue for carpet, dark for the leather.   I did two simple floor carpets from sandpaper and wire to replicate the molding. Everything was treated with white primer in order to give a light shade of color for the base of the light blue that will be used as a base for the flocking.    The protective carpet guard was made out of plastic sheet. I lightly scribed them in order to replicate the lined pattern on them   Same treatment for the carpet guards.  


  • Dear Porsnatic,

      I really think you should have tried a little harder..... I mean all that work, a few  hundred more hours and you could have made the brakes actually work! LOL.

      Nice, work, love the detail and how you did it. Great photo's, I'm sure a lot of people are enjoying watching the progress.


    Thanks for posting this.
  • I can only hope that by the time I get to a point where I would even attempt something like this that it will turn out half as good.  What an incredible amount of work and the detail is superb.  You will have to display this model upside down you know

    Feelings are like scents: The more they are analyzed, the worse they smell.
  •  Wow! I'm very impressed with the detail and effort you're putting into this build. This Aston will be stunning when you're done.

    Keep up the great work.

    Mike "Good hands, bad taste in cars." Yes I'm a grown up 'playing' with toys but a lot of adults my age drink beer or play computer games - and I've got something to show for the time and money I've spent...
  • Gereral view of everything together.


  • This photo etched alternator bracket was used to make the connector to the whole assembly with the tube that comes from the lever.

    Already in place.

    I use THE DETAILER black ink to enhance the grooves in the guitar string.

    Plastic squares used to make the brake fluid line on the chassis.


    The caliper section.

  • The connector for the brake master cylinder.

     The hardest part to design..the mechanism that action the emergency cables by the handbrake lever. In the red circle section the part intended to replicate.

    I started using a guitar string that has the perfect scale look and grooves. Aluminum sheet again to replicate the connectors.

    More plastic using to make the other unions...ufff more, and more trying and hard work with so small parts!

    All the the components before painting.

  • The bridge pipe assembly made out of cooper wire and tiny nuts.

    I used this picture in order to make the rear emergency system.

    Plastic sheets, wire and plastic rod used to make the system..uff..lots of work!

    Already in place along with the calipers.

    Another view

    This picture was used to make the three way union for the brake fluid feed.
    I used plastic rod, cooper wire and nuts.

    The parts in place.

  • In this update I will covering the plumbing of thet brake system under the car.

    I started working on a scrathbuild caliper, since the model comes just with a engraved over the plastic disc. I cutted it in order to used it as a template to make new ones from a plastic sheet.

     After I discarded the plastic disc, I picked up a Detail Master solid one which I chucked to my Dremel in order to have a better used look.

    After I did the Dremel treatment, this how it looks in comparison to an untreated on. Looks more real.

    Using a plastic rod, I sliced it to make discs that will simulate the piston housing. Then, I primed them and painted them closely so the paint cover the crack between the caliper and this housing so it can be shown as just one part.

    Worked an aluminum sheet to make the caliper

    Some primer

    A silver paint base

    Finally the silver-gold color

  • Hey rossa156, this one looks real good. Thanks to all you guys for your kind comments. I've been working real hard this past days on the model. I will add some progress this week, look for it.

  • I, too, have the '97 release kit. I haven't detailed it that much...just some engine details. It turns into a nice model, even for being ancient. It looks great next to my Ferrari GTOs.  Sort of a slice of time in GT racing.