Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Triumph TR3A from Gunze Sangyo

12 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November, 2004
  • From: New York, Paris, Hamilton?
Triumph TR3A from Gunze Sangyo
Posted by Chillyb1 on Monday, March 02, 2009 4:38 PM

 Here's my completed Triumph TR3A from the Gunze kit. This is the basic curbside version derived from their High-Tech series kit. I'm calling it finished even though I left off the windshield and a couple of other minor parts. The paint is Tamiya TS-43 Racing Green from the spray can on top of Tamiya primer. The chrome is Alclad. I added wire along the fenders to simulate the little dealies (what's the word I'm looking for?) on the real car. They should extend all the way to the door from both the front and the back, but I wasn't going for exactness only trying out a new technique. I switched out the seats with a Fujimi Porsche 356 because the ones that came with the kit were molded in that weird rubbery plastic Gunze uses and they looked terrible.

The best part is the photoetch badge on the front. I had to paint it so I hope you can see the detail.
 It was a fun little build.

Enjoy. Comments, criticisms, suggestions, et cetera welcomed.


  • Member since
    November, 2005
Posted by thatguy01 on Monday, March 02, 2009 4:51 PM

The lines on top of the fenders are called beading.  It's used instead of lead or filler to join the gap between the fender parts.

  • Member since
    September, 2007
  • From: the hills of Tennessee
Posted by coopdad on Monday, March 02, 2009 5:22 PM
Great job on the "large mouth". I have a "small mouth" in the works myself.
Love the use of the wire for the beading.
Are you going to add the windscreen or leave it off?
  • Member since
    January, 2006
  • From: Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, Australia
Posted by zenrat on Monday, March 02, 2009 8:00 PM

That's great.

Green looks a bit light for British Racing Green/Brunswick Green (if that's what you were aiming for) but then that might be down to camera settings or lighting.
Doesn't detract from a great job though.  Well done.

It's the 21st Century. Where's my Jet Pack & Flying Car? On the bench - detritus mainly.

Ninjas don't have pockets.

  • Member since
    November, 2004
  • From: New York, Paris, Hamilton?
Posted by Chillyb1 on Tuesday, March 03, 2009 9:52 PM

Thank you, thatguy; "beading" is the word I was looking for but for some reason my brain refused access to that portion of my vocabulary.

I think I'm going to leave the windshield off because installation seems to me to be a recipe for disaster. This was meant to be a fun and quick build and I don't need the aggravation. 

Zen, Tamiya has a Racing Green (TS-43) and a British Green (TS-9); this is the look I was going for and the camera/lighting have actually captured it pretty well.  I have some of the British Green but want to use it on a different project.

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by guiwee1 on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 1:19 AM

As usual chilly you did an excellent that the same model from your "rattle can " post....incidently the mud on the 206 was made using mig prods.

  • Member since
    July, 2007
  • From: Lawrenceville, Georgia
Posted by kevinm on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 2:33 PM

Beautiful Brit! Gotta love the British racing green! Thumbs Up By the way, the badge looks great! -kevin

On The Bench: Ferrari 575 SuperAmerica Photobucket:
  • Member since
    February, 2008
Posted by justmike on Wednesday, March 04, 2009 11:22 PM

I agree with KevinM that badge is very well done

Feelings are like scents: The more they are analyzed, the worse they smell.
  • Member since
    January, 2004
  • From: Detroit, MI
Posted by kenmascia on Sunday, March 08, 2009 6:57 PM

Hey Chilly,  nice job on this!  I built the TR3 from gunze last year.  I thought it was a pretty excellent kit with a really cool PE frame.  Did this one have the PE frame?  great paint and an overall excellent build job.  Thanks for sharing it

 I hate to highjack your post but here's a pic of my completed TR3

  • Member since
    November, 2004
  • From: New York, Paris, Hamilton?
Posted by Chillyb1 on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 4:26 PM


Hey Chilly,  nice job on this!  I built the TR3 from gunze last year.  I thought it was a pretty excellent kit with a really cool PE frame.  Did this one have the PE frame? 


Ken, I remember when you posted yours. A very nice build. No, this one does not have the pe frame. It would probably have driven me crazy trying to assemble. I feel like the HIgh-Tech version of these Gunze kits are likely to be much better overall, while the ones derived from them are less satisfying. Parts fit and placement are approximate at best and the instructions seem more like vague hints rather than clear directions. Anyway, it looks pretty nice from a few feet away. 

  • Member since
    November, 2003
  • From: Atlanta GA
Posted by Zoom Zoom on Wednesday, March 11, 2009 4:56 PM

Looks good; I just picked up the "Historic Racer" version this weekend. I'm kind of kicking myself for not getting the LeMans racer version there as well. Marked $15 apiece...$35 got me the TR3 and an Italeri 250 SWB, both mint/unbuilt. Talk about a good day at the vendor tables!

The stock windscreen does look a bit intimidating with the way it's constructed, but if you take your time and were careful you should be able to get it fit. BMF the frame, attach the top and bottom gaskets, then attach the A pillar uprights.

Mine will be built as the racer, so I'll use the mini windscreen.


Zoom Zoom, aka Bob Downie My Fotki Album The only cure for modeler's ADD is "final assembly and decal placement"
  • Member since
    April, 2017
Posted by Hitchy on Sunday, April 09, 2017 10:40 AM

Hello!  I'm a new subscriber, but a long-time modler.  I just wanted to compliment you on a nice build.  I'd bidding on the same kit on ebay  at present.  My uncle had a 1958 TR3A when I was a kid... black with red upholstery and a white top, as well as the first set of Michelin Xstop tires I ever saw.   

I was a graphic designer by prrofession, and one of the things I learned in Color Fundementals in college is that the smaller an object is, the darker a given color looks.  It's just a trick the eye plays on us.  Real BRG would simply look too dark on a 1:24 scale model.  This is why auto touch-up paint makes a model look "funny".  Colors need to be backed-off a shade in Value (lightness / darkness) to look correct.  Also, here's a tip for all readers I learned building model airplanes:  black (even "scale" black) is too black to realistically represent rubber.  Try using Dark Umber acrylic from a craft store for rubber trim, tires, etc.  Results in a much more scale appearence.  You can always add a little black or charcoal (warm) gray. The Martha Stewart brand is splendid if your can find the color you want in the desired refelctivity.  $2.00 for 2 fl. oz. vs $4.00+ for 0.5 fl. oz. of Testors.  Any brand of "oudoor" or "patio" paint is not delicate once it has cured for twenty-four hours.  50% rubbing alcohol is an excellent reducer.  Not knocking Testors or Tamiya... I have a paint case full of both.

You are correct about doping the plated parts with Alclad because the "chrome" is too intense.  I have found that Alclad lacquer works best over a smooth, dark surface.  The darker and smoother the substrate, the better.  Even Alclad suggests using their shiney black primer for best results.

BTW, the trim between the fender ("wing") sections on English cars of that period is called "welting", and the padded finishing trim around the cockpit is referred to as "coaming".  Uncle used to buys rolls of welting from J. C. Whitney and it came in various colors.  Pre-war American cars used the stuff too.


  • Member since
    August, 2016
Posted by mini man on Monday, April 24, 2017 1:06 PM

A very nice build,I have the Airfix repop of the Gunze kit and it has a p.e. chassis...ConfusedZip it!

Will build most anything,love American cars muscle etc.Britishvehicles are a buzz too,trucks are great - want to do a jet truck,building parts up...


P.S.N.I. Officer.


Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.


By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our privacy policy