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Lola T-70 Mk III

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159 replies
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  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, January 23, 2020 9:46 AM
I machined tool to make controlling the parting line in the wheel molds easier. 
It locks into the back of the wheel center like the rear piece of the rims.
Clay is used to seal one side.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Sunday, January 26, 2020 2:00 PM
Then I cast the side that contains the face of the wheel in RTV so that the seams are all on the inside of the wheel and quite minimal at that.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: CA Gold Country foothills.
Posted by mishalah on Saturday, February 1, 2020 7:40 AM
Those valve covers are outstanding!

"Help me....I've fallen and I can't get up."...my models are crushing me. my pics: https://public.fotki.com/dallas916/

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Saturday, February 1, 2020 7:17 PM

Thanks!

 

The half-shafts are done for now.  The yokes are cast resin (dyed black) copies of 3D parts.
The shafts are brass acid treated for the dark finish. 
Each U-joint has four bearings/caps (with E clips) and they work.  The half-shafts telescope too.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    January 2020
  • From: Florida USA
Posted by Gooch01 on Saturday, February 1, 2020 8:36 PM

Excellent work your cad work is spot on next-level stuff.  

Regards 

Dave 

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, February 5, 2020 6:07 PM

Thanks Dave!

 

I was going to have to adjust the rotor hubs (or make shims) so I decided to mill a new one out of resin stock instead of editing the 3D file and growing a replacement.  This was quicker too.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by mustang1989 on Thursday, February 6, 2020 7:59 AM

Always good to pop in on this one and see the work going on. Lookin' good so far.

Being really stupid is the new smart!! 

    Joe

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Sunday, March 8, 2020 4:21 PM
I designed and then grew the rotors several times over the course of a few months.  The detail I want is just not something my printer can do on both sides.  (One side is great.)  I redesigned them adding more material so I could post-machine  after growing them, but the material is too brittle when cured, and too soft and pliable before fully curing.  I was able to make them look really good after machining, but every one of them had micro fractures (or worse) that would show up under paint.
The good side of them:
The rough side of them before machining:

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Sunday, March 8, 2020 4:52 PM
So after way too much time and effort without acceptable results, I went back to my original plan to make the rotors before I got the 3D printer…  Good old machining.
First I milled in the rectangular vent holes around the perimeter.
Then I cross-drilled 60 holes in each side.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Monday, March 9, 2020 3:55 PM
As satisfied I was at the time, the more I looked the more I thought I could do better…  So more time on the mill and now I think I have what I want.  These cross-drilled holes scale out to ¼ inch in diameter.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

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