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Lola T-70 Mk III

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114 replies
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  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Saturday, September 14, 2019 7:06 PM
I used the Lola kit header tubes but had to make the ends that go into the head smaller diameter.  Originally they were a constant diameter the same as the tubes.  I made a tool from an old collet to uniformly cut those ends down to a 0.13 diameter.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Saturday, September 14, 2019 7:22 PM
New header flange also designed in SolidWorks.  Heavy duty 3/8 inch thick flange for the 1- 7/8 diameter big tube headers to come.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Monday, September 16, 2019 8:54 PM
I started working over the Z/28 water pump I copied in resin, but I realized it wasn't the best choice for this application let alone an accurate piece even for what it is supposed to represent.  The shorter Corvette pump with the oversized bearing was more appropriate even though in the end it will hardly be visible, and it will buy me more space since the engine I'm using is longer than the kit provided one.
The Tamiya water pump actually was closer looking to the short style even though it didn't measure out or and has some "interesting" details.
Here's the Lola kit part.
Having a real pump at my feet made it a lot easier to modify the part into a more accurate rendition.  It still needs the mounting hardware and heater hose fitting to be machined and the sand cast texture to be added.
I also started reworking the harmonic balancer.  I shaved it down to a proper 8" diameter and installed a brass sleeve.  I also cut the timing mark into it.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    March, 2019
  • From: Quitman, Texas
Posted by LostInStyreneAnd... on Tuesday, September 17, 2019 7:39 AM

I feel my fingers cramping and my eyes starting to hurt just Looking at all the detail!  What an Incredible build!   Geeked

Eric Automobile

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Tuesday, September 17, 2019 10:01 PM

Thanks.  My fingers get taxed sometimes too.

 

I machined a billet aluminum water pump pulley.  It's dual & deep grooved so I can run the same belt set up I have on my real car and add an alternator to this car.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, September 18, 2019 9:05 PM
Here's the matching crank pulley.
Both loosely sitting on the engine.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, September 20, 2019 9:41 AM
I made some washers and bolts and added the pump shaft and set up the mounting system for the pump pulley…
Video:
https://i.imgur.com/hpinOnZ.mp4

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Sunday, September 22, 2019 7:56 PM
I installed more magnets to attach the heads to the block.
The four holes on each head where the valve train would be are to mount the valve covers.
 
I got the bellhousing I designed back from Fraxional.  They did an excellent job of 3D growing it.  Other than removing the supports on the face that mounts to the engine, this is how it came to me.  A tiny bit of clean up is in order as it is not the higher resolution they offer.  (It was provided as a "test shot" but it is good enough to use.)
 
It aligns to the block with two dowel pins like the real ones.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Tuesday, September 24, 2019 8:56 PM
Since the exhaust port spacing on my heads is different on than the Tamiya parts I had to modify the rear of the inboard tubes to meet the collectors.
I used the header flanges I drew that were printed by Fraxional and fitted the tubes to them and the heads.
And they are mounted into the heads with magnets…

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, September 27, 2019 10:43 AM
Removable front engine cover for the interior.  Since the engine I'm building is larger than the kit provided item, and I'm using a dual belt pulley set-up, I had to make room for the water pump pulley.
Before:
After:

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    March, 2019
  • From: Quitman, Texas
Posted by LostInStyreneAnd... on Monday, September 30, 2019 1:30 PM

Bow  What an Incredible Job!   I am in awe of the detail!

Eric Automobile

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, October 02, 2019 5:15 PM

Thanks Eric!

 

I had Fraxional grow me a second bellhousing after I reengineered the center section where the transmission mounts to it.  (Very easy to deal with this 3D printing service.)
More magnets are used to hold these sub-assemblies together.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, October 04, 2019 8:05 PM
Since I'm not using the magneto (I'll make a distributor) I have to add an alternator.  I designed a proper Delco-Remy alternator in SolidWorks and it will be printed by Fraxional. 
To make it look more realistic I made it in four main pieces.  I'll machine the pulley later as well as the other hardware and electrical connectors.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Monday, October 07, 2019 1:15 PM
Now that I have the bellhousing to positively locate the engine, I can start to make the front motor mounts.  Good old sheet styrene fabrication…
Front:
Rear:
Dry fitted:

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Monday, October 07, 2019 7:38 PM
Once I mocked up the heads with the headers on the engine in its final orientation due to the motor mounts I could see the headers should have a little more clearance around the rear shock upper mounting points.  They fit, but I wouldn't want the heat from them on a real car.
I used a metal wedge and a hair dryer to bend the pipes.
I had to replace the header flanges too, luckily Fraxional provided me with a second set before I decided to make this change. 
I also had to lengthen the inboard pipes on both headers with some Plastruct tubing.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    January, 2004
  • From: CA Gold Country foothills.
Posted by mishalah on Thursday, October 10, 2019 11:00 AM
At this point here, why didn't you just use steel or aluminum rod?

"Help me....I've fallen and I can't get up."...my models are crushing me. my pics: https://public.fotki.com/dallas916/

  • Member since
    January, 2004
  • From: CA Gold Country foothills.
Posted by mishalah on Thursday, October 10, 2019 11:37 AM

This is obviously a seriously complex and uber-detailed RE-build of what most of us assumed was a fairly accurate kit.  The amount of correction is both astounding and disheartening. 

I started this kit over 10 years ago, even bought a second one to make another version.  I made a tub from aluminum sheet and then set it aside to work on the engine, thinking I was making progress toward a better replica.  After making flared chrome intake stacks from (believe it or not) radio antenna tubes, I was working on making the exhaust better.  Then....I was told that the engine that Tamiya gave us in this version was NOT the correct one at all.....that it should be the Aston Martin DOHC V8.  Ummm...CRAP.  So, I stopped and started looking for a way to replicate that engine.  :(  Eventually, Best Balsa Kits out of Belgium came up with a whole, seriously detailed, fully pieced out version of the Aston Martin (5.0 L, I think) engine.  It looks incredible...but so is the price (around $400)).  I stopped there and put both kits away.  They sit and will most likely never get done because I have too many other WIPS and too little time...and my eyes and hands are failing me.  I love this gorgeous example of what racing gave us back then, but my brain will not let me do a half-ass job, and my arthritic/diabetic body won't let me do the work I need to.  :(  :(  :( 

 

Your work is an inspiration to serious builders.  I noticed you have a couple of sources to make parts.  I also have a 1/8 Entex Porsche RSR Turbo that stopped me at rebuilding the engine to proper configuration with the fan and alternator bracket and drive assembly that was actually used.  I never could get an accurate bracket shaped by hand, so I put that one aside.  I have LOTS of pics of the real thing, so I would really like to hand that odff to an expert parts creator.  Possible???

"Help me....I've fallen and I can't get up."...my models are crushing me. my pics: https://public.fotki.com/dallas916/

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Monday, October 14, 2019 3:59 PM

No need to make more work for myself when the kit pipes were already properly molded.  There were no header flanges in the kit, and even if there were, they would have been too small for the heads I am using. 

Have you bent steel rod in that diameter before?  I have, it's a lot of work.  Same for aluminum in comparison to plastic.  Since they are not going to be raw metal finished it simply is not worth the extra work.

 

The engine in the Tamiya kit is the correct Small Block Chevy engine for the car the kit builds. 

 I do side work so yes, I might be interested in working with you on your Porsche parts.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Tuesday, October 15, 2019 3:04 PM
Rear hub carriers.  Step one, remove the brake calipers.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, October 16, 2019 9:05 AM
Front spindles.  Step one, remove the brake calipers.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, October 16, 2019 12:27 PM
Rear lower control arms.  Left is kit part as it comes.  On the right is the reworked one ready for brass and aluminum hardware upgrades.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, October 16, 2019 6:23 PM
Reworked and assembled rear hub carriers.  Brass tubing was added for the hinge points and open holes.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, October 17, 2019 12:45 PM
I added two more "ears" to the front bulkhead for the front shock and upper control arm mounting points (per photos of real T-70s).

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, October 17, 2019 7:48 PM
Front upper control arms as they come in the kit.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July, 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, October 18, 2019 4:24 PM
New fittings and bushings for the front pivot points.  Machined aluminum & brass with steel reinforcements.
Both arms with upgraded front bushings and adjusters.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

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