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Top Fuel Dragster advice

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  • Member since
    May 2008
Top Fuel Dragster advice
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 4, 2004 3:08 PM
After I finish my current kit ('77 Jeep CJ-7), I am going to build Revell's Tony Schumacher U.S. Army Top Fuel Dragster. Does anyone who has built this kit have any pictures or advice before I do? Are there any problem areas or anything especially tricky about it? Why is it skill level 3 instead of 2? It has the same parts count as most level 2 kits, so is it just because of all the decals or what? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Daytona Beach, FL
Posted by 1320wayne on Saturday, January 24, 2004 5:15 PM
There are different techniques that you can use with limited detailing efforts to really bring out a good OOB. The kit is no more compliceted to build than any one of Revell's older dragster kits. So I don't know why they made it a skill level 3.
If you want to make a true replica of the U.S. Army dragster then you will have to make some changes to the kit. The box art is the best source of info. for the changes. The rear wing sides are wrong and will have to be scratchbuilt along the front wing. The kit has a split front wing and the Army car has a solid one-piece wing. It will take a little time but all you will have to do is to add some styrene to the split wings to create a one-piece and then notch the front of the body for the wing to sit down into. Also, you could use Testors metalizer paints to enhance the details on the model.
"Those who try, get passed up by those who do" "Life comes at you a quarter mile at a time"
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Orange
Posted by Enzo_Man on Saturday, January 24, 2004 11:49 PM
Yep, I've built that model. And I have absolutly no clue why it's level 3, I didn't have any more difficulty than 2's. Anyway, it was fun. PLENTY of detail to add, ignition to the dual magnetos, bunches of fuel lines, several oil lines, throttle, clutch, fuel cut-off, and chute cables, brake lines, etc, etc, etc. If you need any help on detailing email me or ask here for all to see!
"Aerodynamics is for people who can't build engines"
  • Member since
    May 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, April 7, 2004 2:17 PM
I've built it also. Adding to 1320wayne's response - besides notching the front of the body work (this will make the front more of a 'shovel nose' configuration), you might need to also chop the front of the chassis to make the body fit. I squared off the front of the chassis right in front of the steering box. Also, instead of using the exsisting front wings, you might want to take some styrene sheet and scratch build the whole thing. It would probably help with the rigidity of the wing that way. My website is: if you want to see my version of it.
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Augusta, GA
Posted by miarob on Wednesday, April 7, 2004 6:45 PM
I'm in the process of building the Joe Amado Superman TF car. Like Wayne said, metalizers make a huge difference if you are building OOB as I am. These kits are quite simple, no idea on the level 3 deal.

Rob My Albums


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