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1967 Triumph TR4A 8/22/16 3D printed turn signal test fit

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  • Member since
    July, 2008
1967 Triumph TR4A 8/22/16 3D printed turn signal test fit
Posted by Foxer on Saturday, October 10, 2015 1:42 PM

This is a work in progress I thought would interest members here. It's work adapting a resin body to a donor kit and has many challenges along the way.

This is a build of the 1967 TR4A I had when I exited the Army in 1969. I have an Airfix TR4A kit which is pretty detailed for a 1/32 model including a full engine. But, I'm a scale tyrant and I like all the builds on my shelf to match, so 1/25 - 1/24 is my preference. Therefore I picked up the Air-Trax TR4 resin kit. A Gunze Sangyo Triumph TR3 is the recommended donor kit and the Minicraft 1958 Triumph TR3A kit is mentioned as another possible donor. I have both kits so will show a bit of both and how I decided which to use.

So here's a few shots of my 1:1 to start. I drove it all year as I was stationed about a hour and half away at Ft. Devens, MA waiting for my Medical Discharge. Just throw some chains on for those bad days. :lol:

TR4Ascan0029.jpg
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TR4aSnow2.jpg

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by Foxer on Saturday, October 10, 2015 1:44 PM

The Air-Trax body is pretty thick and needed some grinding to fit the "frame/wheel wells" from the donor kits. The Gunze kit has the floor pan molded separately needing the firewall and front wheel wells added. I glued them with superglue so I could test fit. Below is the body and a couple shots after grinding.

 

TR4bodyDSC_9234.jpg

TR4bodyDSC_9235.jpg

The Minicraft frame is all one piece and I like how it fits. I cut about an eight of an inch off the back and cut it flush to the wheel wells at the front. I think this one is gonna be the keeper for the build. The rear of the front wheel wells needs to be rebuilt to slope backwards to match the body openings.

TR4MinicraftframeDSC_9239.jpg

TR4MiniframeinbodyDSC_9241.jpg

 

A lot more grinding and fitting today, mostly on the interior panels as the frame is fitting well. I will need to make a floor, hopefully the Minicraft TR3 floor will work with some mods.

 

The need for reshaping of the rear of the wheel wells can be seen in this photo. This is due to the difference in shape for the TR4 and TR3 wheel openings. It should only need some trimming and added sheet plastic to get the slope.

wheelwellDSC_9310.jpg

 

The interior panels need considerable sanding to get a fit along the body edges. The photo gives an idea of the work required and much more needed. I will have to make a tonneau cover for the top so most of the edges won't be seen and I can ease up on this a bit. I wonder if some kit has something I could adopt for the tonneau cover?

 

interiorfotDSC_9307.jpg

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by Foxer on Saturday, October 10, 2015 1:47 PM

The bottom edge of the trunk was really a mess with holes spaced along the edge. I did some putty on it and scraped the line but most of the putty came out before the primer coat to check things. I may have to fill the whole thing and re-scribe a new line.

TR4AbackholesDSC_9508.jpg

 

I also did more grinding on the body edges and wheel wells thinning to less than half the original thickness. The front grill area needs shaping with putty on the driver's side to proper shape. I will have to create the rear wheel wells that intrude on the interior. The rear and side pieces that come with the kit are contoured to fit around them but neither TR3 donor kit has these sections of wheel well with them. The TR3's use separate interior pieces that are not correct for a TR4.

 

As a whole the body is good but it is very thick and the areas mentioned need bodywork to bring back the shape. I wouldn't recommend this one to a beginner. I believe the later body's by Air-Trax are much higher quality.

frontDSC_9509.jpg

 

This needed rear wheel wells as they show in the interior. The donor frame has only the rear portion of the rear wheels. I cut the rear wheel wells off the frame of a '51 Chevy convertible that was already being used as a parts car. I also took the convertible boot to cut down and possibly use if I cant find another. After they were fitted and glues to the body the donor frame wheel wells were cut down to match. Not a perfect match, but when painted black they will be hardly noticeable. It took more grinding to thin the body more where the wheel wells fit and I did the final thinning and smoothing and thinning of the edges around the wheel openings.

wheelwellDSC_9565.jpg

wheelwellDSC_9566.jpg

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framecutDSC_9568.jpg

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by Foxer on Saturday, October 10, 2015 1:51 PM

The back slope of the front wheel wells was sloped rearwards to get it behind the body. The donor TR3 has straight sides on the wheel openings. I just cut the corner out and added .06" sheet plastic epoxied in place. final finish sanding hasn't been done yet.

ftwellsDSC_9610.jpg

ftwellDSC_9612.jpg

 

The frame was fit better and the wheels now look better centered.

sideDSC_9613.jpg

 One thing that has stopped me is figuring how I can do the front fender light turn signal light shroud that is at the front of the side chrome. Here's some photos I've gathered .. nice ones of a piece on sale on ebay ...

turnsigscan0036_zps76717ca8.jpg

 

tr4aturnsignal-1_zps3677e975.jpg

 

re4aturnsignal-3_zpseb79c677.jpg

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by Foxer on Saturday, October 10, 2015 1:57 PM

Continuing to patch small areas on the body as they show up under primer. The bottom of the trunk lid is getting there .. I think it is very close now and will see with some more primer. There are some panel lines still needing the scribers to define better for applying BMF first.

I want to document well what it takes to get this very early Air-Trax TR4 resin kit up to snuff. So excuse all the photos with little change. Be assured their newer bodies are VERY good!

 

The TR3 chassis had some .06" widening pieces epoxied on with glass cloth reinforcement. It fits really well now. Next step is to get the stance right now that the chassis is a drop in fit.

 

I needed a transmission tunnel and found the one in the Gunze TR3 kit to be the perfect size but I didn't want to cut up that kit. After considering a few ways to make it I made a mold with silicone rubber and made a casting with Bondic. This material is a clear plastic that cures in 4 seconds under a blue light. It all worked out well and now the interior is coming together!

 

Trans%20Tunnel%20DSC_1738_zps8gucvwn9.jp

Trans%20Tunnel%20DSC_1742_zpssmiivuxx.jp

 

Trans%20Tunnel%20DSC_1741_zpsxzl9mouo.jp

 

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by Foxer on Saturday, October 10, 2015 2:00 PM

Got a mockup with primer .. bodywork  is done ... this was a long road to this point! Thinning the resin body and panel line repairs were the most time consuming but all the TR4 things are well done and it just needs the TR4A specific side chrome and side light assembly to be made. I popped the PE grill in that came with the kit. The wheels are in Metalizer Stainless Steel and maybe too shiny, the wires were only painted. The interior pieced are in black primer and the top boot is made but only taped in place and not laying flat. It will have the piece attached to the front edge that hangs down .. not sure of the purpose of this loose flap.

I've been working on the dash as this will be a focal point and need a lot of love! First is the resin dash that came with the lit. I was going to make a wood decal and drill out the instruments for more decals, but decided to print a photo of the dash wood and probably the instruments with it. There are trim rings on the PE fret to use around them. First is a scan of the resin dash and the PE fret from the kit:

This is the dash with a low resolution print of some dash wood .. needs sone more irregular grain I think.

The dash proper is set but the center console had to be done from scratch and is still being shaped .. at least the fit is correct now. Kit Basher has generously sent me some wood veneer for my dash and this is in the process. It is so thin I was considering using the veneer itself but have photographed it and will use a photographic print. Maybe in next update if that works. The veneer he sent has beautiful grain .. perfect for my dash.

In this photo is the rear resin bumper that broke in two places due to my clutzy hands while sanding the flash off. They are pinned and ready for glue, but this joint will be delicate no matter what. The rear bumper has the mounting pins in place and is ready for Alclad.

The center console has a piece added because I had to lower the center tunnel to correct the console height .. I hope I can get a radio in it after adding the shifter piece. The shift boot was made from progressively smaller rings and are on the shaft made from a headed pin. 

The dash wood has been chosen .. using the upper one in the Photo. This is a photo of some wood veneer that Hugh Grubb (Kit Basher) sent me and was photographed and a mask of the resin dash with gages and shape applied. I tried a print on photo paper and that will be cut out and glued to the dash. The glove box outline is in Photoshop in black and will be applied before making the final print.

dashes_zps00uwpcd6.jpg

 

The shift receiving piece on top of the tunnel was glued to the console face and now drying and I can finish shaping it tomorrow .. letting styrene glue dry a day and I'll add some surer glue to reinforce to the back. This is a drop in dash/console now!

shift%20boot%20in%20place%20DSC_1759_zps

  • Member since
    March, 2004
  • From: Lancashire, UK
Posted by marcusadam on Saturday, October 10, 2015 2:22 PM

I am loving your work, making a model of a car you've owned is a real labour of love. Inspired to get back to my 1/24 model of my 1/1 MGB GT I had before the banks ruined everything!

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by Foxer on Saturday, October 10, 2015 2:27 PM

Thanks ... I didn't know there was a kit of the MGB GT. Would love to see your work when you get back on it. :)

  • Member since
    March, 2004
  • From: Lancashire, UK
Posted by marcusadam on Saturday, October 10, 2015 3:08 PM

There isn't. There's a transkit for the Airfix/Aoshima/Revell MGB that was mastered by Bob Downie that is as rare as hens teeth, but I got lucky on ebay a few years ago

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by Foxer on Saturday, October 10, 2015 4:50 PM

ah ... nothing is made easy for sports car people ... except driving them

  • Member since
    May, 2008
  • From: Louisville, CO
Posted by maniacalmodeler on Monday, October 12, 2015 8:56 AM
Great job so far! This is definitely an interesting project! I'll be following along.
  • Member since
    January, 2005
  • From: Bombala, Australia
Posted by aussiemuscle308 on Tuesday, October 13, 2015 3:26 PM
some pretty amazing work on this project. i've built a few 'horrible' resin transkits like this and i sometimes wonder if it's worthwhile
  • Member since
    February, 2016
Posted by jbwelda on Monday, August 08, 2016 6:55 PM

This is a very interesting project, lots of work but its really getting there!

I have an AirTrax VW Karmann Ghia Type 3 (Euro Ghia) body that one of these days I have to buckle down and attempt to fit to the Tamiya Ghia kit. Its much newer and in better shape than yours, but its still going to present its challenges. The body, while much thinner than yours was, is very uneven to the point of resin being a mere skin in places (almost actual 1/24 scale sheet metal) and most edges are very rough. Still, your work is inspiring to me, maybe one of these days.

Are you still looking for a tonneau cover? if so what dimensions? Might have something around to donate, i have a number of old gunze kits that i have pirated stuff from.

Those wheels look great too, i was going to suggest looking into Southeast Finecast but the Gunze ones look excellent.

Great work, i encourage you to forge on!

jb

 

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by Foxer on Monday, August 08, 2016 8:41 PM

jbwelda

This is a very interesting project, lots of work but its really getting there!

I have an AirTrax VW Karmann Ghia Type 3 (Euro Ghia) body that one of these days I have to buckle down and attempt to fit to the Tamiya Ghia kit. Its much newer and in better shape than yours, but its still going to present its challenges. The body, while much thinner than yours was, is very uneven to the point of resin being a mere skin in places (almost actual 1/24 scale sheet metal) and most edges are very rough. Still, your work is inspiring to me, maybe one of these days.

Are you still looking for a tonneau cover? if so what dimensions? Might have something around to donate, i have a number of old gunze kits that i have pirated stuff from.

jb

Thanks for the encouragement, jb. I'm getting determined on this one and at
least the body's done. The 4A turn signals on front fenders is giving me
hiccups.

I've eyed that Ghia for the Tamiya gathering dust  ... Sounds like it just
needs some pools of epoxy to thicken it out. ;)

and, thanks for the tonneau cover offer but I got it all worked out .. made one with sheet.

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by Foxer on Tuesday, August 16, 2016 10:03 AM

This has leaped to the front as I have solved, presumptively, the creation of the front turn signals. I sent a 3D file to Shapeways for 3D Printing! It should arrive here tomorrow to see how it came out.

I knew 3D Printing would find a place in our hobby but never so quickly. I have a little advantage having started the creation 3D Meshes over 20 years ago, actually replacing plastic modeling for awhile. This is all things coming together as I found no way at this point to make these parts. 3D printing them is almost TOO easy!

This is a render of what I sent to be printed. I put the bar between them to make it one part (very important) and also gives a handle to paint and chrome them.

  • Member since
    May, 2011
  • From: Vacaville, CA
Posted by bowtiefan on Thursday, August 18, 2016 9:04 PM

I had a '66 TR4A.  Loved that car.  Sure wish I hadn't sold it.  Very seldom see them anymore.  I didn't know there was a 1/24th kit for it.  I just might have to try and find one.

Ken

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by Foxer on Friday, August 19, 2016 7:12 AM

bowtiefan

I had a '66 TR4A.  Loved that car.  Sure wish I hadn't sold it.  Very seldom see them anymore.  I didn't know there was a 1/24th kit for it.  I just might have to try and find one.

This is a resin kit by AirTrax that needs one of the TR3 kits as a donor. Sorry. I never took a photo of all the parts. There are some photos here fo some of their resin kits.

Ken

 

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by Foxer on Monday, August 22, 2016 11:41 AM

I received the turn signals and am very happy with them. There's just no way I could duplicate what I have now. They needed a little sanding but just some swipes with some 600 paper.

I found I have to sand the body where the seam on the resin body runs too far foward through the area the turn signal has to mount. It will look much better once this is done.

 

Also, I found a shot someone took of this Air-Trax kit with all parts

  • Member since
    August, 2016
Posted by mini man on Tuesday, August 23, 2016 12:54 PM

Very nice work,I have the Airfix boxing of the Gunze kit and iit is nice with a P.E. chassis!

th 2nd pic shows it alongside a Minicraft TR3A chassis - diff kettle of fish.Confused

Airfix boxing..


Chassis

Will build most anything,love American cars muscle etc.Britishvehicles are a buzz too,trucks are great - want to do a jet truck,building parts up...

Nigel.

 

U.K.

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by Foxer on Wednesday, August 24, 2016 8:19 AM

Those Hi-Tech kits are pretty cool .. I'd love to see how that PE chassis builds up.

The wire wheels I have came from a Hi-Tech Gunze TR2 ... they are spectacular wires!

  • Member since
    August, 2016
Posted by mini man on Wednesday, August 24, 2016 1:31 PM

Will let you know when I do it - no imediate plans though,the Airfix boxing has white metal spokes which are frankly poop!Laugh

Will build most anything,love American cars muscle etc.Britishvehicles are a buzz too,trucks are great - want to do a jet truck,building parts up...

Nigel.

 

U.K.

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by Foxer on Saturday, November 11, 2017 12:32 PM

A PE frame is very interesting, think you'llever build it?

I just started trying to locate the wheels from this kit, also in the low tech kit. I've been looking for rins with circular holes around the rim for a build of my '69 VW with custom rims I bought. These are the closest I've seen.

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by Foxer on Saturday, November 11, 2017 12:34 PM

mini man

Very nice work,I have the Airfix boxing of the Gunze kit and iit is nice with a P.E. chassis!

th 2nd pic shows it alongside a Minicraft TR3A chassis - diff kettle of fish.Confused

Airfix boxing..


Chassis

 

 

A PE frame is very interesting, think you'llever build it?

I just started trying to locate the wheels from this kit, also in the low tech kit. I've been looking for rins with circular holes around the rim for a build of my '69 VW with custom rims I bought. These are the closest I've seen.

  • Member since
    August, 2016
Posted by mini man on Saturday, November 11, 2017 1:51 PM

Foxer

A PE frame is very interesting, think you'llever build it?

I just started trying to locate the wheels from this kit, also in the low tech kit. I've been looking for rins with circular holes around the rim for a build of my '69 VW with custom rims I bought. These are the closest I've seen.

 

One of these days.

Will build most anything,love American cars muscle etc.Britishvehicles are a buzz too,trucks are great - want to do a jet truck,building parts up...

Nigel.

 

U.K.

  • Member since
    September, 2015
  • From: Martinsville Ind
Posted by RL FROST III on Tuesday, November 14, 2017 12:29 PM

WOW that is a great build that you have going on. My first car was a 68' TR250 could not even drive a stick. Great car and fast as anything on the road. Last yr I found a Airfix Triunph TR4A model in 1/32 scale close to the 68 but, where did you get the  pe for that car your building, I saw it had a TR250 badge on it, and what scale was it, if you know about a 1/24 or 25 scale TR250 I sure would be interested

  • Member since
    July, 2008
Posted by Foxer on Tuesday, November 14, 2017 5:20 PM

RL FROST III

WOW that is a great build that you have going on. My first car was a 68' TR250 could not even drive a stick. Great car and fast as anything on the road. Last yr I found a Airfix Triunph TR4A model in 1/32 scale close to the 68 but, where did you get the  pe for that car your building, I saw it had a TR250 badge on it, and what scale was it, if you know about a 1/24 or 25 scale TR250 I sure would be interested

 

 
That's a nice first car! I have that Airfix 4A and it would make a pretty nice model, even has an engine, though only 4 cylinders. The PE set came with the Air-Trax TR4 resin kit and is 1/24 scale, but you would be welcome to it. I looked pretty long and hard for a 1/24 TR4 and this was the only option. It does take a lot of work, though I tend to get too detailed. As far as I know there are no diecasts either.
 
The one thing I hated avout the car was having to tune and syncronize everything too much. Was the 250 the same?
  • Member since
    September, 2015
  • From: Martinsville Ind
Posted by RL FROST III on Wednesday, November 15, 2017 9:22 AM

you got that right, the carbs were a real mess, but I loved that car as I assume you understand. I also was in the Army got out in 75 and bought a candy apple red TR250, should have kept that one, thanks for the information and looking foward to your build

  • Member since
    May, 2017
Posted by Tom Louis on Wednesday, November 15, 2017 2:01 PM

Cool build and an intersting WIP post. I have an interest in old sport cars and sport car racing. I have aquires several kits and plan on building them in the near futue. Thanks for sharing.

Thunderbass Shufflemaster

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