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Tutorial #2: 10 point roll cage for member 1965 chevelle...complete!

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  • Member since
    October, 2006
Tutorial #2: 10 point roll cage for member 1965 chevelle...complete!
Posted by freakintiger on Friday, June 29, 2007 3:27 PM
Hey all! I was contracted to build a 10 point cage for "1965 chevelle". So I thought I would go ahead and make a tutorial out of it as a lead in to a full chassis tutorial.
Here we go!



Here is the subject car a '71 Chevelle from "1965 chevelle". First move is to tape it together to get some crucial measurements. I wanted to measure from the top of the inner door panel to the headliner. I got a measurement of 5/8". From the top of the inner door panel to the floor was 1", so my total depth was 1 5/8". That establishes the top of the cage. To get the width of the cage I measured from inner door panel to inner door panel right in front of the rear seat. It was 2 1/8".



Here is the principal tool of the styrene chassis builder: fire! You need it to make your bends permanent. Remember plastic is "thermo-formable". This means it's shaped can be changed with heat.

WARNING: Whenever working with fire/open flame you are creating a fire hazard. MAKE SURE ALL FLAMMABLES ARE CLOSED AND AWAY FROM THE OPEN FLAME! EXERCISE CAUTION!

WARNING: FUMES CREATED FROM BURNING PLASTIC ARE TOXIC. DO NOT ALLOW PLASTIC TO CATCH FIRE!

To make your bends in plastic rod permanent, you will very quickly "dip" your bend into the flame. The plastic will soften a little under the heat then cool and retain the new bent shape. It is a quick action and may take a few practice attempts to get the hang of it.

The plastic being used is Evergreen 1/16" rod, part no. 222.



This is how a completed bend should look, slightly sooty, but not sagging. The rod should not be thin in the heated spot. If you are fast enough it will maintain it's diameter throughout.


  • Member since
    May, 2006
Posted by modeltech on Friday, June 29, 2007 3:31 PM
SWEET!! Thanks a million and i will be watching this thread!!!
http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d144/MODELTECH/? http://s97.photobucket.com/albums/l228/modellingman/?sc=1&addtype=local
  • Member since
    October, 2006
Posted by freakintiger on Friday, June 29, 2007 3:36 PM
The completed top and side bends for the "roll bar" portion:



Pinning everything down to locate the horizontal connecting bar. Use of a triangle is critical, and measuring twice, cutting once is key here! Measure, mearure, measure!





Measuring the connecting bar is simply marking a piece of rod with pencil then cutting it. File it down until it drops into place with a minimum of contact on either side. It should not push the "roll bar" open. If it does file a little bit off and try it again. Only sand a tiny bit at a time or you will wind up too short and have to cut another piece of rod...


  • Member since
    October, 2006
Posted by freakintiger on Friday, June 29, 2007 3:46 PM


After you have successfully "dry-fit" your horizontal piece, now is the time to glue it in. You will need a very aggressive adhesive "weld". I use Plastruct Bondene. I understand Ambroid Pro-Weld and Tenax 7-R are also good, but have not used either.
I use a cheap detail brush to deliver the cement. This is so I can accurately measure the amount of cement. A little goes a long way.



Here I am measuring to cut the excess rod away. It must be right the first time! Otherwise the entire assembly must be repeated!



After I make the first pencil mark to cut by, I make what I call a "Poor man's calipers". It is simply a piece of paper with two pencil marks denoting the measurement. This is so you can ensure the other side is EXACTLY the same. Check and double check! Measure twice, cut once.


  • Member since
    October, 2006
Posted by freakintiger on Friday, June 29, 2007 4:02 PM
I intentionally added 1/16" to the measured 1 5/8" length. This so I would have excess material to serve as locating pegs for the holes I would later drill in the floor pan...



Good fit...



Drilling starts with a pin-vise drill and 1/16" bit.



Here I am drilling what will become the mounting plates...


  • Member since
    October, 2006
Posted by freakintiger on Friday, June 29, 2007 4:19 PM


I cut each plate 1/2" long to allow for my braces to sit at the proper angle. I used a minimum of cement to "tack" on the plates. I made sure each plate sat just above my marks for 1 5/8", so my height would be even and correct. Next I dry fit the assembly to make sure everything fit.



A good fit, with the top of the bar just below the headliner...



Next I glued each plate on for true with a little more cement. Then I set about making my angle braces. I cut them to fit with excess so I could sand the angle cut into the top, then created the bottom angle cut with the knife. Before I glued them in, I compared them side by side to make sure they were exactly the same...


  • Member since
    May, 2007
  • From: Beyond the sun.............
Posted by Mr. Min T. Fresh on Friday, June 29, 2007 4:27 PM
What a great thread my man...........
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, June 29, 2007 4:37 PM
dude it looks sweet cant wait to see more i apreciate u doin this for me Big Smile
  • Member since
    May, 2007
  • From: NE of Indiana
Posted by Mike72 on Friday, June 29, 2007 6:06 PM
Great tutorial! Mike72Approve
Mike72
  • Member since
    November, 2006
  • From: Quebec, Canada
Posted by skumole on Friday, June 29, 2007 7:16 PM
Very useful! Thanks freakintiger Thumbs Up
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  • Member since
    September, 2006
Posted by Fade39 on Friday, June 29, 2007 7:28 PM
Nice tutorial! These are the type of things we need more ofSmile
  • Member since
    October, 2006
Posted by freakintiger on Friday, June 29, 2007 7:29 PM
Thanks all for the compliments and support!



This is the completed "roll bar". If you just wanted a roll bar, stop here. If you want a 10 point, continue...



Here is the top section, and an illustration of why you need a good welding cement. Bondene will defy gravity in under 5 minutes...



Here I am checking the clearance, I had to remove and cut back the top section twice to ensure a proper fit...

Bends for the top section are accomplished the same as for the roll bar section. Measure and be prepared to tweak and even re-do!


  • Member since
    October, 2006
Posted by freakintiger on Friday, June 29, 2007 7:43 PM


To begin the front braces you'll need to sand an angle into the rod. This will be the surface that connects to the top section.



This part is tricky and takes a lot of tweaking. First you must put in that angle bend you see. Then before you place the plastic into the mounting hole slide the mounting plate over it. Then tweak the rod into place, eye-balling it to make sure it looks right.
Next glue it to the top section. You may have to sand more of an angle into the top of the rod where it will meet the top section to ensure a good fit. This is where you need to let your eyes guide you.
After that push the mounting plate down to the floor pan, carefully so that you do not push up the whole assembly on one side. Once it is resting on the pan and parallel to the door panel, carefully glue it. You must be careful not to let the glue roll over the edge of the plate onto the pan or you will not be able to remove the cage for painting.
Then clip off the excess rod on the bottom side of the pan and sand flush.


  • Member since
    October, 2006
Posted by freakintiger on Friday, June 29, 2007 7:56 PM
Okay now for the side braces:



On these first I sanded the angle that will meet the mounting plate. I then cut the pieces to length to meet the back of the frame where they will attach. I made both side braces identical and made both of them before attaching them.



I first glued the side braces in from the back of the cage then mounted the cage back in the cockpit before I glued the front down. I did them one at a time, removing the cage to attach the second side brace, then putting it back in the cockpit to secure the front. This way there would be no distortion.



Next I measured off, cut and installed the front piece. Remember it is better to cut it a little longer than you think it should be, then slowly file it down until it fits.


  • Member since
    October, 2006
Posted by freakintiger on Friday, June 29, 2007 8:03 PM
Lastly are the two rear braces. Just file them at a steep angle where they will meet the package tray(I wasn't going to drill the tray just provide the illusion they are going through). Then measure them to be the right length, cut and glue them into place, making sure they are straight.





There you have it, one 10 point cage!


  • Member since
    March, 2014
Posted by fireguy14 on Friday, June 29, 2007 9:08 PM
Very nice! Thank you for taking the time to post all that. Very useful info. Sully
  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, June 29, 2007 9:26 PM
VERY NICE JOB FREAKINTIGER I COULDNT OF DONE THAT GOOD MYSELF WOULD U MIND TOUCHING UP MY SEATS AND INTERIOR LOL J/K UNLESS U CAN Big Smile
  • Member since
    March, 2007
  • From: SOUTH FLORIDUH
Posted by MikeMc on Friday, June 29, 2007 9:47 PM
I had the right idea , but now I know what I need to do !!!!Thumbs UpThumbs UpThumbs Up
THANXX

HANG UP AND DRIVE........ Mike

  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, June 29, 2007 10:38 PM
wow!!!!!!!
thanks for the tutorial!.....im going to need it very soon!
  • Member since
    May, 2007
  • From: NE of Indiana
Posted by Mike72 on Friday, June 29, 2007 10:43 PM
Again great tutorial!! 10 pts cage. ,Mike72
Mike72
  • Member since
    November, 2006
  • From: Quebec, Canada
Posted by skumole on Saturday, June 30, 2007 11:32 AM
Big thanks freakintiger Thumbs Up Now i'll have to buy some styrene and have a try!
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  • Member since
    October, 2006
Posted by freakintiger on Saturday, June 30, 2007 5:58 PM
Cool! Glad you all have enjoyed it and found it useful!


  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, July 02, 2007 1:00 AM
Another BIG THANKS Freakintiger. This will come in handy for some later projects. Charles
  • Member since
    July, 2004
Posted by pharr7226 on Monday, July 02, 2007 3:59 PM
Thanks to you for doing this tutorial and to Thumper for encouraging you to do it.

http://s187.beta.photobucket.com/user/pharr7226/library/

  • Member since
    November, 2003
  • From: Calgary, AB
Posted by Canada Jeff on Monday, July 02, 2007 5:45 PM
This is awesome. Thanks, man.

  • Member since
    October, 2006
Posted by freakintiger on Monday, July 02, 2007 8:48 PM
You're very welcome all, thanks for the support and encouragement!


  • Member since
    March, 2007
  • From: SOUTH FLORIDUH
Posted by MikeMc on Wednesday, July 04, 2007 12:48 PM
Great job Freakintiger !! I did one ..doesn't look bad at all. What is your trick to get exact spacing between the up bars? I can't get two the same width for the life of me !!! and until I learn I can only have a roll bar not a cage!!

HANG UP AND DRIVE........ Mike

  • Member since
    October, 2006
Posted by freakintiger on Wednesday, July 04, 2007 11:28 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by MikeMc

Great job Freakintiger !! I did one ..doesn't look bad at all. What is your trick to get exact spacing between the up bars? I can't get two the same width for the life of me !!! and until I learn I can only have a roll bar not a cage!!


Please elaborate on "up bars". I'm not positive on which you mean...use the "QUOTE" feature to show me the pic that features them and I'll be glad to help!


  • Member since
    March, 2004
  • From: Bath, Somerset, United Kingdom
Posted by Cycolac Fan on Thursday, July 05, 2007 7:10 AM
Thanks for taking the time to do this tutorial, much appreciated.

Anyone a little shy of trying to bend plastic using a candle (I always keep a glass of water handy just in case) might be able to find the main bends they need in the parts tree of model kits.
Best of all they're free.
Mike "Good hands, bad taste in cars." Yes I'm a grown up 'playing' with toys but a lot of adults my age drink beer or play computer games - and I've got something to show for the time and money I've spent...
  • Member since
    March, 2007
  • From: SOUTH FLORIDUH
Posted by MikeMc on Thursday, July 05, 2007 8:49 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by freakintiger

QUOTE: Originally posted by MikeMc

Great job Freakintiger !! I did one ..doesn't look bad at all. What is your trick to get exact spacing between the up bars? I can't get two the same width for the life of me !!! and until I learn I can only have a roll bar not a cage!!


Please elaborate on "up bars". I'm not positive on which you mean...use the "QUOTE" feature to show me the pic that features them and I'll be glad to help!
your first two bends to form the main hoop on the cage.The two vertical "up Bars" Thanx Mike

HANG UP AND DRIVE........ Mike

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