SEARCH SCALEAUTOMAG.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

37 Ford Pickup

2350 views
55 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    November, 2017
37 Ford Pickup
Posted by Gluecipher on Wednesday, January 10, 2018 12:01 PM

 

 

 

 

Man i hope this picture adding works ?

Here is my take on 1937 Ford pickup that ive been making when i have time  and money. I had it for a while in shelf, afther buying it mostly for its grille and engine, but after i stumbled upon the model built by Mrchevyblack who posted pics of it here, i was so inspired to do a car in bit similar vein. I dont see my car being built as rat rod. Instead ,to me it is more like a shop truck ,slash, weekend warrior. Its built of  Revell's 2in1 special edition that has few speed parts and lowered suspension , which are like gold to me as i am limited pretty much on the parts contained in model kits, instead of aftermarket stuff...its insanely expensive to order from overseas. Im sucker for old flathead Fords, especially pickups and this kit has all i need to start from without breaking the bank.

I saw someones unfinished project pics showing same cab getting chopped in a way i could propably do it too. I copied the chop the best i could, removing first the rear window ,to keep it original size after the chop. Then i cut off the rear pillar/wall, removing approximately 4.5" scale inch slice from between. I spent good while reading about how much real counterpart could be chopped when the body wont be channeled at all or just slightly. Then i bent the a-pillars and cut off what needed to fit em back on the roof. Glued back the rear window part, and tried to sand it the best i could, though i like bit rough hot rods in real world....not so much intentional rat rods but i love old gas welded seams all visible, maybe more than beautifully hidden scars. 

After all, my head writes a story for the vehicle, before and during the build and this car keeps telling me that it is/was something like pit car / hauler / engine jack for some guys who have some more serious racer, that this tired old truck drags in the trailer but occasionally when racer is on hold, they use this beater just for the fun of it, to see will it beat any real hot rods. 

I dont have working compressor to do any nicer paint jobs, but i really dont mind using rattle cans nor brushes either. This has some rustoleum-style brick red/brown flat base paint with flat clearcoat on top of it, followed by layer of table salt and hairspray, followed by cheapest green spray local hardware store had. I sanded, rubbed and scraped the green paint to get it distressed ,wrinkled and chipped. Then brushed ,wiped and smeared the body with mixes of few flat browns ,blacks and tans, diluted with paint thinner. 

 

Added two torn stickers, Isky ( if i only knew what era it represents?) and Bonneville to back up the story of the body.

 

37PU

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Wednesday, January 10, 2018 12:42 PM

 Rear tires come from my Revell '29 Ford Roadster,  that i bought like 2 yrs ago and opened it the first time few days ago, as i really love these tires, and to me they are maybe the best parts of the kit... ( i want it to have buggy spring or similar old world rear suspension and flathead with some never seen "new" speed parts ).

 

Sanded the tires a bit and gave them steel wool rub all over, before washing em with some flat thin tan paint.

 

Wheels and hubcaps are kits own stock stuff and i like them quite a lot. Nothing special in them, just green paint that i tried to get more rusty and dirty.

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Wednesday, January 10, 2018 1:51 PM

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Wednesday, January 10, 2018 2:04 PM

I measured that theres some space to move the engine bit towards back, though not much. 2.4" scale inches before engine should touch firewall. In real life...well, i dont know if its worth the effort but in scale model ? Why not. 

So i removed the front crossmember, cut off the engine mounts off it, and made new ones that moved engine like 2.5-3 millimeters back. 

Then i moved the crossmember same amount forward, and trimmed off the area where you glue the radiator on. I moved the part that supports the wishbone and tranny also accordingly, as well as shortened the torque tube a bit to mate it with trannys new location.

What else...no other mods in frames front parts yet atleast, except gentle shortening of the tips that had like tilted ends, that are now more like squared. 

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Wednesday, January 10, 2018 2:18 PM

Just like the project pics i saw posted by someone very skilled person, i made the shell for grille, using parts from hood and one separate lower piece. I just glued the parts somewhat tight against the shape of grill,and then cut the excess part of. Filed and sanded the embossed Ford logos, smeared some putty etc...

  • Member since
    February, 2008
  • From: Seattle, WA
Posted by gbk1 on Wednesday, January 10, 2018 2:26 PM

Very nice work so far. I especially like how the chop rewarded you careful work. It's lowered in height, but still well proportioned and because it's cleanly done it doesn't necessarily call attention to itself. The grill shell is very well done, too. Are you doing the truck with fenders? If so the chop will do it's business once you get to the point of checking out the overall body and stance relationships.

The patina on the wheels is gorgeous and totally believable. It looks like you applied some patina to the frame and suspension bits as well, and the effect looks much the same.

When time and budget permit, I suggest some good weathering powders to add even more control and realism to your weathering efforts. You clearly have a knack for it and you'll find them a delightful, and effective, addition to your palate. They are commonly used by railroad and military modelers so reasonably priced versions should be available to most modelers on our planet.

These Revellogram '37 Ford kits, which go back to earlier versions by Monogram, are wonderfully detailed and engineered kits, great candidates when you parts stash is limited.

Build on!

Bernard Kron Keep On Buildin'

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Wednesday, January 10, 2018 2:27 PM

 

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Wednesday, January 10, 2018 2:59 PM

Thank you !

Yes, there are weathering powders and washes sold here and im curious to hear what excact washes to buy first,lets say from Vallejo, if i desire sand dust, engine oil leak ? And few powders for rust textures would be nice. In past i used all sortsa baking powders dyed with paint...old school. Maybe too old school.

Yes theres some diluted Humbrols rust wash already on the frame. Its my only "real" wash now, after few years of not doing models at all.

With postages the model kit cost me 53 Euros, which is quite much if you ask me, and i was going to Not chop this, as i was worried i might ruin it and theres no more of these kits available...but after a while i ended up founding the project pics by...was it "Deucepu" ? . I measured and traced the cabin on paper, and drew the chop in to it, to see how much the front pillar can be tilted before it looks stupid, and compared it to discussions on forums where guys build these from real steel. I know its not complicated chop at all but i dont want to loose my money and be forced to do some weird roofless hackjob...atleast from this pricey kit. Measure twice,cut once.

Fenders you ask. Im not going to use those, atleast not the models own big ones with stepping boards and such. I have been playing with this stupid idea of adding just some thin,light fender...struts(?) but no fenders attached. This would fit the story of the car i think, as the owner would use em only when local police forces him to bolt em on...in other times he would drive it fenderless, in its racer setup, which includes exhaust details too. We'll see about that i guess.

Im glad you approve this build.

 

  • Member since
    February, 2008
  • From: Seattle, WA
Posted by gbk1 on Wednesday, January 10, 2018 5:20 PM

Gluecipher

Thank you !

Yes, there are weathering powders and washes sold here and im curious to hear what excact washes to buy first,lets say from Vallejo, if i desire sand dust, engine oil leak ? And few powders for rust textures would be nice. In past i used all sortsa baking powders dyed with paint...old school. Maybe too old school.

Yes theres some diluted Humbrols rust wash already on the frame. Its my only "real" wash now, after few years of not doing models at all.

It sounds like you have some experience with washes and weathering already so a nice set of powders will be a powerful tool for you. As you probably already know, the best way to learn to use them is to exeriment! I don't know exactly where you are in Europe so I went to eBay.fr to get an idea of representative Euro-zone prices for weathering powders. The standard Vallejo weathering powders in the small jars which are the same as are sold here in the USA, cost about 4-5 Euro each, similar to what they cost here.

I use Bragdon Enterprises weathering powders. They are popular with railroad modelers. I was given a selection by a friend many years ago. It takes so little to get a powerful effect that I doubt I will ever need to buy more! I have found that the best approach as far as colors is to use a powder that resembles the color of the effect you are going after. For example, for fresh extreme rust, which is bright orange-brown in color, I use a bright orange-red powder. For a concentrated area I apply it over a light drop of alcohol and let it dry. If I want a light surface rust effectI simply dust it on. Sometimes, I will dust the powder on over a light application of alcohol, then very lightly and gently wipe with a tissue to absorb some of the moisture. The effect resembles ground-in or residual surface dirt or rust. For oil stains I would rorbably use a dark coal or soot black powder and apply it over some alcohol to resemble a stain.

I looked at the Bragdon Enterpises' website and the colors I that was given appear to be FF-61 Light Rust, FF-62 Medium Rust, FF-63 Dark Rust, FF-64 Soot Black, FF-66 Dust Bowl Brown and FF-67 Grimy Gray. There is a USA vendor on eBay.fr who sells the Bragdon systems and the prices are about the same as in the USA, 5.83 Euro for individual colors, and small bags of sets of 4 colors (which is what I appear to have been given) for 10 Euro. Shipping is less than 4 Euro.

 

Bernard Kron Keep On Buildin'

  • Member since
    December, 2003
  • From: Nova Scotia
Posted by Bainford on Thursday, January 11, 2018 8:21 AM

Very nice work, mr Gluecipher. Well thought out mods and well executed. I really like the work around the grill, and the weather looks very effective. Looking forward to seeing more.

Que the Vikings: "Spam Spam Spam Spam Spam Spam Spam Spam ..."

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Thursday, January 11, 2018 12:35 PM

Thank you very much.

I have tendency to think my work is very clumsy and i hesitated to post it here at all but after all, when i learned how to add pics here, and reading how people here are quite cool,commenting each other, i wanted to show what im up to. I have already 29+34+50+31 Fords under works but i think i will continue with this '37 untill its ready, before posting about other projects.

The way i did the grille shell is merely a copy of some other guy did, mine is just bit longer and different shape. Im trying to cut it a bit more, making few notches to make it fit between frame rails, and take it as near the radiator as i can, to make the front of the body appear shorter, and have the wheels appear to be reaching further from grille, as i did not -though i thought about it- use other front axle with better detailing and build it "suicide" style. It would have make the truck go out from its concept somehow.

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Sunday, January 14, 2018 7:00 AM

 

Heres a quick mocking pic for those who might be interested to tell how it looks so far. All comments are appreciated.

 

 

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Sunday, January 14, 2018 7:58 AM

 

I had these...you call em dumps? Or baffles ? from Amt's '32 Vickys race headers, that i had to use when i started to think my pickup needs a bigger tank than the tiny Moon(?) tank. Original tank wont fot anymore under the bed as the frame of car is inch shorter than originally and i did not want to just slab the original tank on the cars bed. 

 I dismantled the once glued small tank and sanded rhe header dump ends smooth,then glued em between the tiny tanks two halves. In picture the paints are still wet and not ready but i hope you see my idea. Maybe it is used by others too,i dont know but i had no other plastic to extend the tank.

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Sunday, January 14, 2018 8:07 AM

 I sanded and filed few dings and such on the tank as in its life it sure gets occasional hit from wrench or engine parts...

 

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Wednesday, January 17, 2018 11:17 AM

Little update.

As i've noved the engine back just a little bit, the bellhousing now prevents the firewall and cabin to drop in their place with the body, and i took the quickest route to pass this issue.

I sawed of part of original floor and glued a shortened stub of this padded floor console, which i think is from ertl's old '49 Mercurys leftover parts. I will not do any fine interior as you cant see much in the cabin anyways due to chopped top and since this is merely a shop truck / beater by its story.

 

  • Member since
    March, 2017
  • From: Brighton England
Posted by Spencer Mopar Fan on Wednesday, January 17, 2018 11:36 AM
Looking great so far Glu. Superb work on the fuel tank too !
  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Wednesday, January 17, 2018 11:44 AM

Spencer Mopar Fan
Looking great so far Glu. Superb work on the fuel tank too !
 

 

Hey, Thanks a Lot.

Its very hard to add pics here,as im not good with smartphones and i dont have computer to do it, so i am bit worried, does anyone except me even see the pics but seems like you do .

The tank looks bit better now, when its dry but i liked my little idea of how to make more volume to it.

Ive got the engine mostly done ( i'll add wires to it afterwards when i find some...) And when i get the dash attached, and something like licence plate,windows,driving/rear lights in the car, i think its ready to be posted. Hope i can do it in next 4 days.

 

Thanks again

  • Member since
    February, 2008
  • From: Seattle, WA
Posted by gbk1 on Wednesday, January 17, 2018 12:47 PM

The pictures are excellent and come across just fine! The tank looks great. It looks like you're moving through this with assurance and skill. It looks like you'll be done soon and everything points to a great looking model! Build on!

Bernard Kron Keep On Buildin'

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Wednesday, January 17, 2018 12:56 PM

Well im so excited to get this done already, to hear what people here think of it

Originally, to be honest i was not goin to chop this, and i planned it to have all its fenders, and paint it dark matte brown, with some towing accessories but i just had to admit myself i would -in real life- choose fenderless more mean looking one any day, and decided to build this more in that vein. And the one beaten blue i saw here did not turn my urge any lesser...more like the opposite.

Its very nice to hear your judgements

 

As i get this ready, its time to put effort on my interpretation of t.r.o.g-ish '29 i think.

  • Member since
    December, 2003
  • From: Nova Scotia
Posted by Bainford on Thursday, January 18, 2018 7:30 AM

Looking good. Nice work on the tank.

Que the Vikings: "Spam Spam Spam Spam Spam Spam Spam Spam ..."

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Thursday, January 18, 2018 8:12 AM

Thanks, Bainford Beer

  • Member since
    November, 2007
  • From: Denver, Colorado
Posted by Classic Plastic on Friday, January 19, 2018 7:45 PM

I'm all in on your build project. I must also agree with the great photos and thought that when into your display of steps in the project. Nice overall work!

Kevin
  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Saturday, January 20, 2018 3:45 AM

Classic Plastic

I'm all in on your build project.

That means a lot, so thank you. Its very nice to hear any comments,be them pro ,against, critics or helpfull tips.

My house is quite cold now so the parts ive painted havent dried so i cant but wait for day or two, i think, before i can build this more. But theres not much to do anymore....its just that even though i havw and had quite clear image in my mind of how i will build this, the ideas tend to grow and grow, and i wont add 'em to this, but instead keep em stored for next pickup build.

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Saturday, January 20, 2018 2:58 PM

 

Except for tailgate, which i am receiving ( had to buy one Revell 29 pickup anyways), and future plug / oil filter wiring, i think i'll call it done. 

What do you think ?

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Saturday, January 20, 2018 3:12 PM

Nutjob...thats how the neighbours call the guy, as it seems he builds his car all around the clock, hoarding every nut and bolt he can get. 

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Saturday, January 20, 2018 3:17 PM

That boom is not for towing, i gotta say before you doBig Smile. Guy who drives this as his only, daily runner, uses the boom to lift engines, axles, etc at the junkyard where he works for parts and gas money to have some fun when he is not in the ever so boring high school where his parents forced him to go instead of car mech school. Hitch is there waiting for the day when he gets the trailer, or atleast towing boom done so he can drag his full time racer around the county, from race to another...or to tow some new project home, to make his dad go even more mad about havin more "junk" in the backyard sheds surroundings. Looks like the rusty wires holding licence plate have once again failed.

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Saturday, January 20, 2018 3:17 PM

 

Had to make bit beaten front bumper-ish thingy, and add some lights to keep this tied in its story of road legal shop truck / wrecking yard part getter /weekend racer. Just enough to keep some time off from the local law & order harassing all the time.

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Saturday, January 20, 2018 3:19 PM

Engine is pretty much straight from the box, except for the intake manifold that i saved from one gluebomb i bought from flea market yrs ago...my best find ever i think. Carburetors are from Revells '29 Ford, you know, the quite new one with Nailhead. Velocity stacks are from AMT Vickys 427 engine option. I used some girlfriends jewelry pouch mesh for the screens on em to have atleast some air filtration. 

Once i get my Dremels new chuck set home, i'll drill hole for engine oil adding pipe, there in front of intake manifold.

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Saturday, January 20, 2018 3:21 PM

Used 2mm solder for exhaust . Drilled the end a bit hollow to make it look like pipe. It has no mufflers, and it just comes from headers with few curves to make it exit under the frame like that. 

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by Gluecipher on Saturday, January 20, 2018 3:54 PM

Not much room in the tiny bed, but sure, if you lift the boom bit up, you  can fit a new flathead block on the bed from the junkyard or machine shop to replace the  previous blown up engine.

 

Floor is not the finest around, i know, but hey, atleast they are genuine wood. Bed is all stock from Revell '29 rat rod pickup,that had mysteriously lost its tailgate,but im adding one to this once i get one. Winch spool rotates, i made it from styrene bits. Its supposedly just your average, manually cranked type with two directions, forth and back. Tank is in the bed as the original wont fit in its place as i shortened the frame about 1". Boom has scratch built support "welded" in the frame and thats why theres holes in the beds corner for the boom tubing goes through it.

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS

FREE MONTHLY NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our privacy policy