'27 T Lo-Boy - Completed with final photos.

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'27 T Lo-Boy - Completed with final photos.

  • I'm building this for a hot rod build-off on another board.  They do a lot of show rods so a Flintstone 27 T body with Revell Parts Pack Caddy mill and mostly Revell 29 RPU suspension, a Lo-boy stance, Testors Inca Gold paint, pearl white frame and interior, and lotsa chrome seemed appropriate given my building style.

    The key influences for the image in my head are the Gary Heliker 26 T (which gained infamy in the movie Hot Rods To Hell), and the Ray Anderegg 25 T in the later “Golden Chariot” version recently cloned by Von Franco and featured as a TRJ cover car.

    The Gary Heliker T:

    The later Hot Rods To Hell Version:

    The Von Franco Golden Chariot clone as featured in The Rodder’s Journal:

    I've been wanting to do this project for a long time but have continually put it off because of the large amount of scratch building involved. But I think I may be up to it, now.

    I scratched together the chassis after having built the mill to get the dimensions I needed. The air cleaner is from Modelhaus.



    And here's a mockup for stance check, held together by rubber cement... The rear wheels are the ones I'll be using (from Modelhaus). The fronts will be chrome ones like the ones you see. The tires will be either these or slightly wider ones. Alternate tires and the chrome front wheels are on order from Modelhaus so that will probably be the long pole in the tent... Chopped Revell Deuce grill shell. I'm pretty sure I'll be running lakes pipes under the body to add some interest to the lower edge of the car. I'll probably have to make them.




    The really big challenge is now, and has always been, scratching together an interior. Probably no way to avoid it any longer...

    Thanx for lookin',
    B.

    Bernard Kron Keep On Buildin'

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  • Looking good!!  I really like this one.  :)  So is the whole car going to be the gold of the air cleaner?

  • Nice work, especially that frame.

    Plan your work, work your plan.

    Measure twice, post once.

  • That frame looks sweet, excellent progress so far...

    Currently working on: DUEL Plymouth valiant, 1958 Biscayne 4 door RHD.

  • Thanx guys. I do these mockups and stance checks at the beginning to make sure things look right and will go together properly. Looking at the car in photos and also "in the plastic", there was something that bothered me. It looked a little stretched out. I decided it was because the rear wheels were a little too far out at the corners, so I moved the rear axle in about 1/8 inch or roughly 3 1/8 scale inches. This tucks the top of the rear tire below the trunk line creating a symmetry between them, and makes the car slightly more close coupled without spoiling the Lo-Boy effect. Belows is a comparison between the two with new stance at the bottom. The camera angle isn't a perfect match but I think it shows the difference.

    The air cleaner is Testors Inca Gold, the color I'll paint the body. The frame rails and the interior upholstery will be pearl white.

    Bernard Kron Keep On Buildin'

  • Definitely an improvement. Since you brought it up, personally, I would prefer to see the front axle moved back a tad as well, maybe to where the tire tread just lined up with the rear face of the grille shell. It's very hard to tell exactly in your reference photos, but my eye seems to be telling me the front could come back......maybe not as much as I've suggested....and the balance might be a little more pleasing.

    What is the scale wheelbase as she sits now?

    For a '32 with the rear axle in the original location relative to the body, I've found 114" is about as long as you can go without looking like a Dachshund.

    Plan your work, work your plan.

    Measure twice, post once.

  • The wheelbase is 4.5" = 112.5 scale inches, so under your Deuce rule of thumb. Regarding the front end, the front axle just clears the front crossmember right now so there is little room to take the front axle back without cutting up the frame. Also, I'm planning to run a fan on the motor (chromed, of course) so I have to allow for some space there. Once the motor placement is fully nailed down, including the fan and firewall clearances, that will determine the final placement of the grill shell. It most likely will move forward a bit which will change the look of the front end somewhat. And finally, I think that adding color, headlights, shocks, etc, will help fill the expanse at the nose.

    Bernard Kron Keep On Buildin'

  • This is rad. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the build!

  • what kit is the caddy air cleaner from?

     

  • The air cleaner is the 1953 Cadillac air cleaner from The Modelhaus. ( http://www.modelhaus.com/index.php?y=&c=&pt=18&part=1&Submit=Search ) It can be found under Parts - Customizing Parts on Page 1. It's also available in a chromed version. 

    Bernard Kron Keep On Buildin'

  •      Just a suggestion,,,I'd drop the mill down low between the frame rails,looks a bit high.

    Lazyman, AKA Thread Killer

  • Thanx again guys!

    I’ve received several comments regarding the stance of this car and decided to revisit it one more time to dial things in to address what I thought were some perceptive and constructive observations. The result was that I did an extensive re-do of several areas.

    To begin with, I noticed that the  rear axle interfered with the lower edge of the body, causing the body shell to be jacked up and spoiling the original channel I had done. Removing some additional bodywork to clear the rear axle corrected this problem.

    Next up was that I noticed that the front end was extremely low, creating a more extreme rake than I wanted and causing the front end to look more stretched out than was desirable. By lowering the suicide perch I raised the front end about 1/16” or about 1.5 scale inches.

    Lastly, the motor sat too high relative to the bodywork, a problem made even worse once I corrected the rear axle interference. I made several changes to address this, the goal being to place the upper edge of the oil pan at the same level as the tops of the frame rails.. First of all I changed the transmission from the very large automatic transmission that comes with the Parts Pack Cadillac to a compact little La Salle box which lowered the back end of the motor without having to rebuild the center crossmember. Next I fabricated new  engine mounts that were slightly narrower and extended horizontally from the frame rails to support the engine at the center of the block casting rather than at the lower edge of the crankcase. With the engine lowered relative to the cowl top I found it necessary to raise the air cleaner slightly so I fabricated a small spacer placed between the air cleaner and the carburetor.

    With all these changes it was necessary to finalize the motor location in order to dial in the grill shell placement, a design element which is critical to determining if the front end would appear too stretched out. This required fabricating the firewall, which I made from an AMT ’29 Ford roadster unit. In addition I installed the motor’s chromed fan. And finally, because it effects where the eye is drawn in evaluating the overall stance, I mocked up a windshield frame resembling the unit on the Anderegg car.

    One more change still needs to be made. With the body properly located now, the grill shell will need to be cut down some more to align properly with the cowl.

    All this work really has made a big difference. The car sits more solidly on its wheels and looks more put together than it did. So , thanks to those who were interested enough to comment.

    Thanx for lookin’
    B.




    Bernard Kron Keep On Buildin'

  • YES, YES, YES !! Now that is one mean looking little T.  Exceptionally nice rework.

    Plan your work, work your plan.

    Measure twice, post once.

  • You're going to hate me, but I'm really trying to be helpful....this looks SO good now, there's one tiny little thing you might consider adjusting, and that would be a very slight rework of your engine mounts to get the valve cover parallel to the frame rail. It's a small thing, but the rest of your proportions are so nice, I think that little adjustment would make it 100% perfection.

    If this were a 1:1 build, the adjustment would also help to lower the tunnel a bit, and improve the angles on the driveshaft universal joints.

    Plan your work, work your plan.

    Measure twice, post once.

  • ace-garageguy

    You're going to hate me, but I'm really trying to be helpful....this looks SO good now, there's one tiny little thing you might consider adjusting, and that would be a very slight rework of your engine mounts to get the valve cover parallel to the frame rail. It's a small thing, but the rest of your proportions are so nice, I think that little adjustment would make it 100% perfection.

    If this were a 1:1 build, the adjustment would also help to lower the tunnel a bit, and improve the angles on the driveshaft universal joints.

    I agree with the Ace...It will make it a lot easier for the headers...Looking like another HOME RUN  Bernard!!!

    HANG UP AND DRIVE........ Mike