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Building The 1/25 Turd...a 72 Nova street car...

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  • Member since
    April, 2019
  • From: Trenton, NJ
Building The 1/25 Turd...a 72 Nova street car...
Posted by QuikTimz on Wednesday, May 08, 2019 10:09 PM

As some of you may have seen in my introductory post, my planned project involves recreating the 1:1 car that I "crew chief" on...it is a 72 Nova, that, (up until the end of last season), was a naturally-aspirated 421 SBC/TH350 powered car running 9.60s in the 1/4 mile on a 275 tire...

When she returns from the fab shop, (with mini tubs & rear firewall, a rear wing, 'chute & mount, and SFI Spec 25.5C updates to the rollcage among other things), we'll put the 565 BBC/"Glide in, finish this season's upgrades, and see if she'll go 8.50s on a 10.5" tire (with license plates) Devil...

I'll post my build updates here in this thread...

  • Member since
    April, 2019
  • From: Trenton, NJ
Posted by QuikTimz on Wednesday, May 08, 2019 10:46 PM

After initially purchasing the AMT #1142M/12 "Old Pro" 72 Nova kit at a not so local LHS, I was disappointed in it's quality...the first issue I had with it, is that there is no "not-SS" option in the kit (the Turd is a plain Jane)...even worse, (since I will be doing a highly detailed build, and opening the doors and trunk lid), I noticed the the Old Pro's molds are apparently so worn that there are no longer any upper door frames at all...so, back to the search for a victim...

Alittle research turned up Revell's #85-4274 '69 Chevy Nova COPO, which has "not-SS" components...actually locating one turned into a weeks long search...once I got it, I was pleased to see my project's basic needs met, and will simply convert it to a 72 with the trim & lamp changes needed...

  • Member since
    April, 2019
  • From: Trenton, NJ
Posted by QuikTimz on Wednesday, May 08, 2019 11:35 PM

I've started collecting the materials needed for the project...lots of brass tubing in various sizes: I'll be fabbing subframe connectors, a front clip, tubular radiator support, upper and lower control arms, and a roll cage with it...I found extra floor pans and frames on Ebay to facilitate making the mini tubs and trunk area with...they'll also let me cut a front subframe section out, so I can make a jig of sorts to fab the front clip with...

  • Member since
    August, 2015
  • From: Hamptonville, NC
Posted by TarheelRick on Thursday, May 09, 2019 3:36 AM

Looking forward to updates.  Wondering why you are using brass tubing rather than styrene rod?

I build models because I can't afford the real thing!

  • Member since
    April, 2019
  • From: Trenton, NJ
Posted by QuikTimz on Thursday, May 09, 2019 9:27 PM

TarheelRick

Looking forward to updates.  Wondering why you are using brass tubing rather than styrene rod?

 

 

Many things contributed to choosing brass as my medium of choice for much of the fab work on this model TarheelRick...when planning this project, I initially considered styrene as the primary fabrication medium...while I'm familiar with the material, and how to work with it, brass was always on the back of my mind...I stalked this forum and several others, checking out techniques and builds...none of them really nudged me away from styrene until I came across Tim Hoagland's ("Codi") Bantam Fuel altered thread here...what an EPIC build: I can only HOPE to achieve that level of proficiency (with simple hand tools, lol)...and then I stumbled across a set of these...yes, that is a functional ball joint in 1/25!!!...the Indian Head penny gives you a sense of it's size...how could I put this tiny work of art into styrene tubular A-arms?!?...so, brass became the primary material, instead of a "back-burner" consideration...lol, I wonder how insane I'll drive myself

Now, if I can figure out how to make a functioning Pinto-style rack and pinion (vs. the static Mustang II style presently available), I'll be on to something :-)

 EDIT: My apologies for those who attempted to find that Bantam build I referenced as being here...it is, of course, posted in another forum...old age is catching me quickly, lol...

 

  • Member since
    December, 2003
  • From: Nova Scotia
Posted by Bainford on Friday, May 10, 2019 10:45 AM

Cool project, I'll be watching.

I use a multitude of materials for scratchbuilding, but for tube work my personal preferences are brass and aluminum, and also hypodermic tubing when the need arises. Plastic is great but I tend to get better results when using metals. It's very much a personal thing. The results I see other people get from styrene is astounding.

I once made a nice, in scale working rack & pinnion steering gear. It started when I found a very tiny gear, about .080" - .100" in diameter. I found its teeth meshed perfectly with the threads on a 1/4" - 28 bolt. I ground away the brass bolt until I had a thin, narrow strip that included the threads on one side. This provided the rack & pinnion gears. The housing was easily made from K&S aluminum tubing, a longer section to house the rack and a short bit joined at 90 deg, the interface between the two was a fishmouth cut filed into each piece of tubing. That was as far as I went with the project and didn't make housing boots or tie rods, but they should be easily fabricated.

Perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.
       - Antoine de Saint-Exepury

Trevor

  • Member since
    April, 2019
  • From: Trenton, NJ
Posted by QuikTimz on Friday, May 10, 2019 11:16 PM

Bainford- I'm along the same lines for the R&P I have in mind...it would be a breeze to buy a 3d printed, or resin R&P, but, 1) they don't move, and 2) they are typically of an inaccurate design similar to the Mustang II racks...the Turd utilizes a Pinto-style rack, which has a two-bolt mounting block on the left side, and a strap or block mount on the right side...the Mustang II racks use two perpendicular tubular mounts...but (in my eye), the most egregious "detail mistake" with every (non-functioning) rack I've found is that the pinion intersects the rack @ 90 degrees (even though the 1:1 rack they are modeled after have an approximately 70 degree intersecting juncture (providing additional engine clearance)...the Pinto style racks also share this "angled" intersection between the rack & pinion, and therein lies my problem: I cant seem to source an angle-cut pinion gear of tolerable scale size...

So far, I have scavenged 7 cd/dvd rom drives trying to find the "correct" gear that will allow me to assemble a reasonable facsimile that functions...I'm going to scavenge a few VCRs and perhaps a CD player/changer or two next in the search...I also have another design concept based on the design of a modern cable-driven power window regulator that may result in a more accurate visual while still functioning...SMH, brainstorms hurt, lol...tie rods are a breeze, and I think rack boots could be easily fabbed from several stacked miniature O-rings...

In another related vein of inquiry, what is your preferred solder for fabbing with brass? I am thinking that the Solder-It silver solder paste with a butane torch may yield the best results...I'm also thinking of trying the "Easy-Melt aluminum welding rods", as their process is closer to soldering than welding...

  • Member since
    April, 2019
  • From: Trenton, NJ
Posted by QuikTimz on Friday, May 17, 2019 12:32 AM

Ugh....it's been a long, busy week...not alot of bench time available...alittle progress has been made: one of the extra chassis pans I tracked down has been sacrificed to the "Gods of Modification"...using the same method used to open doors and trunk lids (repeatedly scribing the cut line with the back of a #11 blade), I removed the rear wheel wells and the front subframe along with the trans crossmember...

The rear wheel wells will be used to mini-tub the chassis pan I'll be using in the final build, and the front subframe will be used to determine the dimensions of the tubular front clip and trans crossmember that I'm going to fab (once I make a jig to build it on)...

I'm waiting for parts that are on order to proceed further with both of these portions of the build: I need the rear tires for the mini-tubbing, and the BBC/Glide package that will be used...below are shots of the carved up chassis pan & parts, The Turd's mini-tub in progress, and the Smith Racecraft tubular front clip...

 .

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