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’73 Camaro

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  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, August 30, 2018 7:08 PM
I'm not a fan of the door protector trim, but I hate door dings more.  And since they are on the real car I had to make them for the model from scratch… 
I also made reflective mirror faces for the rear side view mirrors from Mylar.

It might be done once it gets a final detail.  I think I just ran out of parts...

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, August 30, 2018 6:23 PM
I didn't have any aluminum tubing the right size to make the exhaust tips so I turned them out of 6061 stock.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, August 30, 2018 4:19 PM
I put a set of driving lights from my first car (the Vega Kammback) on the Camaro; they were OEM Mercedes Benz units for a 450 SL.  I sourced a pair from the Monogram MB 450 kit and cast copies.
Got the front wheels on it now too…
 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, August 30, 2018 3:26 PM
Sub frame connectors are installed as is the rear suspension.  I machined the nuts, bolts & washers for the traction bars this morning.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, August 29, 2018 7:54 PM
Making some serious progress on it today.  Interior /chassis installed.  Engine/trans/front sub frame installed…

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, August 29, 2018 6:41 PM
When I had the headliner reupholstered on the real car I didn't reinstall the driver's side shoulder harness/holder since it has a four point harness.  I also did not use the sun visors; instead I made adapter plates that mount where the visors would to accept the brackets for the Wink mirror.
Today I made the passenger side shoulder harness and holder then installed the scratch-built Wink mirror I made almost exactly two years ago to the day.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, August 29, 2018 5:06 PM
Custom drawn plate and frame and the rear bumper installed…

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, August 29, 2018 4:32 PM

The molded trim for the chrome on the taillights was pretty soft so I made a pair of brass compound punches and cut the chrome rings from the new Warbird Decals chrome stripe decals.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Saturday, August 25, 2018 4:09 PM
Machined the breathers and the five point air cleaner hold-down nut.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, August 1, 2018 12:02 PM

Thanks Chris!

 

The refinished glass has been installed.  Still one more decal to apply to the inside of the rear window.  I couldn't add it until the glass was installed and I could see how to line it up.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    April 2018
Posted by jchrisf on Sunday, July 29, 2018 7:15 AM

Looks so real Mark

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Saturday, July 28, 2018 6:30 PM
I got the core support installed along with the battery and scratch-built terminals and custom made decals.  (Ironically just put new battery in the real one too.)  I also detailed the radiator cap.  Machining the 5/16 terminal screws was fun, they came out smaller than the shavings around the mill.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    April 2018
Posted by jchrisf on Monday, July 16, 2018 3:52 PM

Thanks Mark

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Monday, July 16, 2018 10:21 AM

Usually I hand paint the black trim.  But if there is a large pillar or it is something like a four door wagon with long sections I might mask and airbrush it.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    April 2018
Posted by jchrisf on Saturday, July 14, 2018 11:30 AM

Oh yeah.. I was actually just curious how you do the black rubber molding on a windshield that did need it for a different model.  Do you still hand paint it like you did the edges of the side windows on this one?

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, July 13, 2018 7:42 PM

My car doesn't have that.  The chrome trim covers the seals fully.  But for the side windows that do have rubber for the glass to seal against I just painted the edges flat black by brush.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    April 2018
Posted by jchrisf on Friday, July 13, 2018 3:10 PM

The clear part edges that mimicks the rubber around the window.

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, July 13, 2018 3:02 PM

I just sanded and polished it out like it was an imperfection in the paint, except in this case you don't have to worry about burning through any paint layers.

 

Regarding painting the edges black, do you mean the window frame that is chrome or the clear part edges?

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    April 2018
Posted by jchrisf on Friday, July 13, 2018 2:31 PM

Mark, I would have thought that windshield would have been ruined.  What was your process to correct it?  It looks better than new in the box.

Also, while on the subject, if you were to paint black around the edges how would you do it?

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, July 13, 2018 12:23 PM

Wow, interesting similarities between that silver Camaro, this one and my Vega I had before this car.  The Vega had the Western Superlites and I wanted Minilites for the Camaro, but the only ones I could find didn't fit well.  That's why I had to go to 16 inch rims.  And the driving lights from the Vega ended up on the Camaro; I working on them right now in fact.  And thank you!

 

 

The chrome on the bumpers wasn't the greatest and the rear was pretty bad on one side.  And that isn't even considering the inherent mold lines. 

 

 

Rather than strip the chrome I sanded them smooth down to the plastic and BMF'ed them.

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Melbourne, Fl.
Posted by rickr442 on Thursday, July 12, 2018 7:56 PM

Handsome Camaro! Reminds me of a car that I knew in Portland in '78/'79. Guy was a private investigator, had a '71 RS Camaro, silver, I sold him the Cibie' Super Oscar driving lights and the Recaros that I'd taken from my tricked out '74 Capri. His car had Western Minilite copies, Hella H4s, Pirelli CN36s, Bilstein shocks, just an epic car. Easily my favorite era Camaro.
Great job on the model, but that seems redundant...

www.fueledbythefallen.com

'Peggy, call the insurance agent... The cars got some bullet holes!'..... Joe Mannix

Yeah, but half an inch to the right, he woulda missed me altogether!'.....Jim Rockford

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, July 12, 2018 12:10 PM

Thanks Jon,  I just mixed the talc into the paint and airbrushed it.  The more talc the heavier the texture.  I think this was about 15%, I just eyeballed it.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Central Arkansas
Posted by Prostreeter69 on Thursday, July 12, 2018 11:56 AM

Scale-Master

 

Harness installed on the seat.  The fabric is velour and was replicated by adding talc to the paint.  I misplaced the head rest I already made so I made a new one thus guaranteeing the lost one will appear soon.  The headrest knob was machined from aluminum with the proper 9 notches in it.

 

 

 

Hey Mark 

Great job on the Camaro, your attention to detail is out of this world.  Can you elaborate on how you did the talc in the paint for this look?

Jon

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Charlotte
Posted by mikemodeler on Tuesday, July 10, 2018 9:46 PM

I have been following this and continue to be amazed at the work you are doing, speechless !

 

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Tuesday, July 10, 2018 8:49 PM

 

Fixed it…  But now I have to polish the rear window up to match.

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Tuesday, July 10, 2018 6:41 PM

 

Something solvent based apparently leaked (probably over two years ago) and the corner of the box soaked some of it up and the windshield just happened to be in that part of the box and was damaged.  It also has some scratches I knew I'd have to remove so it's just a little more work than planned now…

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Tuesday, July 10, 2018 5:11 PM

Thank you.  Just keep practicing and experimenting.

 

 

Dome light, machined from aluminum.

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    April 2018
Posted by jchrisf on Tuesday, July 10, 2018 4:30 PM

Looks perfect!  I wish I had your talent

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Tuesday, July 10, 2018 3:53 PM

 

Both door panels installed and the dash…

 

 

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    April 2018
Posted by jchrisf on Saturday, July 7, 2018 12:29 PM

Thanks Mark!

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Saturday, July 7, 2018 11:33 AM

I'm glad to help, it's part of how to keep the hobby alive. 

I use a few different primers depending on what I'm doing. 

The economical gray and white Krylon primers work well for checking body work (and prepping die-cast pieces). 

Tamiya Fine white and light gray primers are excellent, but a bit pricier and work very well just before putting and color down. 

I also used catalyzed two part automotive primers for some of the larger subjects.  PCL High Fill Poly-Primer is a good value.

I buy from my local paint supplier.  Since I worked in the auto painting industry I just keep going back to the same store.  I've found most shops are fine with "non-professionals" and hobbists buying direct. 

Last time I bought The Matrix I think it was around $50-$60 for a quart of clear and 8 oz of activator.  Stored properly it will last quite a while and you can paint a lot of bodies.  Valspar also makes a good clear as does PCL which is usually more economical.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    April 2018
Posted by jchrisf on Saturday, July 7, 2018 8:49 AM

I appreciate someone of your caliber taking the time to post here and show people like me how to do it.  Both my H and VL came with the #3 installed and I am going to change them both to the #5.  I started with the Neo for Iwata CN with the .35 needle and it is nice for detail work but doesn't flow well enough for anything else... plus the cup is too small.

Mark, what primer do you use?  And where do you get your Matix?  Every thing I googled was $250 but I am assuming these are in 1:1 quantities.

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, July 6, 2018 6:01 PM

Glad I was able to give you hopefully usable info.  I have never used the #3 cone or needle.  I found there is enough overlap between the #1 and the #5 that I just never needed it.  I have two or three #3 sets.  Also, I shoot a lot of 1:1 automotive paints, and they seem to flow better with the five.

Yes, that is who I am, just another model builder.  And I do appreciate the compliment.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    April 2018
Posted by jchrisf on Friday, July 6, 2018 5:20 PM

Thanks for the explanation Mark... I am new to all this and recently got the Paasche VL and H.  It seems everyone recommends the #3 noozle and needle so it is interesting to hear you are using the #5.

I think I just figured out you are Mark D Jones?  Then you really are the real deal... LOL... no wonder your work is so perfect.  Being very new to this hobby (within the past three or four months) I have still managed to read several of your articles.

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, July 6, 2018 4:29 PM

Thank you Spencer!

 

 

I forgot the fire extinguisher when I was finishing up the interior.  So I made one.  The bottle is aluminum turned on the lathe; the handle is carved from styrene with a stretched sprue nozzle and a piece of tubing for the gauge.  I used the art I already drew for a 1/12 scale extinguisher and reduced it and printed it.  The strap on the real car is Velcro; I used electrical tape on the model.

 

 

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    March 2017
  • From: Brighton England
Posted by Spencer Mopar Fan on Saturday, June 30, 2018 12:58 PM

Wow Mark , I've just gone through all four pages of this thread , as usual , your work is phenominal . Love the blue & white colour , and those "snowflake" wheels suit the Camaro  . Yes

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Saturday, June 30, 2018 11:58 AM

Thanks!  The body was painted by airbrush (Paasche VL with a #5 needle and cone) with the the Admiral/Cloisonné blue from the original touch up paint I had for the real car, with a coat of intra-clear to seal it.

After the decal stripes were applied it was cleared with The Matrix two-stage urethane using the same airbrush. After it cured it was cut and buffed then waxed.

The trim striping on the dash was done with a custom decal I drew and printed in metallic blue.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    April 2018
Posted by jchrisf on Friday, June 29, 2018 5:05 PM

Wow.. you are the real deal.  This is an incredible build.  I'd love to know how you painted that perfect paint job on the body and also how you painted the blue on the dash.

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, June 29, 2018 4:42 PM

 

And now installed in the interior. 

 

 

Also could now install the console with Hurst shifter and graphic equalizer…

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, June 29, 2018 3:46 PM

 

Harness installed on the seat.  The fabric is velour and was replicated by adding talc to the paint.  I misplaced the head rest I already made so I made a new one thus guaranteeing the lost one will appear soon.  The headrest knob was machined from aluminum with the proper 9 notches in it.

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, June 29, 2018 9:58 AM

 

I made the harness for the driver's seat.  A couple different kinds of tape, some hand cut Mylar and some custom made decals.

 

They are Schroth ASM (Anti-Submarining) so there is an electronic inertia reel that mounts into the back seat.  I just took off the Momo pads on the real car, but since they were on it for 20-some years I thought I'd put them on the model.

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Ste-Julie, Québec , Canada
Posted by mrchevyblack on Thursday, September 22, 2016 3:13 PM

Wow! Awesome Built! Great attention to all details from the smaller to bigger one! 

Bravo! 

Daniel "The french Connection" Modeling help to eliminate a STRESSS!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • Member since
    April 2005
Posted by scottw on Friday, September 16, 2016 7:55 AM

What a beautiful build. My first car was a 1973 LT, so I'm watching your build with great interest. Your attention to detail is amazing, and the finish on the car is spectacular.

  • Member since
    June 2015
Posted by topman on Monday, September 12, 2016 11:22 AM

Simply flawless, smooth as glass ;)

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Monday, September 12, 2016 10:06 AM

 

Finally got the chrome trim done and waxed the body.

 

 

 

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Saturday, September 3, 2016 3:25 PM

 

I finally got around to polishing some of the body parts.  First I sanded the hood stripes smooth then hit it with some Tamiya wax.

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, August 24, 2016 10:52 AM

Thanks guys!

 

As for the headers, they were a breeze to install on the real car (and I have had multiple sets over its lifetime), but there is just not enough space within the model to install, let alone fit them in between the frame rails.  So the best trick was to cheat a little and cut out material from both the frame and the headers knowing once it is all together it will be very tough to see.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    February 2008
Posted by gbeaird on Tuesday, August 23, 2016 1:22 PM

Really nice work. As a former-owner of 70's F-bodys, I appreciate your detailing 'the little things' that make all the difference.  It is interesting that this kit had the headliner texture molded in, most are just flat plastic and sink marks. 

I feel your pain with the headers.  I'm working on building a copy of my wife's 3rd Gen Camaro convertible, and while the headers I have fit okay, they're still a deal to fit.

Gene Beaird,
Pearland, Texas

  • Member since
    January 2011
  • From: long island, new york
Posted by chucky on Monday, August 22, 2016 8:38 PM

Man, I'm speechless. You could post just the mirror in "Other Models" all on its own. That is quite a piece of workmanship. 

chucky

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Monday, August 22, 2016 4:36 PM

 

I made the Wink mirror by milling some smoke colored plexiglass to make the base for the mirror panels.  Then boxed them with some 0.010 sheet styrene.

 

 

The mirror faces are made of Mylar.

 

 

And a custom decal to replicate the stickers on the front side…

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, August 18, 2016 5:41 PM

 

The water temp and oil pressure gauges I machined a couple weeks ago have been installed in their little under dash panel.  The switch for the driving lights has been added to where the cigarette lighter used to be.  A crush sleeve was machined from aluminum and added between the steering wheel and column.  I’m calling the dash done for now.

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, August 18, 2016 3:39 PM

 

Exhaust system has been colored and weathered and dry installed with the suspension sub-assemblies.

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, August 17, 2016 10:16 PM

 

Originally I planned to make the exhaust pipes out of solder, so I filled in the mounting holes in the chassis.  But after looking at the kit’s pipes, even though it is for the single crossover style muffler, I saw it would be much easier to modify those parts into what my car has.

 

I used the left over turbo mufflers from the AMT ’66 Nova (I used to build another one of my cars) and chopped and spliced the Camaro pipes to fit sans the single muffler. The cross-over pipe was made from a piece of one of the headers that didn’t work.  It is all pinned together with aluminum rod.

 

Base coat of silver ready for proper coloring…

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, August 5, 2016 6:59 PM

The engine is still at the same point as is the majority of the rest of the car.  Too many irons in too many fires, some if not most of it my own doing. 

 

This project requires more concentration than many others for me, so I often let it set until I have the time and energy to really focus on it. 

And constantly starting (and finishing) other projects is not speeding up the completion either.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    February 2007
Posted by shaun.s on Friday, August 5, 2016 6:43 PM

Mark, fantastic stuff, I think it was you who said" make each indvidual piech its own masterpiece ". exactly what u are doing here.

  • Member since
    June 2015
Posted by topman on Friday, August 5, 2016 8:13 AM

Simply outstanding. Any updates on the engine? No pulley assemblies, last we saw Huh?

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, August 4, 2016 3:38 PM

 

I machined a set of aftermarket Auto Meter gauges from aluminum.

 

A vacuum gauge, tach, and oil press & water temp.

 

 

I made decals for the faces and installed the tach and vacuum gauge.

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Samiches on Saturday, July 30, 2016 1:26 PM

Scale master is right, as mentioned above, your attention to detail is assidous!  You might not have to even polish out that clearcoat, it already looks great.

last build: 1972 Pontiac GTO with opening doors. http://cs.scaleautomag.com/sca/modeling_subjects/f/29/t/126630.aspx

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Quebec,Canada
Posted by mikemopar70 on Saturday, July 16, 2016 10:02 AM
Really nice, the paint is awesome!!

http://public.fotki.com/Mikemopar70/

 

Let's keep on building!!!

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Sunday, July 3, 2016 3:58 PM

 

All the decals were applied a week or two ago and since I was shooting my Corvette, I shot the clear on this too.

 

 

 

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Quebec,Canada
Posted by mikemopar70 on Thursday, June 16, 2016 6:31 AM
Awesome! Very clean work!

http://public.fotki.com/Mikemopar70/

 

Let's keep on building!!!

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by Retro Joe on Thursday, June 9, 2016 8:35 AM
I always thoroughly enjoy following your builds! I have a 70 1/2 to finish someday.
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Southeast Pennsylvania
Posted by peanutgallery on Wednesday, June 8, 2016 7:05 PM

Very informative WIP....Your attention to details is outstanding. I've always liked the early 70's Cameros.....They don't get the same respect as the 67-69 do......

Dennis

 

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Saturday, June 4, 2016 12:23 PM

 

The sealer-clear coat was sanded out but not polished or waxed.  Custom made stripe decals have been applied. 

 

On the real car I chose to paint the stripes with hard point corners on the inboard edges (like a Chevelle) instead of the factory stock round radiuses.  I think it accents the pointy nose better. 

 

Still a few more decals to add before clearing it…

 

 

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Tuesday, May 31, 2016 6:23 PM

Shot the base color (Admiral/Cloisonné) blue from the original touch up paint I had for the real car, with a coat of intra-clear to seal it.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Samiches on Sunday, April 3, 2016 10:14 PM

Very cool additions to the interior. Cool

last build: 1972 Pontiac GTO with opening doors. http://cs.scaleautomag.com/sca/modeling_subjects/f/29/t/126630.aspx

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by Builder2010 on Tuesday, March 8, 2016 6:11 PM

[quote user="Scale-Master"]

The knock offs have been added.  The tire sidewalls will be reworked, I just needed to test fit everything again before I decide if I’m ready to paint the body.  The little red bowties in the centers of the knock offs were fun to apply…

 

 

VVery nice build and nice prototype. Early 70s Camaros were my favorites.

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Monday, March 7, 2016 12:16 PM
The knock offs have been added.  The tire sidewalls will be reworked, I just needed to test fit everything again before I decide if I’m ready to paint the body.  The little red bowties in the centers of the knock offs were fun to apply…

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2015
Posted by Moparfan on Thursday, March 3, 2016 9:17 AM
Totally incredible build..Detail is amazing....The real deal,must be an exceptional Camaro...

Anthony DeMarco

  • Member since
    February 2016
Posted by smokewagon on Sunday, February 28, 2016 7:13 AM

Nice build. 

You have some crazy skills!

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, February 26, 2016 1:01 PM
The rims are almost done.  Two different offsets, but the same width.  I machined the valve stems/caps from aluminum.  Half surprised I didn’t lose any of them…  Still need to add the center caps/knock-offs.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Tuesday, February 23, 2016 2:26 PM

The valve covers are resin copies I cast from a Revell Super Truck.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    October 2008
Posted by oldcarguy on Monday, February 22, 2016 10:53 AM

Hmmm.

 Now , That's a real nice looking ride .Can I have it ? Huh ? Huh ? O.C.G.

gjgeracci
  • Member since
    December 2011
  • From: Central Pennsylvania
Posted by Dodge_Driver on Sunday, February 21, 2016 6:32 AM

May I ask where you sourced the slant-top valve covers on your engine? I have several SBCs (albeit center bolt covers), I'm wanting to use slant-top covers on.

More a model starter than a model builder!

Planned Builds: '78 Dodge Sweptline street machine; Revell '69 Charger-440/6spd/18" wheels; Monogram '32 Ford Highboy.

  • Member since
    January 2008
  • From: Plano (Dallas), Texas
Posted by mmthrax on Thursday, February 18, 2016 5:37 PM
Fantastic. Top drawer work. Glued to the screen

Just keep picking away at it...

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Saturday, February 13, 2016 1:40 PM

What's the rush?  I've had the real car for a third of a century.

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: East Bethel, Mn
Posted by midnightprowler on Saturday, February 13, 2016 6:31 AM

This is beautiful work. Will it be done any time soon?

1 Corinthians 15:51-54
1 Thessalonians 4:13-18

Ask me about Speedway Decals

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, February 11, 2016 5:56 PM
Samiches wrote the following post one month ago:

I really like the way you have the engine wired.  Are the wire holders photoetch, or did you make them?

Keep up the excellent work! 

 

 

 

I made the wire looms from scratch.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, February 11, 2016 5:51 PM
I turned the top of air cleaner from aluminum and milled the filter element from a chunk of raw resin I cast.  The pleats are a bit heavy looking, but once it is all painted I think it will be OK.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Samiches on Tuesday, December 29, 2015 3:14 PM

I really like the way you have the engine wired.  Are the wire holders photoetch, or did you make them?

Keep up the excellent work! Yes

last build: 1972 Pontiac GTO with opening doors. http://cs.scaleautomag.com/sca/modeling_subjects/f/29/t/126630.aspx

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Tuesday, December 29, 2015 12:48 PM

Thanks PT, I'm hoping...

 

I made wire looms like I have on the real car and wired the engine before permanently installing it into the sub-frame.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    November 2014
Posted by 07pt_cruiser on Thursday, December 24, 2015 6:20 PM

This is amazing I'm loving watching it. You're going to have an amazing finished product!

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, December 23, 2015 6:15 PM

Thanks guys.  Those headers died...

I tried TS-30 Silver Leaf instead of the Chrome Silver I used before thinking it would go on thinner and still be bright enough.  But decanting and airbrushing did not give the desired look.  Rather than build up more paint I opted to strip the headers as I had done in the past.  Unfortunately this time the plastic disintegrated, not just at the glue joints, they crumbled like rice.

Set number three came from a Revell ’69 Camaro and were also significantly modified to fit the engine/sub-frame. 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    May 2012
  • From: PORTER, TEXAS
Posted by TATTOOTONY on Wednesday, December 23, 2015 8:45 AM

Scale-master your eye for detail and execution on each part is phenomenal... The 70's split bumper has always been a personal favorite of mine! Can't wait to see what else you have in store... Thumbs Up

Look up my past builds: 49 MERCURY SLED BUILD & CADDY CTS NO LAMBO DOORS & Hills Hot Rods 78 Blazer Replica ( on hold ) 

Current builds: Ekstensive Metal Works 2004 Hummer H2 (Game Over) Replica WIP & Ekstensive Metal Works 1970 Ford F100 ( Coyote Ugly ) WIP

Instagram: @legendary_miniatures

my blog:https://tattootonyblog.wordpress.com/ 

  • Member since
    August 2015
  • From: Hamptonville, NC
Posted by TarheelRick on Monday, December 21, 2015 7:44 AM

You are doing some beautiful detail work on this one.  Really like the way you did those headers.  Keep those updates coming.

I build models because I can't afford the real thing!

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Sunday, December 20, 2015 10:49 PM
I didn’t like the way the headers fit under the car after mocking it up with the suspension and wheels.  So I stripped them and shortened them.
First I cut the three tubes that were closest together.  Then I snipped the single tube and re-bent it to fit after cementing the three back together.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, December 18, 2015 5:47 PM
The first set of headers I made proved to be too tight of a fit into the sub-frame, so I modified a pair from the AMT ’66 Nova.  I’ll finish the look of the ceramic coating after they are installed onto the engine.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, December 17, 2015 11:09 AM
I went back to working on the engine.  I textured and finished the valve covers…

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: West TN
Posted by v6mike on Tuesday, August 11, 2015 5:05 AM
That is some amazing detail,and the real thing looks great. This one will awesome when finished.
On the bench: Anything I haven't finished!
  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: arlington, tx.
Posted by rusty32rod on Thursday, August 6, 2015 8:43 AM

  Very nice work. coming along nicely.

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, August 5, 2015 6:22 PM
I made a brass and aluminum master for the knock-offs and cast rein copies.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, June 17, 2015 7:53 PM
I installed the fiberglass mono leaf front spring.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Caputh, Germany
Posted by modelmarc on Thursday, April 30, 2015 2:17 PM

Very very impressive build so far, love the attention to detail, and the 1:1 is very sweet!!!!

Marc

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Samiches on Wednesday, April 29, 2015 6:58 PM

Looking good! Yes

last build: 1972 Pontiac GTO with opening doors. http://cs.scaleautomag.com/sca/modeling_subjects/f/29/t/126630.aspx

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Tuesday, April 28, 2015 12:32 PM

I cleaned up the tie rod assembly that was cut off earlier and added it back to the front sub-frame and installed the steering box.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Saturday, April 25, 2015 7:29 PM

Thanks!  Sure is nice having the reference handy, and working on it upside down this time.

 

I cut the front sway bar off the lower control arm/tie rod/cross-member assembly and reshaped it to fit the new lower A-arms.  I started with brass rod for the stabilizer links and will flesh them out with hardware later.  I figure the yellow paint fattened up the thickness enough to approximate the 1-1/4 Suspension Techniques bar I put on the real car…

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: arlington, tx.
Posted by rusty32rod on Friday, April 24, 2015 2:33 PM

    That's going to look outstanding when it's done. nice chassis detail.

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, April 24, 2015 2:12 PM

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: arlington, tx.
Posted by rusty32rod on Thursday, April 23, 2015 4:22 PM

   looking very nice.

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, April 23, 2015 2:36 PM

Might as well make the traction bars while I’m in the area…   I milled the U channel stock from a stick of .125 X .25 inch styrene stock, the bars are sheet styrene.    I’ll make and add the hardware later.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, April 23, 2015 11:19 AM

I shot the console with satin black in a dry orange-peely coat, over an orange-peely primer base. Then I rubbed some oil from my face with my finger on it to knock down the texture high points and add some shine.

The door is cloth so it was shot with flat black (and made as a separate part).

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    February 2007
Posted by shaun.s on Thursday, April 23, 2015 12:49 AM
Hi Mark,I know it's a while back but maybe you can tell us how you textured the interior console? Thank you Shaun
  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Canberra, Australia
Posted by aussiemuscle308 on Wednesday, April 22, 2015 7:42 PM

amazing work here. those details should make it a brilliant car.

My Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/87459383@N07/albums

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, April 22, 2015 6:16 PM

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, April 22, 2015 11:04 AM

I decided to work on the front suspension since I was tinkering with the sub-frame.  I installed a C4 Corvette fiberglass monoleaf set up on the real car.  So to add it to the model I made a brass insert for the cross-member where the spring will be mounted.

The upper control arms and spindles are the factory GM units, but the lower control arms are special made items.  I made this pair from sheet styrene.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: arlington, tx.
Posted by rusty32rod on Friday, April 17, 2015 1:30 PM

    Looking good!

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: arlington, tx.
Posted by rusty32rod on Tuesday, March 24, 2015 9:12 AM

    Very impressive work. I like the detail added to the pan on the trans. gives it a nice, realistic look.

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Samiches on Monday, March 23, 2015 3:46 PM

Top notch work, Scale Master!  That console is very cool.  Impressive work so far.  Keep it coming!

last build: 1972 Pontiac GTO with opening doors. http://cs.scaleautomag.com/sca/modeling_subjects/f/29/t/126630.aspx

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Monday, March 23, 2015 12:55 PM

The trans has been painted…

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Sunday, March 22, 2015 12:38 PM

Despite warnings of fit issues especially since I attached the rear panel to the body, it seems to fit quite well with all the interior parts and glass temporarily installed.  The firewall is a little tight to install, but once I modify the kit part to match my car it should provide a bit more wiggle room.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Saturday, March 21, 2015 10:47 AM

I decided to use the kit provided engine with some modifications.  First I cut the 4 speed manual transmission off and cemented the engine halves together.

After painting it I made a decal for the Fram filter.

 

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, March 20, 2015 6:17 PM

Thanks Rusty.

 

I made a Hurst T-handle shifter to match the real one.  Yes, it is an automatic, but I custom made the shifter in the car to work with the 700R4.  This piece can be filed away until final assembly.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: arlington, tx.
Posted by rusty32rod on Thursday, March 19, 2015 10:54 AM

   Really nice detail on that console as well as the mods you made to it.

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, March 19, 2015 10:36 AM

I made a copy of the graphic equalizer.  To give some depth to the shifter plate area I put the gear selector lettering and the blue plastic dust cover in the recess of the console.  I made the shifter plate to sit flush above with some space between like the real car.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Tuesday, March 17, 2015 12:05 PM

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Monday, March 16, 2015 10:39 AM

Thanks guys!

 

I made the headers from a pair out of a Revell SuperTruck kit.  I cut some of the tubes apart and made the flanges from brass.   I cut off the long collectors and made new ones to match mine from brass and then added P.E. flanges.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    January 2011
  • From: Sioux Falls, SD
Posted by Slammed C10 on Friday, February 20, 2015 8:48 PM

Great build going on!! I also really like the real car :)

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Samiches on Friday, February 20, 2015 1:27 PM

Scale Master, these Camaro builds you are doing are top notch!

last build: 1972 Pontiac GTO with opening doors. http://cs.scaleautomag.com/sca/modeling_subjects/f/29/t/126630.aspx

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Quebec,Canada
Posted by mikemopar70 on Friday, February 20, 2015 11:28 AM

I love the way it's coming!!!

Very nice Camaro, keep it going!!

http://public.fotki.com/Mikemopar70/

 

Let's keep on building!!!

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, February 20, 2015 9:19 AM

After blowing up the car’s original 3 speed automatic back in the 80’s, I installed an (at the time) “exotic” 700R4.  For the model I sourced a 4L60E from the Monogram Impala SS.  I cut the transmission from the engine and the torque converter/inspection cover from the pan and assembled the trans and pan so I could fill the seam above the pan because of the way it was molded.  I cast that and the plastic cover as two pieces for easier painting.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: arlington, tx.
Posted by rusty32rod on Wednesday, February 18, 2015 10:02 AM

     Good looking car! I've got a feeling your build is going to look like the 1:1 shrunk down when you're done. great progress so far. thanks for sharing the pic & keep us posted.

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, February 18, 2015 9:53 AM

Thanks!  Not just skin deep either.  

1970 385 C.I. small block. .040 over 350 with a 400 crank. Just under 11:1 compression, port matched original LT1 intake on ported Edelbrock Performer heads. The cam is a hydraulic roller, 278 duration with .625 lift. The carb is a modified 750 Holley dual feed single pumper (that flows more like a 780 now).  700R4 trans with a 3600 stall lock-up converter.  The front suspension is a transverse monoleaf set up from a C4 Corvette, plus oversized sway bars front & rear.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Lancashire, UK
Posted by marcusadam on Wednesday, February 18, 2015 9:42 AM

wow, she's a real beauty!

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, February 18, 2015 9:27 AM

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: arlington, tx.
Posted by rusty32rod on Tuesday, February 17, 2015 11:26 AM

   That's coming along nicely. any pics of the 1:1?  

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Tuesday, February 17, 2015 10:51 AM

My car has ’92 Trans Am GTA wheels.  They are 16 x 8s.  The front wheels on the TA were offset by 16mm making them a little deeper dished.  On my car I put the “fronts” on the rear and vice versa to give it the appropriate look of a ‘70s car. 

I cast two sets copied from the Monogram ’89 Trans Am wheel.  They are close, but they do not have the proper offset, (or even different offsets), the offset appears to be an approximate average of the front and rears.

From one set I made the outer rims with the proper depths.  This is a front and a rear.

The other set also had the outer rims removed so I could use the centers.  I found a set of tires that look about right size wise; the rears are larger than the fronts.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Saturday, February 14, 2015 5:36 PM

The dash on the AMT kit is closer to being accurate than the one in the ’76 MPC kit, so I will use it.  The first step was to drill out the holes for the gauges and thin out the bezels around the gauges.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Friday, February 13, 2015 10:23 AM

Thanks!

 

For the driver’s seat I cast a copy of a somewhat similar style seat from a Tamiya kit (maybe from a Skyline?) to make into the Flo-Fit I have.

I reshaped the bolsters and made the center cushions out of sheet styrene.  I had to shave the cushion areas of the cast seat down before adding them.

The reshaped headrest was mounted on a couple steel pins.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: arlington, tx.
Posted by rusty32rod on Thursday, February 12, 2015 12:34 PM

   Looking good!

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Thursday, February 12, 2015 11:38 AM

Glad to share, but there a few areas I'll probably let slide. 

 

The front seats in the ’70 kit are not the same style as in a ‘73.   I used a seat from an old built up MPC ’76 Camaro in my collection as a base to convert into the passenger seat in my car. 

I will make resin copies so I can restore the interior of the donor car.  I’ll add the velour texture after casting.

The back seat is also different, but I used the ’70 piece and modified it into a ’73 pattern.

Ready for the velour, after I make the rear speakers for the package shelf…

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Upstate New York
Posted by spencer1984 on Thursday, February 12, 2015 6:34 AM

Nice work on this, thanks for posting the WIP photos. It's great to see someone who really knows the subject making corrections to a kit, as there's a lot of details the rest of us might not have noticed.

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Wednesday, February 11, 2015 10:57 AM

After I cemented the rear panel in I scribed the weld seams in.  I also scribed the rear edge of the trunk lid but did that section deeper as it appears on the real car.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Tuesday, February 10, 2015 10:20 AM

Thanks Len.  I can't believe how long I've been meaning to build this, (and one other I'm just getting into).

 

The front valance in the kit is shaped like one from a standard nose Camaro on the outer corners.   (For those that are not aware, the front fenders and the valence are a bit different between RS and non RS Camaro’s.)   To make it look more like an RS unit I sanded and reshaped those areas; I also filled in the detent for the front license plate since my car doesn’t have one, and the mounting notches for the front spoiler (my car sits too low to run the spoiler and actually leave my driveway with it). 

Note the gray slag imbedded in the plastic...

The front valence fit too far forward and the rear edges did not line up with the wheel wells on the body.  I cut the mounting tabs on the body and made it fit better.  Then I added some sheet styrene to the front where it meets the Endura nose to make up the difference.  The Endura nose is a little lower on the bottom than the valence where the two meet, just like on the real one.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    May 2008
Posted by Len Woodruff on Tuesday, February 10, 2015 6:55 AM

Very nice Mark.

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Monday, February 9, 2015 5:05 PM

The hood had a very noticeable sink mark running half the width of the hood in the center in front of the louvers (from the molded in under hood blanket).  That and a couple other small ones were filled and the chrome trim at the rear was added with sheet styrene.  It was also warped so I massaged it to fit the body better.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

  • Member since
    July 2005
  • From: Surf City, So Cal
Posted by Scale-Master on Monday, February 9, 2015 12:45 PM

I sanded out the molded in headliner detail since my car has the one piece style.  I’ll replace the dome light and shoulder harness (on the passenger side only) later.

Build what you want and build it for yourself, the rest will follow... Mark D. Jones

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