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1970 Plymouth Roadrunner

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  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Central/Eastern Europe
Posted by felhasznaaloo on Monday, February 4, 2013 5:54 AM

Hey, nice color on that exhaust manifold :-D !  Nice wheels, too.

About wiring boots: I just dipped my wires into paint a few times then trimmed the ends. This way the thickness was just fair enough to create boots but they still fit on the distributor better than boots made of my next-size-at-hand wire would. True it was my first (and still is my first) wiring I've ever done.

I also have a feeling that wires sold as 'plug wires' are a little too thick or just not factory stock size. Those heater hoses look thin to me too. I check the sizes of questionable parts on 1:1 reference pictures against the sizes of other parts of the 1:1 car.

(Another thing - I would have cut the door handles off my Super Bee before painting the body, and carve them correct, but the idea came too late. Or maybe I saved myself big trouble.)

Regards, Csaba

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Central/Eastern Europe
Posted by felhasznaaloo on Tuesday, January 29, 2013 1:06 PM

Just a guess - to straighten out the chassis I would insert a piece of strong / stiff sheet metal like canned soup tin into the passenger side floor pan indent, about 1 millimetre too long, and superglue it there. It should still clear the inner tub and push downward the passenger side front enough to have all four wheels level. But then again, you need to test fit the interior and body with the chassis to determine where exactly it is warped. Rgds, Csaba

  • Member since
    March 2009
  • From: western WI
Posted by bogger44 on Monday, January 28, 2013 12:41 PM

For your first time wiring a motor, it looks pretty good.  You even wired the right rear plug correctly.  I'm not sure what advise to give you about trying to straighten out the chassis.  A hair dryer might work, but just be really careful not to let plastic get too hot.  Some guys run hot water (not boiling) over the part and attempt to lightly twist it back into place.  On another note, about those kit supplied steel rims, they are incorrect for a factory Road Runner.  They were available only on heavy duty vehicles (police, fire, etc.)  I just wanted to give you a heads-up on them.  Nothing wrong in using them, though, as it's only a model.  Keep those pics coming!

  • Member since
    October 2012
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Sunday, January 27, 2013 7:03 PM

Thanks for that JR.  I’ve just wired my first motor!  The good news is that it can only get better.  I’ll have to look into Morgan Automotive & Preston Car Parts distributors.  The Parts by Parks looks like it should go into a race car.

 

Those black lines are supposed to be 3/4" coolant hoses that go to the heater box, but they're looking a little narrow. 

I also did the magnetized assembly board trick for the wheels:

 

But I still ended up with some wheel hop:

 

I was going to heat up the chassis with a hairdryer and try to torque it back into place.  Anyone have any better ideas?

Thanks.

  • Member since
    May 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 27, 2013 12:37 AM

The wheels look extra good for some reason..  I feel this post is worth paying attention to!!  Something big is coming!!  --S56>

  • Member since
    December 2005
  • From: Tennessee
Posted by SLUSHER on Saturday, January 26, 2013 10:20 PM

Really nice start.....Slusher

IT TAKES A LIVING SAVIOR TO SAVE A DYING WORLD....

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: The Great Northwest (SPOKANE)
Posted by Space Cowboy on Saturday, January 26, 2013 8:39 PM

Looking great so far..Keep it coming...............

(I Love It When A Plan Comes Together) Hannibal Smith.

http://s116.photobucket.com/albums/o33/moose5147/

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Spring, Tx
Posted by modelcarjr on Saturday, January 26, 2013 7:37 PM

I am no expert on engine wiring but I try. On the 440, I put the exhaust manifolds on the engine and then just driiled two holes between the first exhaust port and the center exhaust port and then two more aft of the center. I didn't bother with boots as you won't see them anyway.  I normally use pre-wired distributors. Morgan Automotive has a nicely detailed distributor but I can never get the wire through a wire loom. Preston Car Parts also has pre-wired distributors but the distributor is basically nine wires stuffed in a hole but probably the wire will fit through a wire loom.

The one 440 that I wired myself I added boots on the distributor by cutting brake line wire into small pieces, gluing them to the tits on the distributor and then gluing the spark plug wire into the top of the brake line. After all was said and done I don't know that it was worth it but it kept me from drilling 9 tiny holes and braking the tits off the distributor. Here's a pic. The boot on the coil is the easiest to see.

If you cannot have a good time, what kinda time can you have? JR

Next on the bench:  Another 1970 Hemi 'Cuda, 1958 Chevy Impala, 1987 Buick GNX, 1950 Chevy Pick-up, Indy Reynard, 1965 Corvette, probably not in this order.

  • Member since
    October 2012
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Saturday, January 26, 2013 6:14 PM

Thanks all for checking in – even CG63 (my poor Patriots!). And thanks bogger44 – it’d be great to have you along on this build.

I am intimidated by Fury3’s encyclopedic knowledge, but more often than once I’ve thought of throwing out a line on a random question. Problem is, “paralysis by analysis” is very real with me (one question I had involved the gas tank straps – you can see where I might go with this). I have limited bench time as it is. While I’d like to make this super-accurate, I’ve also go to start (and finish) somewhere.

Removal of the rear fin in the engine compartment wasn’t guts – it was ignorance! What I’m left with is a difficult area to make presentable, and some gnarly patch panels in the wheel well. However, I think with some coolant lines in the engine compartment and the wheels and tires blocking the view, I should come up with a decent 20-footer. And if I didn’t separate the exhaust from the real axle it would have bugged me. I did manage to snap at least one exhaust pipe and one axle in the process (used a #11 fine-tooth saw blade), but remedied the situation with putty & patience.

The color is Scalefinishes Dodge B5 Bright Blue. I dropped some Scalefinishes White Sealer under two coats of the blue on the wheels:

There was a line inside the wheel that acted as a spacer between the inner & outer rims. I thought it made the wheels stand too proud of the tire, so I shaved it.

I just got a Parts by Parks distributor for the kit engine and wiring will be a first for me. Any good references on installing the wires & boots around the exhaust headers on a 440? It also doesn’t look like I have enough room to put the boots on the wires at the distributor. Am I right or am I lame?

Thanks again.

  • Member since
    March 2009
  • From: western WI
Posted by bogger44 on Thursday, January 24, 2013 8:53 PM

Looking good!  I'm humbled that you've used mine as a guide/inspiration, thanks!  I couldn't have done it without the help of Fury3 though.  If you have any questions, feel free to ask.  Nice work on removing that fin behind the bottle on the inner fender, you're gutsier than I am. LOL!  I see you also removed the exhaust from the rear axle, nice.  It sure makes for a better look doesn't it?  What color is that you're going with?

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: South Central Pa.
Posted by CarGuy1963 on Thursday, January 24, 2013 5:39 AM

Great start idhtft. Keep up the good work. And keep those pics coming. CG63.

Its only plastic until you add imagination! CG63.

  • Member since
    November 2012
Posted by Daytonablue03z on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 9:59 AM

The engine bay looks great nice to see someone get back into modeling cars

"i live my life a quarter mile at a time, nothing else matters. For those 10 seconds or less I'm free" Vin Diesel from the fast and the furious

on the block 1985 Camaro z28 1966 altered wheelbase mustang fastback 1971 hemi duster 1970 1/2 Camaro z28

  • Member since
    October 2012
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 9:41 AM

I believe I have it.  Please feel free to offer constructive criticism as I’m looking to improve my modeling and how I present them.

First one in at least 30 years, although I have a couple of tanks under my belt from the past couple of years.

Bogger44 did not want to cut down the molded-in knob aft of the water bottle because he did not want to create a headache on a quick build. I had no such compunction, but I did succeed in making an unholy mess, as you can see by the backing I put on the holes.

After some putty, sanding, Tamiya surface primer, sanding, it looks a bit like something Frankenstein would put together, but not so horrible(?):

At any rate, I'm happy with the chassis progress:

Thanks for looking.

  • Member since
    October 2012
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 7:03 AM

This will have to do until I can figure out how to post correctly.   

http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/92433421@N06/8399798513/

  • Member since
    October 2012
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Sunday, January 20, 2013 4:53 PM

Just as soon as I figure it out, smellyfatdude.

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: Canada
Posted by smellyfatdude on Sunday, January 20, 2013 4:33 PM

Cool! Pictures?

introducing a leaner, fresher smellyfatdude 

Next builds:

Dunno

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2012
1970 Plymouth Roadrunner
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Sunday, January 20, 2013 4:28 PM
Using Bogger44's Hemi build from last year as a guide, I'm trying my hand at my first automobile model since the pre-teen years.

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