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1970 Plymouth Roadrunner

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  • Member since
    October, 2012
1970 Plymouth Roadrunner
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Sunday, January 20, 2013 4:28 PM
Using Bogger44's Hemi build from last year as a guide, I'm trying my hand at my first automobile model since the pre-teen years.
  • Member since
    March, 2008
  • From: Canada
Posted by smellyfatdude on Sunday, January 20, 2013 4:33 PM

Cool! Pictures?

introducing a leaner, fresher smellyfatdude 

Next builds:

Moebius ' 56 Chrysler 300B

 

 

  • Member since
    October, 2012
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Sunday, January 20, 2013 4:53 PM

Just as soon as I figure it out, smellyfatdude.

  • Member since
    October, 2012
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 7:03 AM

This will have to do until I can figure out how to post correctly.   

http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/92433421@N06/8399798513/

  • Member since
    October, 2012
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 9:41 AM

I believe I have it.  Please feel free to offer constructive criticism as I’m looking to improve my modeling and how I present them.

First one in at least 30 years, although I have a couple of tanks under my belt from the past couple of years.

Bogger44 did not want to cut down the molded-in knob aft of the water bottle because he did not want to create a headache on a quick build. I had no such compunction, but I did succeed in making an unholy mess, as you can see by the backing I put on the holes.

After some putty, sanding, Tamiya surface primer, sanding, it looks a bit like something Frankenstein would put together, but not so horrible(?):

At any rate, I'm happy with the chassis progress:

Thanks for looking.

  • Member since
    November, 2012
Posted by Daytonablue03z on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 9:59 AM

The engine bay looks great nice to see someone get back into modeling cars

"i live my life a quarter mile at a time, nothing else matters. For those 10 seconds or less I'm free" Vin Diesel from the fast and the furious

on the block 1985 Camaro z28 1966 altered wheelbase mustang fastback 1971 hemi duster 1970 1/2 Camaro z28

  • Member since
    March, 2011
  • From: Balto. Md.
Posted by CarGuy1963 on Thursday, January 24, 2013 5:39 AM

Great start idhtft. Keep up the good work. And keep those pics coming. CG63.

Its only plastic until you add imagination, CG63.

  • Member since
    March, 2009
  • From: western WI
Posted by bogger44 on Thursday, January 24, 2013 8:53 PM

Looking good!  I'm humbled that you've used mine as a guide/inspiration, thanks!  I couldn't have done it without the help of Fury3 though.  If you have any questions, feel free to ask.  Nice work on removing that fin behind the bottle on the inner fender, you're gutsier than I am. LOL!  I see you also removed the exhaust from the rear axle, nice.  It sure makes for a better look doesn't it?  What color is that you're going with?

  • Member since
    October, 2012
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Saturday, January 26, 2013 6:14 PM

Thanks all for checking in – even CG63 (my poor Patriots!). And thanks bogger44 – it’d be great to have you along on this build.

I am intimidated by Fury3’s encyclopedic knowledge, but more often than once I’ve thought of throwing out a line on a random question. Problem is, “paralysis by analysis” is very real with me (one question I had involved the gas tank straps – you can see where I might go with this). I have limited bench time as it is. While I’d like to make this super-accurate, I’ve also go to start (and finish) somewhere.

Removal of the rear fin in the engine compartment wasn’t guts – it was ignorance! What I’m left with is a difficult area to make presentable, and some gnarly patch panels in the wheel well. However, I think with some coolant lines in the engine compartment and the wheels and tires blocking the view, I should come up with a decent 20-footer. And if I didn’t separate the exhaust from the real axle it would have bugged me. I did manage to snap at least one exhaust pipe and one axle in the process (used a #11 fine-tooth saw blade), but remedied the situation with putty & patience.

The color is Scalefinishes Dodge B5 Bright Blue. I dropped some Scalefinishes White Sealer under two coats of the blue on the wheels:

There was a line inside the wheel that acted as a spacer between the inner & outer rims. I thought it made the wheels stand too proud of the tire, so I shaved it.

I just got a Parts by Parks distributor for the kit engine and wiring will be a first for me. Any good references on installing the wires & boots around the exhaust headers on a 440? It also doesn’t look like I have enough room to put the boots on the wires at the distributor. Am I right or am I lame?

Thanks again.

  • Member since
    March, 2006
  • From: Spring, Tx
Posted by modelcarjr on Saturday, January 26, 2013 7:37 PM

I am no expert on engine wiring but I try. On the 440, I put the exhaust manifolds on the engine and then just driiled two holes between the first exhaust port and the center exhaust port and then two more aft of the center. I didn't bother with boots as you won't see them anyway.  I normally use pre-wired distributors. Morgan Automotive has a nicely detailed distributor but I can never get the wire through a wire loom. Preston Car Parts also has pre-wired distributors but the distributor is basically nine wires stuffed in a hole but probably the wire will fit through a wire loom.

The one 440 that I wired myself I added boots on the distributor by cutting brake line wire into small pieces, gluing them to the tits on the distributor and then gluing the spark plug wire into the top of the brake line. After all was said and done I don't know that it was worth it but it kept me from drilling 9 tiny holes and braking the tits off the distributor. Here's a pic. The boot on the coil is the easiest to see.

If you cannot have a good time, what kinda time can you have? JR

Next on the bench:  1957 Corvette Gasser, 1955 Chevy (opening door older issue), 1957 "Black Widow", 2009 Dodge Challenger, 2013 Camaro, another 1970 Hemi 'Cuda,  probably not in this order.

  • Member since
    September, 2006
  • From: The Great Northwest (SPOKANE)
Posted by Space Cowboy on Saturday, January 26, 2013 8:39 PM

Looking great so far..Keep it coming...............

(I Love It When A Plan Comes Together) Hannibal Smith.

http://s116.photobucket.com/albums/o33/moose5147/

  • Member since
    December, 2005
  • From: Tennessee
Posted by SLUSHER on Saturday, January 26, 2013 10:20 PM

Really nice start.....Slusher

IT TAKES A LIVING SAVIOR TO SAVE A DYING WORLD....

  • Member since
    May, 2008
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, January 27, 2013 12:37 AM

The wheels look extra good for some reason..  I feel this post is worth paying attention to!!  Something big is coming!!  --S56>

  • Member since
    October, 2012
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Sunday, January 27, 2013 7:03 PM

Thanks for that JR.  I’ve just wired my first motor!  The good news is that it can only get better.  I’ll have to look into Morgan Automotive & Preston Car Parts distributors.  The Parts by Parks looks like it should go into a race car.

 

Those black lines are supposed to be 3/4" coolant hoses that go to the heater box, but they're looking a little narrow. 

I also did the magnetized assembly board trick for the wheels:

 

But I still ended up with some wheel hop:

 

I was going to heat up the chassis with a hairdryer and try to torque it back into place.  Anyone have any better ideas?

Thanks.

  • Member since
    March, 2009
  • From: western WI
Posted by bogger44 on Monday, January 28, 2013 12:41 PM

For your first time wiring a motor, it looks pretty good.  You even wired the right rear plug correctly.  I'm not sure what advise to give you about trying to straighten out the chassis.  A hair dryer might work, but just be really careful not to let plastic get too hot.  Some guys run hot water (not boiling) over the part and attempt to lightly twist it back into place.  On another note, about those kit supplied steel rims, they are incorrect for a factory Road Runner.  They were available only on heavy duty vehicles (police, fire, etc.)  I just wanted to give you a heads-up on them.  Nothing wrong in using them, though, as it's only a model.  Keep those pics coming!

  • Member since
    February, 2012
  • From: Central/Eastern Europe
Posted by felhasznaaloo on Tuesday, January 29, 2013 1:06 PM

Just a guess - to straighten out the chassis I would insert a piece of strong / stiff sheet metal like canned soup tin into the passenger side floor pan indent, about 1 millimetre too long, and superglue it there. It should still clear the inner tub and push downward the passenger side front enough to have all four wheels level. But then again, you need to test fit the interior and body with the chassis to determine where exactly it is warped. Rgds, Csaba

Next builds: '69 Charger, '62 Valiant, '70 Toronado, '68 Caddie DeVille...

  • Member since
    February, 2012
  • From: Central/Eastern Europe
Posted by felhasznaaloo on Monday, February 04, 2013 5:54 AM

Hey, nice color on that exhaust manifold :-D !  Nice wheels, too.

About wiring boots: I just dipped my wires into paint a few times then trimmed the ends. This way the thickness was just fair enough to create boots but they still fit on the distributor better than boots made of my next-size-at-hand wire would. True it was my first (and still is my first) wiring I've ever done.

I also have a feeling that wires sold as 'plug wires' are a little too thick or just not factory stock size. Those heater hoses look thin to me too. I check the sizes of questionable parts on 1:1 reference pictures against the sizes of other parts of the 1:1 car.

(Another thing - I would have cut the door handles off my Super Bee before painting the body, and carve them correct, but the idea came too late. Or maybe I saved myself big trouble.)

Regards, Csaba

Next builds: '69 Charger, '62 Valiant, '70 Toronado, '68 Caddie DeVille...

  • Member since
    December, 2004
  • From: Indiana
Posted by wabatuckeun on Monday, February 04, 2013 6:03 AM

Man that is one sharp color and it's looking great!You could try twisting the chasis but be very careful!

Stace

On the 8th day God created the HEMI and all the Bosses and Rats ran away!!!!
  • Member since
    October, 2012
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Tuesday, February 19, 2013 8:22 PM

So, the wife asked me when I was going to get around to finishing the entryway project in our home.  I had to admit, it was a good question.

I've only been getting into the basement on occasion, trying to make progress here & there.  One thing I did manage to do was ruin my air cleaner:

I finally figures out I'd prime with white, drybrush the screen with flat aluminum, seal it with clear, THEN mask & do the colors.  However, one too many dips in the purple pond and the mesh detail was wiped-out.  I tried to mickey-mouse a screen I fished out of an old cordless phone to get the texture back, but ended ended up with a mess.  Anyone else out there have a spare?

I also finally figured out what the three-picture limit is and the reason for it.  I've posted a few more pictures on flickr and intend to annotate each with comments during the build.  Please let me know if the following gets you there:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/92433421@N06/

Thanks all.

Chris

  • Member since
    February, 2012
  • From: Central/Eastern Europe
Posted by felhasznaaloo on Thursday, February 21, 2013 4:52 AM

Hey Chris,

The link works, you might want to edit it to open in a new window, though.

The air cleaner did that to me too. I would sand off the whole underside, leaving just the top, glue it on a smaller sheet styrene base (as the lid hangs over the filter on a 1:1), then some blister sheet of lets say pain killer has a texture close to what you need - that's what I used. :-) Though you need to find pills that come in a blister, not in a jar. Most do over here, luckily.

Regards, Csaba

Next builds: '69 Charger, '62 Valiant, '70 Toronado, '68 Caddie DeVille...

  • Member since
    October, 2012
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Sunday, February 24, 2013 4:39 PM

Not as good as I'd like it to be, but for a first go at dashboard detailing, I'll take it:

I opened the tach and speedo and placed the decals (still on the paper) from the back.  I ended up having to paint black around the decals because the holes ended up being larger than I figured.  Maybe next time around I'll use some sort of wash to get better sepparation between those front seats and the door panels. 

I started painting the body with some white undercoat.  It came out OK but for a monumental amount of dust twigs.  I also got what I believe is crazing on a patch on the hood - short lines in a random pattern.  I'm hoping to sand it down (along with the dust) and lay down color in the next week.

Thanks-

Chris

  • Member since
    December, 2004
  • From: Indiana
Posted by wabatuckeun on Sunday, February 24, 2013 5:04 PM

Looks Good! Nice work

Stace

On the 8th day God created the HEMI and all the Bosses and Rats ran away!!!!
  • Member since
    December, 2011
  • From: Central Pennsylvania
Posted by Dodge_Driver on Sunday, February 24, 2013 5:31 PM

I have an air cleaner from a Monogram '70 GTX. It looks the same, but it is molded in blue and has a noticible nick on the base. If you'd like I'll send it to you.

More a model starter than a model builder!

Planned Builds: '78 Dodge Sweptline street machine; Revell '69 Charger-440/6spd/18" wheels; Monogram '32 Ford Highboy.

  • Member since
    October, 2012
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Sunday, February 24, 2013 6:08 PM
Dodge Driver: thank you kindly for the offer, but another generous member of this forum is helping me out with an air cleaner.
  • Member since
    December, 2011
  • From: Central Pennsylvania
Posted by Dodge_Driver on Sunday, February 24, 2013 6:34 PM

Cool! Keep the pics coming! Thumbs Up

More a model starter than a model builder!

Planned Builds: '78 Dodge Sweptline street machine; Revell '69 Charger-440/6spd/18" wheels; Monogram '32 Ford Highboy.

  • Member since
    October, 2012
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Sunday, March 10, 2013 9:22 AM

So this is where it stands:  I have a color coat on the body that went down just fine, only I couldn't avoid all the dust flying around my basement. I'm waiting two weeks for it to gas out, then I'll wet sand and try another coat outside.

Even though I prepared the hood the same way, with the same paints, my white base coat crazed in spots. After stripping, washing, and avoiding primer, the white base coat crazed even more.  I'm going to try Tamya Surface Primer, since I can see the crazing in the plastic itself. The next car I do, I'll start with the body first, since I could be putting together other components while I wait. Spring cleaning will be taking on a whole new meaning this year as well, in an effort to tone down the dust & organize a better bench area.

I used way too much white glue for the headlight lenses, but the good thing is all but one of the lenses dried clear.  I still have a white, bubby mess behind the passenger-side, inboard lens.

Eh, live & learn.  I still enjoy the time I get to work on it.

Hints, tips & constructive criticism are welcome.

  • Member since
    March, 2008
  • From: Canada
Posted by smellyfatdude on Sunday, March 10, 2013 12:13 PM

Sorry to hear about your paint woes, idhtft. That's a sharp color, and that bird will look nice wearing that shade of blue. You didn't say, but it sounds like you're just painting out in the open when you're down in your basement. If that's the case, you need a more controllable enviroment to paint stuff, especially the bodies. You may be thinking big bucks, but think again. Here's my setup for a home made paint booth. Now, I know you're looking at this and saying, "But that's just a cardboard box". Yes it is, and I've painted every model I've ever built over the winter in this exact setup. A few in the summer, too when the weather outdoors sucks. See the hole on the side? That's where I insert the hose from a five gallon ShopVac, that acts as the exhaust. So, I guess you could say it's not an updraft or a downdraft paint booth, it's a side draft. Laugh When I have this set up on my kitchen counter, I clip a small LED lamp to the cupboard door, and it shines in at the right angle so I can see what I'm painting. Before I paint, I tap the sides of the box to knock any dust off the insides, and then I vacuum it out. Then I take a a spray bottle, and spray a fine mist of water on the inside surfaces, to further minimize any dust. Then fire up the ShopVac, and away I go. The most expensive component of this whole setup was, of couse, the ShopVac. But it's still cheaper than buying the cheapest paint booth. And of course if the box wears out, gets crushed or whatever you just go snag another box. I had the same issues with dust in my paint that you mentioned, but I tell you this thing works for me! My 2 Cents

                                                                                              Regards,
                                                                                                    sfd Smile, Wink & Grin

introducing a leaner, fresher smellyfatdude 

Next builds:

Moebius ' 56 Chrysler 300B

 

 

  • Member since
    October, 2012
Posted by Idonthavetimeforthis on Friday, March 15, 2013 6:26 AM
Thanks for the tips Csaba & sfd. I had similar thoughts for fixes myself, and it's good to know they've already been tried with success.
I had some cardboard and duct tape & used it to fashion a box, slapped the shop vac in there & away I went. I ended up with significantly less inclusions in the paint. Sometime down the road, I intend to get fabric shades that look like blinds to surround my work area. Pull them down when painting, lift them up when not.
The crazing was solved by a more liberal application of primer. Onward!
  • Member since
    December, 2008
Posted by dragon3870 on Friday, March 15, 2013 7:27 AM

i have the box paint booth as well but i cover the inside with thin window plastic and just toss the plastic ouyt when it starts getting overspray dust built up or other dust accumulated in it and the rolls of sheeting go along way

David V Davis

  • Member since
    August, 2012
Posted by heroncustom on Friday, March 15, 2013 7:45 AM
I do the same dagon3870 but instead of glass i use left over scrapes of 1/8 MDF board. Once its coated just replace it or flip it around.

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