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This is the first re-release of the 66 GT/GTA that has been sitting in my closet for a while. I decided to try to make a replica of the 67 GTA that I owned 1976-79. The body was cleaned up and the FAIRLANE letters were removed from the quarters as they were on the real car. The body and a Modelhaus '67 hood was sprayed with Testors Phoneician Yellow + clear. The real car was Springtime Yellow, but I thought the Phoneician Yellow was close enough for Government Work.
The chassis was sprayed with some crappy red primer I had, then given a sloppy overspray of yellow. Frame rails were painted black, and the fuel tank painted steel.The whole thing got a light coat of Dullcote.
The interior was painted Krylon semi-flat black, and the carpet painted flat black. Seat belts were added. The kit pedals were outlined with silver, and a little circle of silver was added to the brake pedal to simulate the "DISC BRAKES" emblem of the 1:1 car. The interior was detailed with silver paint and BMF. I'm still working on the dash. A Modelhaus 67 Galaxie steering wheel was painted black and detailed with silver to "somewhat" replicate the "boxing glove" 67 wheel.forgot how many little chrome strips the real car's interior had until I consulted Flea Bay.
A Modelhaus 67 grille has had the headlights detailed with Testors clear glue per 59 Chevy Impala's tip in his Buick thread. The GT emblem was painted blue and the parking lights amber. I still need to remove the top grille bar that represents the hood molding because the kit has a separate hood molding. I need to apply a black wash and some flat steel details to finish the grille. I am still detailing the backup lamp area of the Modelhaus 67 taillamp bezels.
The kit engine was sprayed with Ford engine blue and the C6 sprayed aluminum with a "steel" pan. The intake was painted aluminum because the 1:1 had an Offenhauser intake. I resisted the impulse to tint some clear with red and apply a wash to simulate the constant transmission leaks I battled on the real car. I am using the chrome "Powered By Ford" valve covers from the Bullitt Mustang kit. The Fairlane distributor had the vacuum advance removed, the base painted aluminum and the cap painted red to simulate the 1:1 car's Mallory dual point. I am in the process of trying to make the kit's incorrect carburetor look more like the real cars' dual inlet 4150 Holley. Heater hoses have been added to the firewall, and I plan on PCV hoses and plug wires. I'm not sure what to do about an air cleaner. The 67 390 GT used kind of an oddball unit with two screens in the sides and no snorkel. I will probably modify one of my parts box units. Thanks to this helpful forum and its peer pressure, I succesfully cast a resin copy of a power brake booster and dual master cylinder that will be used. I will probably make a vacuum line for it. Parts box headers were sprayed flat black to simulate the Cyclones on the real car. They will be hooked up to the kit's exhaust system. The 1:1 67 tailpipes exited downward behind the rear wheels, but I will probably keep the rear exit of the kit's pipes.
I will either use the Bullitt's drive belts or attempt to cast a P/S pump. Some parts box Mustang will either give up its P/S ram cylinder or I will copy it.
Next step is the GT stripes and BMF for the body. The chrome on the rear of the hood pods may be a challenge.
I spent the day working in the yard today rather than working on the Fairlane :-(
My S-10 needs an oil change and the Mazda and Subaru need a wash, so I don't know how much time tomorrow I will spend either.
I'm watching your build with great anticipation. I hate to utilize the over used and abused term "rare", but in this case I must. The original AMT 1967 Fairlane annual kit (# 5167-170) has got to be one of the "rarest" () of all Ford kits...the current value prices of them clearly reflect that ($210.00 for the 3 in 1 version!). It's good to know that with combining "Modelhaus" resin components from these kits they can be rather easily adapted to the more current AMT 1966 kits. Outside of the hood reveal molding, are there any other modifications necessary to fit the old 1967 resin hood to the newer kit's 1966 body? I've been wanting to attempt this conversion for years...it's the only Fairlane I'm missing in my collection. By the way, great WIP and writing skills! Simply can't wait to see this one completed. Fury3
Current Photo Album of : my 1.1 vehicles, some old scale model builds, and interesting 1.1 vehicles My Photobucket
The Modelhaus hood is a little wider than the 66 kit hood. I taped the 66 hood to the top of the 67 hood and made pencil lines on the 67 hood. Then I took a flat file and removed material until they were the same width. Don carried forward the incorrect "428" emblems from the original tool, so they have to be removed. I don't know what to do about replacing them with "390" emblems, maybe nothing. The grille was taped on for the photo. When the final attachment is made, I will probably have to make some plastic brackets to attach it to the fenders securely. I haven't tried to attach the 67 taillights, but they look like they will go right on with the addition of a pilot hole in the body or the removal of the locating pin on the lenses.
Differences between 66 and 67 Fairlanes:
Dash -- 67 had raised bezels around the fuel gage and clock. Most folks looking at the model won't notice, so I won't go there. 66 had a stainless band across the bottom where the knobs go. 67 had a ribbed band that was only as wide as the instrument bezel, unless the car had A/C. I removed the excess molding from the 66 dash, but still need to finesse it a bit.
Steering wheel -- 67 corporate steering wheels had a "boxing glove" pad in the middle of the hub. The Modelhaus Galaxie wheel is "more correct" than the kit's 66 wheel, but not exact. You could build a bigger boxing glove to be more accurate. IIRC, there was a boxing glove wheel with a fake woodgrain rim, but mine didn't have it.
Brakes -- 67 390s had mandatory power disc brakes. 67 was the first year of tandem master cylinders. I copied a Mustang MC+booster in resin that I will probably use. I am trying to get a decent copy of the Talladega unit as it has the correct Midland-Ross booster. I used to P-Off my friend Bryan because I could get slowed down enough to take the first return road at the local dragstrip. His all-drum Road Runner couldn't, so he had to take the second one. That usually meant I could take 5-6 more runs than he could in an evening ;-)
GT lower fender emblem -- 66 had the "shield" emblem for GT and GTA versions. 67 had separate "GT" letters or a rectangular "GTA" emblem that was shared with the 67 Mustang. I have the Keith Marks decal set for the 67 Mustang and may use the GTA emblem from that. I have been trying to figure out how to print small things on my inkjet printer without too much success. If I can figure that out, I will make my own GTA emblem and save the Marks decals for a possible Mustang build. Plans are in place for reproducing the yellow-on-blue 828 NTU California plates and the "Carroll Shelby is alive and well and living under the hood" bumper sticker that the 1:1 had.
Trunk molding -- 67 uses a narrower ribbed molding with "FORD" letters between the backup lamps. Keith Marks reproduces this in his 67 500/XL decal set. I may order that, or I might try to make my own with strip and BMF. The 67 used the "Fairlane GT" emblem below the molding, just like the one cast into the 66 trunk molding.
A quick observation I've made of one of the differences between the "new" AMT 66 versus the original 67 is that the taillight bezel appears to be wider than the 66 bezel. Did you notice that Steve, or was I halucinating? My first car was a 67 2D hardtop with 289, so the 66-7 Fairlanes have always had a special place in my heart. Scott
Yes, the 67 bezel seems a little wider than the 66 bezel. It should fit on the opening in the 1/4 panel OK though.
I have never seen the original 67 kit in person, I don't think.
This is turning out nice ! Great color choice !