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Attaching metal to plastic/resin

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  • Member since
    March, 2019
  • From: Longview, Texas
Attaching metal to plastic/resin
Posted by OldSkool50 on Thursday, March 14, 2019 12:27 PM

So, as I mentioned in my introduction, I'm an old school modeler who is just now returing to the hobby after some 40+ years of being away. I have discovered that modeling is extremely different today that when I was bulding kits as a kid. Case in point, I am noticing that there are people who make metal pieces and such for these cars nowdays.


My question is.........if I wanted to put a metal 4-link kit in one of my plastic 1/25 Revell kits, how are those metal surfaces attached to the plastic frame of the car? Are you guys using super glue or something similar??? I'm just too far behind the times I guess.

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  • Member since
    March, 2017
  • From: Brighton England
Posted by Spencer Mopar Fan on Thursday, March 14, 2019 3:58 PM

1 , Welcome back , love ya stuff so far Thumbs UpStick out tongueYes

2 , I use superglue gel . Just a pin head into the tip of the tubes nozzle &

steady with the hands .

3, Good luck Smile, Wink & Grin

4... if you're going to do etched seatbelt (s) eventually , the parts are minute - don't rush .. I did , they are now spares / repairs Bang Head

  • Member since
    March, 2019
  • From: Longview, Texas
Posted by OldSkool50 on Thursday, March 14, 2019 4:02 PM

Awesome!  Thanks for the comments and suggestions. This stuff has gotten so much more detailed that I would have ever dreamed of when I was a kid, LOL.

  • Member since
    January, 2017
Posted by 195X on Thursday, March 14, 2019 4:23 PM

Whenever possible, scuff the spot where your glue is going to go for just a little better adhesion. Super glue gel and five minute epoxy are the best glues for this. When working with parts on a sprue: DO NOT skimp on a pair of miniature metal snips. Micro mark has a nice one for low $. Place your etched "fret" on a large piece of masking tape before cutting the parts. This avoids the inevitable and your tiny, hard to see up close let alone on the carpet part, will not fly away!

If it is a surface part such as a body emblem or script, you'll want to use a clear medium. I've seen/heard of guys using but not limited to: Watch crystal cement, Micro crystal clear from Micro Mark, futureshine (used to be pledge), Elmer's and clear paint. All are good choices. (Except maybe Elmer's, never understood that one.)

Make sure you've cleaned and polished the parts (if necessary) before using and mounting them. Always wash your hands well before handling etched parts. They will retain their polish for years if clear coated. The best clear coat will be U.V. restrictive or U.V. safe. Otherwise ten years from now, your car is trimmed in gold. I hope these tips help.

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

  • Member since
    December, 2003
  • From: Nova Scotia
Posted by Bainford on Thursday, March 14, 2019 8:19 PM

Get some super thin CA (super glue, etc) as well. I find it to be most useful for its wicking properties. You may find you will use CA glues more in your building. I do now. Once you learn it’s quirks it is hugely useful, especially if you are playing with metal    Just don’t get it near chrome or clear parts. When the stuff kicks it gives off a gas that will frost some surfaces. 

Bob Smith Industries (BSI) is probably the most popular brand in the hobby. They offer CA glue in several viscosities from super thin to gel. But any brand will do including cheap dollar store stuff. 

And if you’re going to use CA, you got to get some accelerator, also called kicker. One drop on a glued joint and it will cure immediately. Super useful stuff. It comes in a pump spray bottle, but I draw some out with a pipette or small dropper for controlled application, placing a drop just where I need it. 

Perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.
       - Antoine de Saint-Exepury


  • Member since
    March, 2019
  • From: Longview, Texas
Posted by OldSkool50 on Friday, March 15, 2019 8:08 AM
Thanks everyone. I have been using CA for 25+ building my Radio Control Airplanes. I have plenty of CA so that won't be a problem, LOL. All you guys have given some very good info, just what I was looking for. Thanks. Zack


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