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Help!! Can't match the white on aftermarket resin piece!

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  • Member since
    February 2008
Help!! Can't match the white on aftermarket resin piece!
Posted by justmike on Friday, November 9, 2018 7:49 PM

I have painted a model in white and the hood has come out a different shade of white than the rest of the car. I have sanded down the hood, reprimered and up to this point have used every little bottle of Testors enamel white, Model master white acrylic, Tamiya white acrylic and whatever other color white I have and still cannot get the white on the hood to match the white on the car. The unpainted resin piece looks whiter than the painted part of it. Does resin have an ingredient that can bleed into the white paint and if so, how do I fix this? I am up to at least a dozen coats of paint between the primer and whites I have used.  

Feelings are like scents: The more they are analyzed, the worse they smell.
  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Portland Oregon: Tree Country. Most beautiful area on the West coast.
Posted by Treehugger Dave on Friday, November 9, 2018 9:56 PM

There are so many variables that it's hard for anyone to really answer your question.

Familiarity with your paints and primers is an absolute necessity, as well as your resin pieces. Sometimes hood and body are cast separately from different resin formulas, so having a primer that acts as a barrier coat can make a huge difference.

For most of us experience has been the best teacher, and we've all had to muddle through these same kind of issues until we get it right and through it all we learn for the next time.

I have played with resin bodies for years, so personally I would suggest you find a good marine grade degresser/paint remover for fiberglass boats and strip the whole project and start over. Be careful not to use any strippers used for plastic kits as they will destroy your resin project.

Remember that resin bodies and kits are a whole different animal and present challanges that plastic doesn't, and force us to learn new techniques. The learning curve can be frustrating, but as you stay with it and move forward, you'll gain new skills that make building that much more enjoyable.

Good luck.Thumbs Up







  • Member since
    February 2008
Posted by justmike on Friday, November 9, 2018 11:19 PM

I appreciate your response Dave. I should have made clear that the body is a regular plastic model kit. The hood is the resin piece. I have used Duplicolor Primer and then did the car body and hood at the same time in the white I airbrushed. The hood went a different shade of white from the body! Is there a better primer to seal off the hood with so that the white stays white?

Feelings are like scents: The more they are analyzed, the worse they smell.
  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Portland Oregon: Tree Country. Most beautiful area on the West coast.
Posted by Treehugger Dave on Saturday, November 10, 2018 6:53 PM

Thanks for clarifying your issue.

All paints are transparent and sensitive to primer colors.

I don't know how you build your models, but I always paint my models as a one piece unit, even if there are opening doors, hood and trunk. I first tape off and spray the jams and edges of the opening features, let all dry then assemble everything and spray. I never spray body parts separately as I found it impossible to get the same shade of color. Pieces always varied  like your describing and what I see here all the time on this site and at the shows I go to.

I think your suffering the same problem. Even if you use the same primer, painting the parts separately will always give different shades with any color.

Jamming first, and painting the edges of the opening features and then assembling is a lot more work but gives great results as everything is the same SHADE of color.

Some of the Duplicolor primers are great to use. I use some myself, but developing a painting system that is repeatable will eliminate any painting problems 99% of the time.

I haven't stripped anything I painted in probably 15 years. I have a painting system that is simple and just works, and if I'm going to do anything different or use a paint I'm not familiar with , I get out the plastic white picnic spoons.

Good luck.








  • Member since
    July 2011
Posted by Racer H on Saturday, November 10, 2018 11:35 PM


If I had this color matching problem … I would contact the maker of the resin component for their opinion/advice/guidance.


  • Member since
    July 2018
Posted by OldTallDad on Sunday, November 11, 2018 4:48 AM

If you've ever tried to paint white on a model molded in red plastic, you end up with a pink tint instead of white. This can be remedied by first applying a coat of silver paint, letting it dry, then spray the white. 

You might want to try this on the bottom-side of your hood.

  • Member since
    October 2008
Posted by oldcarguy on Sunday, December 2, 2018 10:03 AM


 Okay.Next time you prime a model use Ditzler Pearl Gray Primer In an airbrush , thin it to these qualities 55% thinner,The rest 45% paint .OR use Krylon Pearl Grey Primer in the RattleCan .I think they just call it grey .

 The thing is this , Because of the innate transluscency of paint a difference in shade will be seen if the whole thing is not painted at the same time .Never paint doors,hoods,trunks without the body Except for the basic spritz with frost of color this is never done (or shouldn't be done ) on a real car either.

 Why ? because of the possibility of a change of color values in the unit and it's parts .They should never be painted separate and always primed together . I never use White Primer unless I am painting a Cruise Ship model . Or, after the grey when reds and other colors must be more vision intensive !

  • Member since
    November 2006
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Bluesman Mark on Sunday, December 2, 2018 6:08 PM

Having a diploma in auto body & paint, & having spent many years painting 1/1 vehicles, both in body shops & for a major truck manufacturer, (as well as mixing paints on the job), some of the advice given in this thread, while somewhat helpful, is also filled with inaccuracies that can merely add more confusion.

Unless it is a transparent, candy or pearl color, "all" paints are not transparent/translucent. The majority of paints are opaque, which means not able to be seen through, the opposite of transparent.

Now, that being said, it is true that different color primers can affect the tint of even an opaque paint, skewing it enough to make it look different. Even with that, you don't "need" to just use one color or brand of primer for everything you build. I've used Duplicolor primers for years on every model I built, (white, grey & red oxide), with excellent results. You do want to use the same color/brand throughout a build, & getting the primer on all the body parts in a single session is advisable, but other than that, any difference in the topcoat of a resin part vis-à-vis a plastic one has to do with a chemical reaction between the paint/primer & the part itself, if you have used the same primer, paint & painted the parts in the same session. Did you wash the mold release off the resin part before shooting the primer? If not, that's the likely possibility for the problem.

Soak it about twelve hours, (up to twenty four), in a whitewall tire cleanser. I use Black Magic Bleche-White tire cleaner, (used to be Westley's, same thing), then rinse the parts, wash them in Dawn dishwasing liquid, rinse again, air dry, tack off with a tack cloth, & then shoot the primer coats at the same time you shoot the primer on the other parts. If the problem persists, you'll need to contact the resin part maker & find out what could be causing it.

A final word on primers & opaque paints; while they can change the tint of a top coat, you can use this to your advantage. For example, in the lates 60s, both the Banjo Matthews Ford & the K&K Insurance Dodge NASCAR teams used Ford's Poppy Red, which has an orangish tint, as a top coat. However, the Matthew's Ford looked more orange & the K&K Dodge looked more red.

To replicate the differences I used Tamiya TS-31 Bright Orange as a top coat, but for the Ford I used Duplicolor white primer to make the color brighter, & for the Dodge I found that the Duplicolor red oxide, (after experimenting on spoons with both that & gray under the orange), was about the right tint for it. Still, the difference between the two was minimal, even with the different primers, just as one would expect with an opaque top coat. But then, the 1/1s were much the same.

Remember, "good enough" can always be better. Refusal to improve is just an acceptance of your own mediocrity.

  • Member since
    February 2008
Posted by justmike on Sunday, December 2, 2018 7:46 PM

Thanks for that info. I did wash the resin hood but I didn't use the products you recommended. I did primer the plastic kit body and the resin hood with the same primer and I did paint all the respective white pieces at the same time with the same white, put them away to cure for as many months as it took me to do the chassis and engine and interior. Thats when I finally noticed the difference in color. I stripped the resin hood using Easy Off oven cleaner, primered and still could not get the same white, ( and I used all 4 brands of white I have too ). A couple of weeks ago I went to an autobody shop and asked a fellow what's the whitest white he has seen. He told me Toyota Ultra white, which I found in a rattlecan at Lordco and which coincidentally enough I will be trying tomorrow as its finally not raining here on the wet coast. If that don't work......I give up!  So we'll see how that goes.

Feelings are like scents: The more they are analyzed, the worse they smell.
  • Member since
    February 2016
Posted by Plowboy on Tuesday, December 4, 2018 9:19 AM

If you're trying to match the hood to the body with different paint, I don't think it will ever happen. You need to use the same paint. Even then, it's a crap shoot. I would strip the hood and start over. This time, spray one coat at a time and allow it to dry until it's close enough. Then, tape the hood to the body and spray the whole thing as a unit. If that doesn't work, you may have to strip the whole thing and start over.

I had to do that with the last white paint job I did. It was a '70 GSX. I had done the body work and shot it with white primer. There was a spot in the primer that needed extra sanding. Naturally, I went through the primer in that spot. I could see that the primer was a slightly different shade than the styrene. But, I figured white styrene, white primer, white paint, no problem. After the third coat of Tamiya Pure White, the spot still showed through the paint! Since, I was going to clear over the paint and decals, I decided to strip it and start over. 


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