SEARCH SCALEAUTOMAG.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Masking over decals AFTER clearcoating. Who can tell me if its safe to do?

277 views
4 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    February, 2008
Masking over decals AFTER clearcoating. Who can tell me if its safe to do?
Posted by justmike on Friday, September 22, 2017 10:23 PM

I am doing the Michael Andretti Motorola car and the only way I can see doing the decals is to lay them on the white painted parts first and then mask them AFTER clearcoating so that I can do the blue. I have always made templates of decals with tape, layed the tape down where the color border will be and then done the second color, then put down the decals after all the painting is done. I just cannot see that process working due to the intricacy of the graphics on this car. I would hope that enough clear coats will keep Tamiya tape from lifting the aftermarket decals by IndyCal, but its not something I want to try until I can get some feedback. Has anyone got an answer for me?

Feelings are like scents: The more they are analyzed, the worse they smell.
  • Member since
    December, 2007
  • From: Portland Oregon: Tree Country. Most beautiful area on the West coast.
Posted by Treehugger Dave on Friday, September 22, 2017 11:35 PM

justmike

I am doing the Michael Andretti Motorola car and the only way I can see doing the decals is to lay them on the white painted parts first and then mask them AFTER clearcoating so that I can do the blue. I have always made templates of decals with tape, layed the tape down where the color border will be and then done the second color, then put down the decals after all the painting is done. I just cannot see that process working due to the intricacy of the graphics on this car. I would hope that enough clear coats will keep Tamiya tape from lifting the aftermarket decals by IndyCal, but its not something I want to try until I can get some feedback. Has anyone got an answer for me?

 

I think I can help ya.

First off make sure the decals have dried for at least a day - 2 days is better

I use spray can clear lacquer. Just like the 1 to 1 guys hit the body with a light first coat.

Dry 15 minutes 2nd coat a little heavier - dry 15 minutes then shoot a wet coat.

Let that dry overnight - wet scuff with 600 wet or dry paper until the orange peel is gone. Most people wait too long to scuff and you read about all kinds of problems here - mostly alligatoring where their follow up coats attack the over-dried paints and ruin everything.

Once you scuffed it smoothe with the 600, hit it with 1000 grit both scuffed WET.

Once your happy wipe it down with a damp cloth and dry. Blow it off and shoot a light to slightly wet coat. Dry 15 minutes and shoot a wet coat. You'll notice how gloss smooth it is .

I don't sand for the final finishing. If you did it right all you need is NOVUS #2 Plastic Polish and a soft polishing cloth and about 2-3 hours, a lay back chair and a high def flat screen in front of you with  a cup of tea or your favorite drink of choice and set to work to be blinded by the shine. Takes a while but you'll love it.

Now this was your scrap sample piece as you have to practice before you lay it down on your project with all those fancy decals. We're not done yet.

Now this is where it gets tricky, and why you do samples. If your paint doesn't dry long enough you'll get mark-off from the tape which can be hard to rub off

From this point on I can't help you because every paint has it's own dry time and reacts badly under certain circumstances thats why you always do samples to see what goes sideways.

Yeah, everybody thinks painting is a no brainer until they screw it up over and over.

Painting isn't plug and play, it's darn hard no matter how good you are and then you add decals to make it harder.

Here's a tip for removing the tape over the decals. Peal the tape off at an angle lifting just one corner and peal slowly so the tape comes up diagonally so that only a small surface area is being tugged while removing the tape SLOWLY so you don't lift the scrap decal you used on your scrap sample piece....or you can skip the sample and you can throw your model car away and start over because you didn't learn how on a scrap sample Bang Head.

Yup....a lot of work to do it right.

I love Mecum Auctions and Barrett/Jackson auctions and what would I do without Ebay.

 

 

                                     

 

 

  • Member since
    February, 2008
Posted by justmike on Friday, September 22, 2017 11:50 PM

Thankyou Dave.  I am going to do as you recommend. I have a can of automotive clear and some of the white paint too. What I wish I had were extra Indycal decals!  lol  However, I have to hope that 4 to 5 coats of clear will prevent the decals from being lifted. Thanks again for that reply. I will definitely keep you posted on how it goes.

Feelings are like scents: The more they are analyzed, the worse they smell.
  • Member since
    August, 2015
  • From: Hamptonville, NC
Posted by TarheelRick on Saturday, September 23, 2017 8:24 AM

" What I wish I had were extra Indycal decals!"  Doesn't the decal sheet have some form of identification numbers or lettering along the edges?  Those should be sufficient sacrificial decals to use in practicing.  HTH.

I build models because I can't afford the real thing!

  • Member since
    February, 2008
Posted by justmike on Saturday, September 23, 2017 11:29 AM

Surprisingly it doesn't. In fact, I don't even see a cut in the decal sheet for each of the graphics. I will have to trim each piece carefully myself.  I could cut out a chunk of clear, but its clear, so I wouldn't be able to tell if it got lifted with the tape or not. lol  Its amazing to me that with all the decal work I have done on this Indy car series that I have never yet had to put a decal down first and then clear coat, then mask over it and then paint around it. This will be a new challenge for me. I can't wait to get going on it

Feelings are like scents: The more they are analyzed, the worse they smell.

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

FREE MONTHLY NEWSLETTER
SUBSCRIBER-ONLY CONTENT