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Chinese Made Models

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  • Member since
    July, 2016
  • From: Podunk, Illinois
Posted by smhardesty on Wednesday, January 04, 2017 1:36 PM

rustyroach

The hinge thing sounds feasible and I think some reinforcement under the hinges is a good idea. The trouble with foamboard is that the surface is just paper. Picture corrugated box material but made of plastic. Its very light. Its cheap enough to experiment with. I first bought it to make little boxes for making casting molds. You should check it out the next time you're in Lowe's. Its with the "garage sale" and "for sale" signs. Really, you could just tape it together. I may try this myself.

 

I’ll check it out for sure. Sounds like it might be what I’m looking for. I’ll let everybody know what happens with this project idea. I’m headed to Evansville, In next week. Hopefully I’ll have time to pop in a Lowes and check on it. Thanks.

 

Steve

On the bench - Right now, a mess.

  • Member since
    September, 2011
Posted by Arthur Anderson on Saturday, January 07, 2017 5:47 AM

tbone

Hello friends. I have a tip for you if you have purchased a Chinese made polystyrene model. Many of the current models that are on the store shelves these days are made in China. Of course, the quality contol is fairly poor inasmuch as the Chinese just want to churn out as much product as they can without any concern how well made they are. Plenty of "flash" to trim off but that can be dealt with ok. Here's the big problem - Chinese made polystrene models have huge traces of hydralic oil on them from the molding process. Their moldng presses are rudimentary at best. So, paint simply wont adhere very well with the oil on the pieces. Here's what you should do. Wash all of the parts in a warm bath with a strong detergent like Dawn or any other dishwashing detergent. You'll be glad you did. I do this with all models not just Chinese made ones. Never have any paint adhereance problems. But the Chinese models are absolutely the worst with oil issues. 

 

Uh, It would be easy to dismiss what you are saying as being "Just a one-size-fits-all" review, but I find that just isn't correct.  Now, for sure, much of Round2's AMT and MPC reissues have flash problems, but guess what?   Those model car kit tools had flash problems frequently when they were first introduced decades ago.  Fast forward to the newly tooled and produced model car kits of today--most newly tooled model car kits released under US-brands are tooled, and molded in China (particularly Moebius and Revell-USA) and are as well-molded, and flash-free as can be (I'm perusing my Revell '66 Bronco--no flash on those parts.

The difference here is in the tooling--model kit tooling cut back in the 50's through the early 90's was very prone to both flash and "short-shots" (where the plastic failed to completely fill a cavity--notably on body shells) due in large part to the much less precise mating surfaces of the steel dies and very large tooling bases (those old AMT and MPC tools tended to be about 2' X 4' in size), where modern model kit tooling tends to be a good bit smaller.  Flash and short-shots are a matter of temperature control with older tooling--if the plastic is too hot (meaning much thinner in consistency) it can squeeze out around the mating surfaces of the tooling--flash.  If it's not hot enough, meaning that it's not as liquid--it may not flow all the way together in cavities (cavities are where the actual model car kit parts are molded BTW) with multiple injection points, then the too-cool plastic cannot flow together before it starts to harden.

With this in mind, I would caution against making such blanket statements--as the issues you raise about model kits molded in China (or anywhere else for that matter) did happen, sometimes quite a lot when model kits used to be molded in the US.

  • Member since
    October, 2008
Posted by oldcarguy on Saturday, January 07, 2017 11:26 AM

Hi;

    I always wash models no matter where they are made . This is a habit I got into years ago when doing the old Multi-Piece bodies from Revell . I learned this real quick when building their ships and learning to use my first Badger air brush !

 Remember , back then Testors square bottles were the only thing available .Mix and match to get what you want .   O.C.G.

gjgeracci
  • Member since
    July, 2016
Posted by tbone on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 2:02 AM

Yes, what you say is certainly true. But the issue that you leave out of your post is "quality control" or "quality assurance" with respect to injection molding pertaining to polystyrene molding and virtually all other resin molding. With companies that engage in modern molding no product should be allowed to leave the factory with excessive flash or shorts. A sample is taken off of the press every hour or two hours, and if there is flash or shorts, all product that has been produced in that time frame is scrapped.

Moderator
  • Member since
    November, 2003
Posted by jhaught on Wednesday, January 11, 2017 8:13 AM

OK, enough. I agree with Art: Don't make blanket statements about quality control, unless you have personally seen and can report on every manufacturer in China.

Jim Haught

  • Member since
    July, 2016
Posted by tbone on Saturday, January 14, 2017 4:00 AM

OK, that is reasonable. This has just been my experience.

  • Member since
    August, 2005
  • From: Fall River, Ma.
Posted by baycolony on Saturday, January 14, 2017 7:52 AM

I will be careful and make a statement only based on my personal experience and it is this:  I have built and am building presently, (Great Wall Hobby Mig-29), models made by Chinese companies that churn out their own kits, and I have to say that they are very nicely molded.  This can't be said for SOME Chinese companies that manufacture models for other companies originating in the US.  It seems that these are more crudely made.

 Here is a link to my other completed kits: 

http://public.fotki.com/GilCosta/

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