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Dupli-color question

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  • Member since
    September, 2015
Dupli-color question
Posted by Stryker 3285 on Friday, September 11, 2015 7:12 PM

I normally do armor, aircraft, and some sci-fi and ships,  but lately have been bitten by the Muscle Car bug.  I've got a Revell '70 Challenger T/A ready to paint.  Wanting it to look good and not being a fan of normal (Testors/Krylon) rattle can paints, I decided to go with Dupli-color to paint the body and get a more accurate color (especially after Krylon went on terribly and I had to strip it and sand away the marring it did to the body).  So I've put on several thin coats and am very happy with the results; it went on thinly and didn't hide or distort any detail.  It also went on flat, which I figure isn't a problem.  I think I know the answers to the following questions/observations, but want to be sure:

1.  Does Dupli-color go on flat and need a clear/gloss coat to bring out the shine? (with some wet sanding to smooth it out prior to application; I've started rubbing it down with a paper towel as a very fine grit sander and it is already bringing out a shine)

2.  Can I use Pledge/Future to clear coat the body or am I better off hitting my local auto parts store (or maybe Wally World) and get Dupli-color clear to seal and gloss the body?

3.  I plan on hand brushing details (like turn signals, the battery, and other items in the engine bay) before clear coating.  So far, so good? 

4.  I also want to use Bare-Metal foil for the chrome trim and think this should go on last after clear coating?

I  really like Dupli-color so far, very easy to use.  I'm also getting into airbrushing and looking forward to using it as well to see if I can get my skills to a higher level.  I've started collecting car kits and am looking forward to having a small fleet of cars down the road.

And in advance, thanks for taking the time to read this and answer my questions!

Doug

  • Member since
    January, 2011
  • From: long island, new york
Posted by chucky on Friday, September 11, 2015 10:02 PM

Hi, Doug! I'll try to briefly point you in the right direction. First, be careful with Krylon and other hardware-store type paints. If they claim to be for painting plastic items (like lawn furniture), beware because they have a component that "etches" the plastic surface for better adhesion. You don't want this for models, as you have discovered. The current line of Dupli-Color spray paints are intended to be clear-coated like the OEM finish, which also uses a base coat that dries without gloss for better clear coat adhesion. I have gotten good results by spraying the base coats on the body at ten minute intervals. After the paint dries for a couple of days, I lightly wet-sand the finish with 2000 grit sandpaper to remove any dust or other defects. I then apply a light coat of the same basecoat to get even dispersion of the paint, especially the metallics and pearls. I then apply at least four coats of Dupli-Color clear and polish out as necessary when thoroughly dry. The spray can labels are printed in a very small font, but the basic instructions for base-coating and clear-coating are listed on the label. Dupli-Color primer is also my favorite primer. I don't really like Future as a clear coat but many folks here do use it. You can decant the Dupli-Color for airbrush use and their decanted colors can be mixed to get a shade you may want that they don't offer. I find that the metallic tends to separate out quickly, so drop two or three BB's into the airbrush jar to help with agitation to keep the metallic or pearl in suspension. If you are hand-brushing underhood items, you might want to clear coat first since the varying levels of gloss on underhood items adds realism. You will want to apply foil after polishing out the clearcoat as it doesn't like to stick well to non-glossy surfaces. Good luck with your projects and be sure to post some along the way. Be sure to look though the bodywork and painting section under "Tips and Techniques" below for other helpful paint-related tips. Some can also be found using the search function (the magnifying glass near the top of the page). 

 

chucky

  • Member since
    September, 2015
Posted by Stryker 3285 on Saturday, September 12, 2015 11:28 AM

Thanks Chucky, looks like I get to go to the auto parts store today and if it stops raining this weekend, get some coating done!

  • Member since
    June, 2013
  • From: Sugarloaf, PA
Posted by Johnt on Saturday, September 12, 2015 1:13 PM
I've built several models with Duplicolor and Pledge and I've been happy with the results. I'm doing one now using Duplicolr clearcoat to compare. Here's a couple of Pledge pictures.
  • Member since
    February, 2008
Posted by justmike on Saturday, September 12, 2015 11:57 PM

The biggest problem with Future is that it doesn't polish out very well. If you have any kind of problem to fix my experience with it is that the gloss coat will get ruined. 

Feelings are like scents: The more they are analyzed, the worse they smell.
  • Member since
    January, 2005
  • From: Cape Coral Florida
Posted by BigTallDad on Sunday, September 13, 2015 8:13 AM

In case you've never worked with BMF before...

http://www.italianhorses.net/Tutorials/BareMetalFoil/bmf.htm

 

"In order to teach a dog, you must first be smarter than the dog" P.R. Ferguson

  • Member since
    September, 2015
Posted by Stryker 3285 on Sunday, September 13, 2015 11:42 AM

BigTallDad,

That's great; I've seen lots of info dealing with BMF, but that has to be the best tutorial I've seen yet.  Thank you very much.  Bookmarking it now!

Doug

  • Member since
    January, 2005
  • From: Cape Coral Florida
Posted by BigTallDad on Sunday, September 13, 2015 12:24 PM

You're welcome. Glad I could help.

"In order to teach a dog, you must first be smarter than the dog" P.R. Ferguson

  • Member since
    March, 2008
  • From: SW Missouri
Posted by bill_rules on Sunday, September 13, 2015 2:07 PM

Looks like some of the tutrials from the old "Brian's Model Cars" on the Itaitalianhorses site.

 

my builds... and trade fodder....

http://public.fotki.com/bill-rules/

  • Member since
    March, 2004
  • From: Howell, NJ, USA
Posted by glenncon on Friday, September 25, 2015 9:59 AM

I go with 1. Tamiya Sprays, 2. Testors Laquers or 3. everything else. Colors are more closely matched now in the model paint world and both Tamiya and Testors have clear topcoats available. The upside is total compatability and laquer model paints wont eat styrene. Try Humbrol enamals for metallic shades, especially gun metal #53, Aluminum #56 and Flat black #33. I've become a spray can enthusiast after mastering my airbrush. all I ever did was clean that b!tch.

http://photobucket.com/albums/v242/glenncon/ Glenn Conigliaro

  • Member since
    September, 2011
Posted by Hemi Killer on Saturday, September 26, 2015 2:28 AM

This is DupliColor Engine Enamel form a spray can, then sanded and polished. No clearcoat. 

 

  • Member since
    May, 2019
Posted by plydude55 on Saturday, July 27, 2019 4:42 PM

I have used duplicolor on the last couple of cars I have built, I really like it. The primer lays down good, an the paint does too.

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