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3D printer to make model parts

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  • Member since
    June 2008
3D printer to make model parts
Posted by ketchupman on Wednesday, June 24, 2020 9:24 AM

Hi forum community, I could use some advice on what would be the best 3D printer to make parts with, I saw one that uses resin, but would rather get some advice before I decide. I don't want to spend alot either. 

Thank you,

mike

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by 195X on Wednesday, June 24, 2020 12:01 PM

The resin style uses a laser much like those UV glue pens. The extrusion style does not yet give as smooth of a print as the gel/resin style. What very little I know of them, I plan on eventually getting a gel printer. 

My favorite color is clear. I am also ambidexterous, I can screw up equally well with either hand. I am 53 years old and been building for most of that time. :)

On the bench... somewhere. Pink Panther show car, 1978 Dodge Magnum Charger Daytona Midnight edition SE 300. Mongrel T.

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Midwest
Posted by High octane on Friday, June 26, 2020 1:14 PM

Have you checked with Micro-Mark as I'm sure that they sell them?

High octane

  • Member since
    September 2011
Posted by BUGATTI FAN on Friday, June 26, 2020 2:11 PM

Before looking at a 3D Printer, have you any experience in 3D CAD (Computer Aided Design)? If you are looking at downloading already prepared STL files it is not such an issue. Starting from scratch at designing in 3D may be a different matter what with the steep learning curve and obtaining suitable 3D CAD program software that may be very expensive.

  • Member since
    November 2019
Posted by mrgts1 on Saturday, June 27, 2020 8:44 AM

ketchupman

Hi forum community, I could use some advice on what would be the best 3D printer to make parts with, I saw one that uses resin, but would rather get some advice before I decide. I don't want to spend alot either. 

Thank you,

mike

 

There are some reasonable resin MSLA printers on the market under 500 that give good results. Photon S, Epax x1 and such are all generic copies of each other pretty much. Most use the same resin there is some interchangability. (405nm light source so the resins run about the same range.) Price of the resins vary depending on properties. Anywhere from 30 us dollars a bottle to 100 a bottle. (500ml) Now there is some things that are different when it comes to sla and Msla printers. SLA uses a laser to affix the resin where a msla uses a screen that blacks out everything not being printed in layers. The msla tend to be cheaper than the sla printers. There is no GEL printers that I'm aware of. 

However, owning a printer is only part of the battle. There is a lot to learn as far as orientations that give you the best prints. Some things are wear items such as the screens on msla printers and the fep sheets. I've gotten a lot of use out of my Epax since I bought it so it's not a replace it all the time thing, but it can be an added expense.

 Also having knowledge of solid modeling. You must have a program and the ability to model the parts you want to 3d print. There is also people you can pay to do the modeling for you. And with owning a 3d printer comes the steep learning curve. It can get expensive at first. also somewhat messy if your not carefull. However the sla/msla printers in my opinion give the user the best results in my opinion. You will have to post clean and cure your parts after printed so IPA, gloves, parper towels, compressed air, and a secondary uv light source will be required.

Fdm printers use a filiment, think cnc hot glue gun with a roll of plastic. It has its uses and in many ways the prints can be stronger because it fuses the material with heat instead of uv light. Resin tends to be brittle. The technology has gotten better with FDM printers so the layer lines are not as bad as they were, but they are still present. Also fdm tends to not have the capbilty to capture the fin details as well as resin printers.

Fact of the matter is, there is still work to be done after printing no matter which route you go. and with either one you must have knowledge of solid modeling should you want to do it yourself. If you have some one do it for  you, then you are only going to get the parts as good as they build them for you. 

When 3d printing, the skys the limit, and the technology is getting better all the time! But be prepared to put in work. There is no magic button and voila, printed parts. I have about a year with mine now and I still have problems on occasion with some things. And it's taken me years to get to where I am with my solid modeling before hand. 

Hope this helps,

Paul

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Canberra, Australia
Posted by aussiemuscle308 on Saturday, June 27, 2020 7:06 PM

I've got a FDM printer using PLA plastic filament. it's good for bigger items and figures 1/12 scale, but not really very good for the modeling i wanted it for, like engines and detail pieces. I've been using it for wheels and bodies mostly. I'd prefer to move to a Resin SLA printer for better detail.

This is my 1/24 scale Mazda 1500 that i designed in 3d studio max and printed out. there are no scale models of it at all, especially not in 1/25 scale.

 DSCF8643 by aus_mus, on Flickr

This is a 2018 Toyota Tundra. chassis, interior and wheels are from a Aoshima Hilux kit.

 DSCF8637 by aus_mus, on Flickr

corrected rims for AMT F&F3 Mustang

 DSCF8239 by aus_mus, on Flickr

My Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/87459383@N07/albums

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Canberra, Australia
Posted by aussiemuscle308 on Saturday, June 27, 2020 7:09 PM

Parts need a lot of clean up, but i was able to print parts as small as steering wheels

 DSCF8278 by aus_mus, on Flickr

 DSCF8288 by aus_mus, on Flickr

 DSCF8303 by aus_mus, on Flickr

 

My Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/87459383@N07/albums

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